I need to replace a few standing studs and a portion of the sill after an old water damage in the wall. I think it's appropriate to remove a maximum of two standing studs at a time and the corresponding part of the sill. There has been a lot written on the forum about sill replacement in old 70s houses, but I wish for a picture of how to support/prop when removing a sill or standing studs. I've seen steel props on constructions with a screw that presses up. But you can't set a prop on the sill you're going to remove, and you can't place it next to it, a bit slanted, right? Is there any other type of prop than the ones I've seen, that can stand next to the wall? Anyone have a picture?
The sill is on the foundation and the joists on it, but what about your studs, where are they, if you upload a photo of how it looks, a response will probably be more relevant, how does it look underneath, is it a basement, crawl space, etc.
Aah, missed to mention it's a sill on a concrete slab. I also want to replace some of the standing studs, so my wall will be open without drywall. But I haven't opened the wall yet so I can't take a photo. However, I know it needs to be replaced 
It's a conventional wall with a sill and standing studs.
Of course, it's possible to place the brace between the sill and the horizontal top plate in two places about 1 meter apart, and then cut the sill just beside the braces and remove two standing studs. But then you don’t get much support in the middle.
It's a conventional wall with a sill and standing studs.
Of course, it's possible to place the brace between the sill and the horizontal top plate in two places about 1 meter apart, and then cut the sill just beside the braces and remove two standing studs. But then you don’t get much support in the middle.
Have seen such work and been involved, then crosspieces have been placed on the outside and inside in fresh pieces and lifted slightly with a jack, it doesn't take much space underneath to remove a sill, but it usually helps to have nails that hold it in place. I think you should check with some construction companies to see what's best and have it assessed on site, it's not something a layman does; the floor joist is higher than the sill so there will also be work there.
I have built both exterior walls, floor joists for a villa, and constructed a complete garage in loose timber including roof trusses, so I can probably handle this myself. However, I'm still interested in the typical approach as this seems to be a standard operation on some 70s villas. In my case, it's not due to damp sills from the slab, but rather a roof leak that caused water to run down the wall.
The wall stands on a concrete slab and the floor is not raised. Vinyl flooring directly on the concrete. Studs on the inside/outside + a jack works well if you only need to replace the sill. But maybe it works fine to replace one standing stud at a time and screw the new one to the cross stud before removing the next one. I hope it’s a maximum of three standing studs that need to be replaced due to mold.
Perhaps it's better to do it in two steps, of course. First, prop on the sill right next to the standing stud that needs to be replaced. After the standing studs have been replaced, screw a horizontal stud on the side that you lift and replace the sill. (or reverse order)
The wall stands on a concrete slab and the floor is not raised. Vinyl flooring directly on the concrete. Studs on the inside/outside + a jack works well if you only need to replace the sill. But maybe it works fine to replace one standing stud at a time and screw the new one to the cross stud before removing the next one. I hope it’s a maximum of three standing studs that need to be replaced due to mold.
Perhaps it's better to do it in two steps, of course. First, prop on the sill right next to the standing stud that needs to be replaced. After the standing studs have been replaced, screw a horizontal stud on the side that you lift and replace the sill. (or reverse order)
Good with info, you don't have your thumb in your hand as it's called, as you say it may have to be done in several steps, and it probably needs to be seen on-site to determine the sequence, you have a bare concrete floor, maybe it can be lifted a bit with a screw jack against a rough plank on the inside (against the roof structure) so the whole wall lifts on that side depends on whether the sill and the wall are joined with a joint in the slab
