Paper strip bubbles despite wet room glue!

[Dr Benz]

Like the emperor's new clothes...
No one dares to say that paper strips don't have such superior properties at all (especially regarding installation, which many have problems with).
Fiberglass

If it moves straight up/more right/left then fiberglass works just as well. But don't say that the skew works just as well.

Still, maybe it's good enough.
Anyway, it's super easy to glue the paper strip, so I'm not going back to the fiberglass strip.

 

[AG A]

Like the emperor's new clothes...
No one dares to say that paper strips don't have such superior properties (especially when it comes to the installation that many have problems with).
Glass fiber

As said!
I still try, even though I will be shot.

Why complicate things with paper strips. It just takes unnecessary time and hassle. The fiberglass strips are already glued, and need no filler, or glue before installation. Many, especially amateurs, claim that paper is much better. But have you ever seen cracked fiberglass seams? It holds just as well. It's just a matter of preference if a painter uses one or the other.
I have worked as a painter for 15 years myself, and have almost exclusively used fiberglass.

 

[Dr Benz]

As I said!
I still try, even though I will be shot.

Why bother with paper strips? It just takes unnecessary time and hassle. The fiberglass strips are already glued and need no putty or glue before application. Many, mainly amateurs, claim that paper is much better. But have you ever seen cracked fiberglass joints? It holds just as well. It's just a matter of taste whether a painter uses one or the other.
I have worked as a painter for 15 years myself and have almost exclusively used fiberglass.

I'm not putting any value on good or bad.
However, isn't fiberglass thicker and thus harder to hide on the short joints?

 

[hempularen]

Like the emperor's new clothes...
No one dares to say that paper strips do not have such superior properties (especially not in terms of installation, which many have problems with).
Fiberglass

The manufacturers of plasterboards prescribe that paper tape should be used. Hopefully, there is relevant professional expertise there.

I joined plasterboards in two new rooms in the summer house during the winter. For the long joints, I used "glue putty." It worked well. But for the short joints, I wanted to glue so it wouldn't build up as much. I first filled in the "V grooves" in the joints, glued tape after it had dried. Let the glue dry before I putty over.

In the ceiling, I messed up on one joint. I didn't get enough putty outside the joint, so I mistakenly glued the tape next to the joint. This became apparent after priming. I had to sand off the putty and glue again. Now I was a bit impatient and puttied over immediately. The tape came loose as a consequence. Had to redo it, still a bit impatient, only let the glue dry for 3 hours, then puttied over. It came loose again.

In the end, I redid it, let the glue dry for 3 hours, painted over with primer, which was left to dry for 2 hours. Then putty. It held.

 

[AG A]

I don't put any value in good or bad.
However, fiberglass is probably thicker and therefore harder to hide on short joints?

Since you have to put filler under the paper strip, you could probably say it evens out. At least I have noticed that paper strips build up less than fiberglass.

 

[AG A]

The manufacturers of plasterboards prescribe that paper tape should be used. There, hopefully, lies the relevant expertise.

I two new rooms at the fitidshuset, I joined plasterboards during the winter. The long joints I did with "glue putty." It worked well. But for the short joints, I wanted to glue so it wouldn't build up as much. I first filled the "V grooves" in the joints, glued the tape after it dried. Let the glue dry before putting putty over it.

In the ceiling, I messed up on a seam. I had put too little putty outside the seam so I saw it wrong and glued the tape next to the seam. This showed after the primer painting. Had to sand off the putty and glue again. This time I was a bit impatient and put putty over directly. It backfired as the tape came loose. Had to redo it again, still a bit impatient, only let the glue dry for 3 hours, then I puttied over. It came loose again.

Finally, I redid it, let the glue dry for 3 hours, painted over with primer that dried for 2 hours. Then putty. It held.

That is probably more due to collaborations between manufacturers than one being better.

 

[pjkw]

The big question mark for me is why there are no paper strips available to buy with glue

 

[hempularen]

I actually believe it exists, someone told me that. But I haven't looked.

 

[hempularen]

That matter probably depends more on collaborations between manufacturers, than that one would be better.

If all drywall manufacturers specifically prescribe paper, and none prescribe fiberglass, then I think we can dismiss corruption/collaboration as a reason for why they prescribe paper tape.

Furthermore, I have never seen a professional painter use fiberglass tape.

 

[AG A]

If all drywall manufacturers prescribe only paper, and none prescribe fiberglass, I think we can rule out corruption/collusion as the reason why they prescribe paper strips.

Moreover, I've never seen a professional painter use fiberglass tape.

As someone who works in the industry, I've seen that about 50% of all painters use fiberglass.
Why drywall manufacturers write that (honestly, I haven't seen them write that) was just a guess.
Have you seen houses where everything had to be redone due to fiberglass tape?

 

[MagHam]

Dr Benz wrote "answer key" in #16
Fiberglass has no stability in the diagonal direction. Paper, on the other hand, can absorb a moderate amount of shear stress.
In an old house that has settled (like mine which is 75 years old), fiberglass works excellently. I haven't seen a single hairline crack in any wall or ceiling where I've renovated.
But in new construction, I can understand the desire to reduce all possible shear effects.

 

[datja]

I belong to those who have never succeeded with paper strips and therefore with joy and success used fiberglass strips. Even in new constructions. No cracks. A painter told me that he couldn't use fiberglass since he would then not be following the prescribed industry standard. But that's not something DIY enthusiasts need to think about.

 

[raveper]

One might wonder why there aren't more specialized adhesives and packaging specifically for paper strips.
I also used fiberglass before and haven't noticed any difference.

 

[AG A]

Dr Benz wrote "facit" in #16
Fiberglass has no stability in the diagonal direction. Paper, on the other hand, can absorb a moderate amount of shear stress.
In an old house that has settled (like mine which is 75 years old), fiberglass works excellently. I haven't seen a single hairline crack in any wall or ceiling where I've renovated.
But in new production, I can understand that you want to reduce any possible shear effects.

Neither paper nor fiberglass absorbs any stresses. Neither in height, width, or diagonally. It only functions as crack reinforcement. So that the filler doesn't crack as it dries.

 

[CrilleE]

Update since thread start!
Short version:
You're an idiot if you don't stir the wet room adhesive before you start.

Long version: Re-glued the strips that came loose, but there were still small bubbles. But good enough.
Made a new room and it was a disaster. Bubbles everywhere!
The scientist in me got to work and I test-glued using a bunch of different methods on a leftover drywall, such as:
1: Glue only on the board
2: Glue on board and strip
3: Glue five minutes before, then brush on again.
And so on...

The result was that half of the strips came off immediately. The rest when I put on putty.
Conclusion: Problem with the glue (half right anyway..?). I was annoyed that my glue is runny like water, very difficult to apply on the wall. So I googled for a more creamy glue..
Imagine my surprise when I check the online description of the glue I already bought, and it says:
Consistency: Creamy.
And:
Dilution: Stir before use and can, if needed, be diluted with water.
WTF? It's already water?

Wait, wait now..? Mine isn't creamy at all, and stir before use?
Stir...
Stir the glue and it becomes creamy. Glue a strip. Sticks like a rock already an hour after gluing.

Conclusion: idiot...

Attached is a picture of various methods to glue wrongly.