If you build a wall and place horizontal 45x45 for electrical routing space and then put drywall on it, how will it be with the joints between the drywall sheets? Do you need a batten behind or is it enough to just spackle the joints with tape?
Yes, you need to put something behind the joints, otherwise it will flex. You can use T-profiler if you don't want to compress the insulation. If you're going to use double gypsum or OSB and gypsum, you don't need to put anything in the joints as long as you stagger the joints.
Just as Matti wrote.
And an addition. As mentioned, you can set profiles, you can also use short 45x45, and it's possible to think of other tricks as well, such as embedding standing 70x21 or strips of 15mm plywood.
But the bottom line is that from a cost and/or labor perspective, it usually makes the most sense to install OSB+gypsum or double gypsum directly. (And I would choose OSB+gypsum any day of the week).
The only exception is if those extra 11mm can't be lost.
edit:
Is it an interior wall? If so, I wouldn't cross-brace at all.
And an addition. As mentioned, you can set profiles, you can also use short 45x45, and it's possible to think of other tricks as well, such as embedding standing 70x21 or strips of 15mm plywood.
But the bottom line is that from a cost and/or labor perspective, it usually makes the most sense to install OSB+gypsum or double gypsum directly. (And I would choose OSB+gypsum any day of the week).
The only exception is if those extra 11mm can't be lost.
edit:
Is it an interior wall? If so, I wouldn't cross-brace at all.
Ok, thanks for all the great answers. The reason I don't want OSB is the cost. The steel T-profile seems to be a good solution. What do you think about also placing the drywall horizontally to get the fewest number of vertical seams?
I think that sounds good.Stolpskott said:
Just remember to put the first horizontal stud at about 55cm height and the next one at 115, so the beveled edge of the drywall isn't down by the floor, which would complicate things. It's hard to plaster well there.
If you want a maximum or exact 240 ceiling height, you can instead split a drywall sheet lengthwise, placing the cut edge at the bottom and top. And plaster two seams along the wall instead.
And hey, calculate the cost of the T-profiles compared to an extra layer of drywall or OSB. It might not differ that much.
You still have to reinforce the vertical joints. Then you have to use a gypsum board that has all four edges tapered to get a good result. That board is more expensive than standard gypsum.Stolpskott said:
