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Yes, absolutely!

On the other hand, there are facade drawings etc., as well as a description of the roof that I can bring up. Large parts of the roof can/should be torn up so I can probably document quite a bit.

I'm going home now to redo the sketch according to your instructions.

Did you manage to agree on which beam is needed?

Best regards
 
I would feel safe with an IPE270 provided you brace the flange along the entire length of the beam. How about you, Justus?
 
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How much deflection does an IPE270 give? Had contact with a few sliding door manufacturers during the day and they state max deflection 5-16 mm.
 
10mm
 
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Hmm okay! Then I will make the sketch based on an IPE300, I don't want to lock in the choice of supplier.

The posts from the side shouldn't be directly against the beam if it needs to have some room to move a bit lengthwise, right?
 
By the way, do you have to bring in a contractor? If you compile all the sketches you've made and create a to-scale drawing, shouldn't you be able to get a building permit anyway? If you trust the results you've obtained
 
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Don't say that, I get lots of ideas :)

Maybe, we'll just see how long you can put up with my questions......if so, I would like to learn the actual calculation. I have the formula but I got stuck on how to derive certain values.
 
I also think that IPE 270 is OK if the margin to the sliding door frame is sufficiently large. Bosse's remark about bracing is important.
 
D Derbyboy said:
Hmm ok! Then I'll make the sketch based on an IPE300, I don't want to lock in the choice of supplier.

The posts from the side should probably not be directly against the beam if it's supposed to have the ability to move a little lengthwise?
IPE300 provides 7mm for snow load
 
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But if the supplier says that the maximum deflection should be 10 mm and then recommends a distance of 10 mm around the entire frame, then the construction itself can handle 0 mm deflection.

This means that I only really need to adjust the distance to the deflection.

Example.

A beam gives a deflection of 20 mm, then I ensure that the space between the frame and the beam is 20 mm. Why do they even have recommendations?
 
I have never set such large batches, but I assume that the frame is also screwed upwards? If so, the frame is affected when the beam bends down.
 
The most common solution is probably a glulam beam above such a long sliding door section, and it's natural to attach the frame to the glulam. The longest section I have experience with is about 4 meters, but the large roof loads were not supported by the facade. You should thoroughly read the manufacturers' instructions, but I remember that the frames allow for some play.
 
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It feels like the manufacturers should have accounted for some sagging.

Maybe you could skip screwing the frame upwards and instead use some sealant or block.

Imagine having a gigantic double-sided tape
 
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An IPE 330, what deflection does it provide?
 
I just looked at WillabGardens folding door set WG 95 which can be delivered up to 5 meters long. The frame is screwed around with c/c 600 mm and 100 mm from the corners. Between the frame (extruded aluminum) and the surrounding studs, there is a rubber seal. See image.
Cross-section diagram of door frame top installation with extrusion details, showing aluminum frame and surrounding rubber seal.
I suspect that the manufacturers you're looking at have more robust materials, but they surely have many installation examples.

With an IPE 270, the seasonal variation in deflection becomes 10 mm, which corresponds to L/600. I consider that a serious manufacturer should be able to handle that.

IPE 330 provides 5 mm for snow load.
 
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