Thanks for the reply, then maybe it will be a hybrid between adding a wall and another beam with screw-glued plywood on the sides between the new and old beam.J justusandersson said:
If it was enough to screw-glue k-plywood on the 50x50 rule. Would it be sufficient to place a 45x90 as an additional beam, or should a thicker dimension be added? I'm thinking perhaps a glulam of 45x90 in that case...
Okay, @justusandersson, now on New Year's Eve I've done a little more digging and removed the decor in front of the beam so I can see how it actually looks. I was a bit shocked here...
Under the decor, there's a 95x95 timber, which doesn't look particularly new. Neither the nails nor the timber... However, it's in good condition.
So if I'm interpreting this correctly, it seems there’s a 95x95 timber at the bottom, then something like 45x-something or 50x-something going up to the wall plate connecting to the studs on the upper floor.
This can't be good, right?
From the floor in the kitchen to the beam, it's 2.48 meters, so I have no problem putting in a sturdy timber under this 95x95 beam...
Should I go for a 95x230 glulam beam or can I get away with something smaller?
Or does it matter if it's 45x or 95x?
Under the decor, there's a 95x95 timber, which doesn't look particularly new. Neither the nails nor the timber... However, it's in good condition.
So if I'm interpreting this correctly, it seems there’s a 95x95 timber at the bottom, then something like 45x-something or 50x-something going up to the wall plate connecting to the studs on the upper floor.
This can't be good, right?
From the floor in the kitchen to the beam, it's 2.48 meters, so I have no problem putting in a sturdy timber under this 95x95 beam...
Should I go for a 95x230 glulam beam or can I get away with something smaller?
Or does it matter if it's 45x or 95x?
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If you can get a glulam beam 90x225 that would be great. 90x180 is OK too. I don't think 95x230 is a standard dimension when it comes to glulam.
@justusandersson checked in on the thread a few times, how about if the ts used something like 10mm construction screws to join these 3 beams together for greater cooperation.
It surely has an effect, the question is just how big? It will behave like old-fashioned leaf springs. I try to stick to advice that I can stand by, it doesn't have to exclude other solutions.
A glulam beam of 90x225 is no problem to fit in. Then it aligns pretty well with another opening that approximately will have the same height in this case.J justusandersson said:
I think it's quite a common problem to try to find a calculable solution. Sometimes it leads to contrived situations.
I will purchase a glulam beam this week. But now comes the next question… In the basement there is a wall where the old wall stood that is now replaced. Right where the current post for replacement stands, a basement door begins in the basement. According to the drawings, the previous wall stood here and the door between the rooms in the kitchen was at the other end of the kitchen, so the doors in the basement and in the kitchen are not in the same place. Can I still place a post next to the current replacement post without it being too heavy for the floor? (Here it seems to have been a plank wall previously) We are talking about a 15 cm thick concrete slab at the bottom which then has wooden joists on top. I don't know exactly how it looks.J justusandersson said:
It's a bit unclear if the wall in the basement is load-bearing since it doesn't feel as robust as other load-bearing walls in the basement that are brick-built. It’s at least not as thick as the other load-bearing walls.
Update: The basement wall is very thin compared to other walls in the basement that I know are load-bearing. We're talking door frame thickness for that wall. Load-bearing walls in the basement are 21 cm, while this wall is 11 cm thick. It also sounds somewhat hollow.
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We updated the thread by eventually installing a 90x270 glued laminated beam under the 95x95 beam and replaced the existing posts supporting the old beam with shorter ones so we could insert the glued laminated beam. Of course, with the roof propped up. It went excellently since we have such high ceilings and the room upstairs completely stopped wobbling. In the room above, we also used screw-glued chipboard flooring, which also helps against wobble. 😊 It became very stable. 😊
It probably further helped that we replaced the sawdust mixed with light concrete crush that was in the joists and weighed about half a ton with more modern insulation that weighed only a fraction of the previous one.
It probably further helped that we replaced the sawdust mixed with light concrete crush that was in the joists and weighed about half a ton with more modern insulation that weighed only a fraction of the previous one.