4,065 views ·
39 replies
4k views
39 replies
Boiler room to become 3 rooms
Don't you think it will be cold to be in? If I remember correctly, you planned to have a bedroom there, right? An uninsulated concrete slab cools a lot in my opinion (I'm working on insulating my floor)huch said:
Good tip. However, we already have three bedrooms on the same floor with the same flooring. And it works well without being too cold 👍Viktor.J said:
It will be an open question for the future 😊
Do you have sutteräng? Or a regular basement? I haven't thought in those terms as it's not cold. I have 22 degrees throughout the house, maybe that helps. I should be happy as long as it doesn't bother the partner 😊Viktor.J said:
It's a split level, warmest where it's underground since I have 20cm isodrän outside. But the floor slab gets really damn cold. Temp at about 18 degrees if I have 22 degrees upstairs but feels colder since the floor cools so much.huch said:
But anyway, good that it's not a problem for you 👍🏻 just keep going according to plan 👍🏻
If you're going to have a wood boiler and an accumulator tank. The values have a way of changing whether we want them to or not, so it's good to be prepared for changes.huch said:
If the electricity price becomes high and unstable over a long period, the combination of a heat pump and wood boiler is ideal. Then you run the heat pump from April to October when electricity is cheaper, and use wood from November to March when there is an electricity shortage.
No one knows how it will be, but it's good to have the ability to handle changes when they come.
Snark, at what electricity prices does a ground source heat pump become more expensive than a wood boiler?H heimlaga said:If you are going to install a wood boiler and accumulator tank. Values tend to change whether we want them to or not, and therefore it is good to be prepared for changes.
If electricity prices are high and unstable for a long time, the combination of a heat pump and a wood boiler is ideal. You use the heat pump from April to October when electricity is cheaper, and wood from November to March when there is an electricity shortage.
No one knows how it will be, but it is good to have the ability to handle changes when they come.
Ok if it gets that bad, I'll tear down the walls again thanks for the tips 😊👍H heimlaga said:If you are going to have a wood boiler and accumulator tank. Values tend to change whether we want it or not, and therefore it is good to be prepared for changes.
If electricity prices become high and unstable for a long time, the combination of a heat pump and wood boiler is ideal. Then you use the heat pump from April to October when electricity is cheaper and wood from November to March when there is an electricity shortage.
No one knows how it will be, but it is good to have the ability to handle changes when they come.
Today's job was to spray two rounds of bleach on the walls, 1 part bleach to 4 parts water in the mixture.
No mold left now, before painting.
Now it has to dry.
Tomorrow all damages will be fixed with husfix.
And by the weekend everything will be painted.
Then I think the boiler room will be okay to sleep in, apart from it being a boiler room with a ground source heat pump 😊. Time then for the next step to put up interior walls, etc.
No mold left now, before painting.
Now it has to dry.
Tomorrow all damages will be fixed with husfix.
And by the weekend everything will be painted.
Then I think the boiler room will be okay to sleep in, apart from it being a boiler room with a ground source heat pump 😊. Time then for the next step to put up interior walls, etc.
Question, the ceiling that's going to stay is framed and insulated with styrofoam. Due to fire risk and spread, I'm considering the following:
I first thought about building walls with studs attached to the ceiling, but then the styrofoam would run through several rooms, so now I'm thinking of cutting/opening up a channel in the framed ceiling and attaching the studs to the floor joist, essentially letting the new wall divide the styrofoam between the rooms. Hope I'm explaining this clearly.
I'm also considering using metal studs in the ceiling and floor and wooden studs for the rest. This way, a metal stud would divide the styrofoam for each room.
Any opinions?
I first thought about building walls with studs attached to the ceiling, but then the styrofoam would run through several rooms, so now I'm thinking of cutting/opening up a channel in the framed ceiling and attaching the studs to the floor joist, essentially letting the new wall divide the styrofoam between the rooms. Hope I'm explaining this clearly.
I'm also considering using metal studs in the ceiling and floor and wooden studs for the rest. This way, a metal stud would divide the styrofoam for each room.
Any opinions?