Thank you for all the answers!!!
We ultimately chose 17 mm råspont, it felt the most solid and "natural".
We ultimately chose 17 mm råspont, it felt the most solid and "natural".
For me, it was a mixed bag... Tongue and groove in the extended parts (frame structure) and OSB placed over the trätex-covered plank walls before the plasterboard was applied.
In the bathroom, I skip all wood and use double plasterboard.
Huh, how am I supposed to remember how my walls are constructed in a few years???
JoGi
In the bathroom, I skip all wood and use double plasterboard.
Huh, how am I supposed to remember how my walls are constructed in a few years???
JoGi
The rough paneling was spaced properly for screwing plywood and gypsum. If you don't screw it tightly enough, it will eventually "sag" over time. A gypsum board does weigh quite a bit (12-14 kg).Greger_Wik said:
If you install the plastic and then screw the gypsum directly, you'll perforate it to the point where it's hardly effective.
Sure, you can use chipboard, but it is significantly more difficult to work with and harder to achieve a good finish. In my opinion, chipboard belongs in unheated spaces like storage rooms.
Two boards make for a more stable and heavier - and thus a quieter - construction.
Additionally, there's also the fire protection aspect. A chipboard burns up immediately, while gypsum and OSB maintain well around EI45 or so.
I have a few questions regarding OSB:
how to mount? overlap?
I will have 2.5 meters ceiling height. The panels are 2440 mm. How can I do it then?
according to the installation instructions, the following should be considered:
1. "mount with the long edges at a right angle to the support
2. "panel edges should be mounted with support, at least 20 mm onto the studs"
what is meant by 1 and 2?
Other mounting considerations?
Mats
how to mount? overlap?
I will have 2.5 meters ceiling height. The panels are 2440 mm. How can I do it then?
according to the installation instructions, the following should be considered:
1. "mount with the long edges at a right angle to the support
2. "panel edges should be mounted with support, at least 20 mm onto the studs"
what is meant by 1 and 2?
Other mounting considerations?
Mats
This means that you frame your wall at c 600 if you have the 1200 board or c 450 if you have the 900 board.
Then you screw the board standing into these studs. Since the stud is 45 mm wide, you get no less than 20 mm of support (backing).
It doesn't matter if it's too short. Cut off 60 mm from the next board and screw it above so that it becomes tight. Then use what is left of your second board and push it against the previous one so they lie together (right angle in support, that is). You will then have a slightly larger gap against the ceiling, which you fill with a piece from the next board and so on. (Continuous joint).
In this way, you get the most out of your purchased boards.
The boards are screwed or nailed into all three studs that they are against.
Then you screw the board standing into these studs. Since the stud is 45 mm wide, you get no less than 20 mm of support (backing).
It doesn't matter if it's too short. Cut off 60 mm from the next board and screw it above so that it becomes tight. Then use what is left of your second board and push it against the previous one so they lie together (right angle in support, that is). You will then have a slightly larger gap against the ceiling, which you fill with a piece from the next board and so on. (Continuous joint).
In this way, you get the most out of your purchased boards.
The boards are screwed or nailed into all three studs that they are against.
So true, so true.
Look at a construction site, notice how much the "first layer" actually covers and how many screws are in the boards...
If you're going to nail the ceiling molding, it might obviously be good to have coverage upwards... and the baseboard fits well down there...
Look at a construction site, notice how much the "first layer" actually covers and how many screws are in the boards...
If you're going to nail the ceiling molding, it might obviously be good to have coverage upwards... and the baseboard fits well down there...
We have a ceiling height of 250 cm on the ground floor and have used OSB + plasterboard.
A continuous seam was never an option when there is only a 3 cm difference. The cornice and skirting boards attach well to what is behind the plasterboard.
On the upper floor, however, we have walls that are up to 290 cm. There, we jointed the OSB with a nogging behind, it felt the most stable. It's possible that it would have worked since the plasterboard flattens and stiffens, but the first option still felt best.
A continuous seam was never an option when there is only a 3 cm difference. The cornice and skirting boards attach well to what is behind the plasterboard.
On the upper floor, however, we have walls that are up to 290 cm. There, we jointed the OSB with a nogging behind, it felt the most stable. It's possible that it would have worked since the plasterboard flattens and stiffens, but the first option still felt best.
Choose the right plywood, if you pull a bit too much on the osb board, the screw spins, then the alternative is to drill and molly, but in your case, I would undoubtedly choose råspont...it's unbelievable that the construction company included this in their quote...
I hope it will be RÅSPONT...
I hope it will be RÅSPONT...
Want to revive this thread again ;D
Does anyone know how it is with chipboard instead, 12mm, then 13mm drywall on that. (but not in the bathroom, there it will be double drywall). The chipboard is so much cheaper (about 60:-/each) than OSB (about 160:-/each), plywood (about 160:-/each) and tongue and groove boards (about 4:-/lpm), Byggmax prices.
Or is it "you-get-what-you-pay-for"?
Does anyone know how it is with chipboard instead, 12mm, then 13mm drywall on that. (but not in the bathroom, there it will be double drywall). The chipboard is so much cheaper (about 60:-/each) than OSB (about 160:-/each), plywood (about 160:-/each) and tongue and groove boards (about 4:-/lpm), Byggmax prices.
Or is it "you-get-what-you-pay-for"?
The chipboard is, as Öh... the builder said, worse for attaching things.
In addition, I consider it significantly more cumbersome to work with. Heavier and sharper boards that produce significantly more dust during handling.
I don't know about the environmental aspects, but it feels like there is more glue in chipboards than in plywood and/or OSB.
I only use chipboard for flooring. If I have to.
In addition, I consider it significantly more cumbersome to work with. Heavier and sharper boards that produce significantly more dust during handling.
I don't know about the environmental aspects, but it feels like there is more glue in chipboards than in plywood and/or OSB.
I only use chipboard for flooring. If I have to.