Hello,
I am currently renovating an old wall at home. It was plastered previously, but now it is bare and consists only of heavy wooden beams.
The beams are very uneven, so I have glued up two parallel leveling strips. I want to plaster the wall and then mount a wooden board and drywall in front.
The wall is too uneven to mount the wooden board directly, so I thought the best thing is to level it with plaster or something similar first.
Questions:
* Is plastering the best solution?
* What type of plaster should be used?
* Do I need to put up a plaster mesh first?
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
/Anders
I am currently renovating an old wall at home. It was plastered previously, but now it is bare and consists only of heavy wooden beams.
The beams are very uneven, so I have glued up two parallel leveling strips. I want to plaster the wall and then mount a wooden board and drywall in front.
The wall is too uneven to mount the wooden board directly, so I thought the best thing is to level it with plaster or something similar first.
Questions:
* Is plastering the best solution?
* What type of plaster should be used?
* Do I need to put up a plaster mesh first?
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
/Anders
I would have set up furring strips and leveled them instead and attached the board to them. But if you really want to plaster, then you need to use mesh, prime with B-mortar, and then plaster with C.
you want to polish and then put a wooden board and plaster on this??
I think you should put studs and then a wooden board and plaster
I think you should put studs and then a wooden board and plaster
Hello,
Let me clarify a bit
Normally, I would of course frame as usual, but it's not possible in this case...
I depend on a certain distance. The parallel "studs" are 1.5 cm thick and cannot be thicker. They are just the right distance (+wood board+gypsum board) from the wall on the other side.
Between these "studs" are underlying wooden beams like pick-up sticks. The distance varies between 5 cm and 0.5 cm from the intended "plaster line."
The reason I want to plaster (or fill with something else) is to have a backing for the boards.
Best regards,
/Anders
Let me clarify a bit
Normally, I would of course frame as usual, but it's not possible in this case...
I depend on a certain distance. The parallel "studs" are 1.5 cm thick and cannot be thicker. They are just the right distance (+wood board+gypsum board) from the wall on the other side.
Between these "studs" are underlying wooden beams like pick-up sticks. The distance varies between 5 cm and 0.5 cm from the intended "plaster line."
The reason I want to plaster (or fill with something else) is to have a backing for the boards.
Best regards,
/Anders
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 046 posts
It is possible to level up no matter how uneven it is. Shim in between or cut with a jigsaw. OSB or plywood and screw directly into the plank wall.
Protte
Protte
Exactly. It's quite a bit of fiddling to get it straight, so a long level and a good straightedge are a must. But plastering indoors is really hard unless you're really skilled. And how will you attach the wooden board to the plaster, glue it?prototypen said:
I might try to puzzle a bit with boards...
My thought was to screw the OSB up against the plaster. The plaster would serve as a substrate for the OSB. The screw itself attaches to the wooden beams behind the plaster.
My thought was to screw the OSB up against the plaster. The plaster would serve as a substrate for the OSB. The screw itself attaches to the wooden beams behind the plaster.
Indoors and plaster with b- and c-mortar on wooden substrate? Well, I would at most have used hydraulic lime mortar, preferably clay plaster. On some type of mesh.
My house, built in 1907 with a stump under the foundation in one corner, is therefore crooked in all directions. I've straightened some parts in connection with renovations and rebuilds. There's a fairly simple technique to "template" the walls and cut the studs to make the walls straight. All you need is a good jigsaw and regular 45mm studs (and a level and a long straightedge/straight board). As I mentioned, it's a bit of work to get it completely flat, but probably easier than trying to plaster/smooth the wall flat...
If you're interested in a description, let me know and I'll try to explain. It will probably be quite a bit of text, so I don't want to write "unnecessarily"....
If you're interested in a description, let me know and I'll try to explain. It will probably be quite a bit of text, so I don't want to write "unnecessarily"....
andersw said:
Functionally, one can simply say they vary in hardness in a descending scale B, C, Kalk, Ler. This also means they "flex" differently without cracking in the opposite scale, i.e., ler mortar flexes the most without cracking. As is well known, wood moves all the time, and then ler mortar can follow the movement more without cracking compared to harder mortar.
Perhaps not at all what you had in mind, but I'm writing anyway. We had problems with very uneven walls, so we installed OSB and then plasterboard and applied gypsum plaster on these.
Very easy to work with! However, it flakes, so you have to paint.
I put a paper strip between the boards (heard that it would make it more stable) and we don't have a single crack. In total, we have about 110 m2 of gypsum plastered surface.
Very easy to work with! However, it flakes, so you have to paint.
I put a paper strip between the boards (heard that it would make it more stable) and we don't have a single crack. In total, we have about 110 m2 of gypsum plastered surface.