Hello,
It's now time to install the ceiling and floor moldings in the renovated and wallpapered kitchen (about 20 sqm). The question is how to proceed? Should you rent a nail gun? Should you buy pre-painted moldings to glue them up even though we've already wallpapered? Should you perhaps nail by hand? Maybe you should install something like this on the ceiling: https://www.byggmax.se/inredning/stuckaturer/taklist/taklist-axxent-cx107-vit-p662260
For cutting, I guess a manual miter box is sufficient?
It's now time to install the ceiling and floor moldings in the renovated and wallpapered kitchen (about 20 sqm). The question is how to proceed? Should you rent a nail gun? Should you buy pre-painted moldings to glue them up even though we've already wallpapered? Should you perhaps nail by hand? Maybe you should install something like this on the ceiling: https://www.byggmax.se/inredning/stuckaturer/taklist/taklist-axxent-cx107-vit-p662260
For cutting, I guess a manual miter box is sufficient?
1.4 mm brad nail and nailing by hand works fine. If your hammering skills are a bit rusty, first practice a little on test pieces. With the last hammer blow, the nail head should be flush with the molding surface without leaving a hammer mark.
Then go over with a bit of white lacquer paint and a tiny brush and dab on the nail heads. This isn’t something professionals typically do because it takes a very long time, but if done right, it becomes more invisible than with a nail gun.
It works with a manual miter box if you are slow and meticulously accurate, as long as there are only 45 and 90-degree angles.
Then go over with a bit of white lacquer paint and a tiny brush and dab on the nail heads. This isn’t something professionals typically do because it takes a very long time, but if done right, it becomes more invisible than with a nail gun.
It works with a manual miter box if you are slow and meticulously accurate, as long as there are only 45 and 90-degree angles.
Tried putting up a cove moulding today but somehow managed to cut it in the wrong direction despite thinking it through twice. Feels unprofessional and clumsy to say the least, but eventually I got a correctly cut piece in place.
What I notice, however, is that walls and ceilings are anything but straight, and the large long nails I used are actually coming loose from the wall (Dense solid studs, OSB, drywall) in some cases? Should I perhaps screw them in?
I need something really durable to seal with. Unfortunately, I have a bad experience with Latex as it doesn't seem to handle any movement at all? So what should I use to seal without messing up the wallpaper?
What I notice, however, is that walls and ceilings are anything but straight, and the large long nails I used are actually coming loose from the wall (Dense solid studs, OSB, drywall) in some cases? Should I perhaps screw them in?
I need something really durable to seal with. Unfortunately, I have a bad experience with Latex as it doesn't seem to handle any movement at all? So what should I use to seal without messing up the wallpaper?
Coving is preferably coped with uneven walls; previously, it was called "cutting together" regarding inside corners. One piece is cut straight and placed into the corner. The other is cut at a 45-degree angle and then coped with, for example, a jigsaw, which means cutting away the 45-degree surface. The profile should then fit against the piece that was set up straight cut. Choose straight or coped placement depending on how the corner is viewed, i.e., the least visible side. It takes a few tries to find the technique and how to cut.
Aha? Are crown moldings especially troublesome to fit together in corners? So, if I cut the other piece at 45 degrees as well, they likely won’t fit together? I thought you had to assume they wouldn't fit perfectly and use some caulk to compensate instead?AndersS said:
If the angle is less than 90 degrees (i.e., the house is crooked), can't you just file the moldings slightly with a mouse sander or similar to make them right? Or do you have to go all out and sell the place?
Depending on the profile of the molding and its protrusion towards the ceiling, if you have an angle greater than 90 degrees, there will be a large gap at the edge towards the ceiling since the molding has a protrusion of about 3 cm (slightly depending on the model). There are many ways to solve this, but if you learn to profile cut one of the moldings in the corner, you don't have to worry about the angle, whether more or less than 90 degrees in the corner, it will fit. And sometimes you can plane or sand parts to achieve a good fit. It is part of fine woodworking to learn how to work wood to achieve a good fit, or alternatively, you use filler/sealant to hide poor fit. Both work in their own way, and the main thing is that you are satisfied.
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 322 posts
Foam plastic strip and double-sided tape 
It takes some practice to get the trim looking nice in old houses where no angles are straight. But it turns out really well when you finally succeed with much effort and great trouble. Just keep at it, you'll learn along the way. And yes, it's incredibly easy to mistakenly reverse the trim in the miter box, even though you try hard to think correctly...
As an alternative to latex caulk, you can use regular linseed oil putty (for windows). However, it's advantageous if you prime the end first with linseed oil paint, alkyd oil paint, or shellac, so that the oil in the putty isn't drawn out.
We used it when we built mirrored walls and needed to tidy up my amateurish joints. It turned out well and has held up for 5 years now without any cracks. (Covered with linseed oil paint.)
As an alternative to latex caulk, you can use regular linseed oil putty (for windows). However, it's advantageous if you prime the end first with linseed oil paint, alkyd oil paint, or shellac, so that the oil in the putty isn't drawn out.
We used it when we built mirrored walls and needed to tidy up my amateurish joints. It turned out well and has held up for 5 years now without any cracks. (Covered with linseed oil paint.)
Got the moldings in place but they differed quite a bit in the corners, I must say, in some cases up to 5 mm. Filled in with white Tec7, which I hope will hold together without forming cracks.
Hope it's easier to put together the casings and baseboards which is the next step.
Hope it's easier to put together the casings and baseboards which is the next step.
I have now installed a trim and must say it's really not easy to hammer in the little nails without straying off target. I accidentally damaged the trim in two places. I haven't decided yet whether to fill it or just replace the trim.
Anyway, what are my options? Could one screw the trim and baseboards in place instead? Or should I consider buying an electric nail gun? Could 3000 SEK be enough for something reasonable?
Anyway, what are my options? Could one screw the trim and baseboards in place instead? Or should I consider buying an electric nail gun? Could 3000 SEK be enough for something reasonable?
An air-powered nail gun doesn't cost many 100s but does require a compressor
The cheapest ones can leave ugly marks on the moldings
I don't think there are usually any problems with nailing normally, when you have about 5mm, use a nail set
The cheapest ones can leave ugly marks on the moldings
I don't think there are usually any problems with nailing normally, when you have about 5mm, use a nail set
For spackling in the corner, I usually use old credit cards. They have just the right flexibility, and if you want, you can cut them to the correct profile.
Regarding sealing against wallpaper, you have a dilemma since you have to do things in the wrong order. Sealing against wallpaper is difficult if you are not experienced, and how difficult depends a little on the wallpaper and sealant. A latex sealant is the most common, but it's used before painting/wallpapering, and it's not meant to be a finished surface product. Another type is construction sealant or silicone in the desired color, but I advise you to practice on spots that are not visible before you start. You only have one chance. Have a spray bottle with water and a little bit of soap that you spray gently onto the seal, then wipe off with a finger or sealant tool. It is best if you have wallpaper where you can mask first, where the masking tape does not stick too hard to the wallpaper.
I have the following set where I used the second smallest (4x10x175):nino said:
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Verktyg/Ha...-Brytjarn/Dornhuggmejselsats-6-st-2000024015/
Once I missed the nail and made a mark on the frame's edge, and a couple of times the punch slipped, one of these times making a rather ugly hole beside the nail.
Some things can be fixed with filler, but it also means I have to paint everything, which wasn't the plan right now.
When you watch instructions where they use a nail gun, it looks easy and quick.
In my case, I have quite a few moldings to put up (renovated the whole kitchen), and we have more rooms that need new moldings, so I can definitely see myself spending some money on something that both simplifies and makes it look nicer.
I've heard about compressors before, almost bought a small one, but never did due to the noise level.
What might the price be today if you buy a good nail gun and a compressor that can handle molding nails without any problems?
Otherwise, I've seen that there are both gas-powered and electric versions. Ryobi has one for 2400 kr and another for 3400 kr, but I have no idea if they're sufficient. There are quite a few available secondhand too, but since I've never used such a machine, it's hard to know if it's working properly or not.