We have the same problem with our barlinek, it's as if it sits a few mm above the subfloor and springs down when you walk on it.

My theory is that the boards are cupping and then in combination, the floor lifts.
 
P Peter Petterson said:
Or a problem with the floor 🤷‍♀️.
I installed this exact light ash 3-strip Barlinek floor myself in May. The substrate is concrete, Platon mat (with ventilation "under," so-called mechanical ventilation floor), gray felt paper, the floor. About 18 sqm, a bedroom. The relative humidity has been around 60% since early August.

I don't have any good suggestions but can give my perspective. The floor lifted on one side during installation, but nothing that bothers right there. Pressed down with skirting board, now the floor has settled. Bed, piano, desk won over the tensions. Creaked a bit for a month, now only a bit of "settling noise" if I've been away for a while. No gaps on the short sides. But it's really not a "click-floor" as it's sold as. Took a lot of manual effort/rubber mallet to get it to click in properly. Glad I've laid a lot of floors and realized it early. Redid the first rows.

Laid another Barlinek parquet in the previous house, in the hallway/bedroom. Same type of "click." It still creaks a lot, but no gaps. On chipboard over the joist on the second floor, with some type of green "foam." I can imagine that it’s due to a slightly "bouncy" substrate, it probably moves a bit at the joints that creak. Maybe a bad floor, that the 3 strips creak or something.. But I'm not a fan of the click technique that the BuildingMax floors have. Good price, though, and nice.
 
L Lutte said:
We have the same problem with our barlinek, it's as if it lies a few mm above the subfloor and springs down when you walk on it.

My theory is that the boards are cupping and thus in collaboration, the floor lifts.
Have you tried taking it up with byggmax?
 
L Lutte said:
We have the same problem with our barlinek, it's as if it lies a few mm above the subfloor and springs down when you walk on it.

My theory is that the boards warp and then in interaction the floor lifts.
Exactly like that for the first few months! Special feeling, not quite like parquet! But it went away here (see previous post).
 
P Peter Petterson said:
Hello hello!!!

Installed new flooring on 3 levels in the house.
The carpenters have gone down to the joists, mounted new studs on the old ones to straighten the floor
Haven't they installed noggings along the walls? There should be support around the rooms and under the turns.
 
J Joak said:
Haven't they installed noggings along the walls? There should be support around the rooms and under the turns.
Hey!!

Please link to that info, No, there have been no supports/noggings installed. I asked about it, but was only told cc60 was required. I haven't been able to find what you're claiming either when I've searched :)

There was a requirement not to have 2 joints in the same bay when laying the floor chipboard, and I know they've been aware of and followed that.

Also, the minimum length of floor chipboard
 
P Peter Petterson said:
Hey!!

Please link to that info. No, there haven't been any supports around/short beams installed. I asked about it but was only told cc60 was required. I haven't been able to find what you're claiming when I've searched :)

Then there was a requirement not to have 2 joints in the same section when laying the floorboards, and I know they have been aware of and followed that.

Also minimum length of floorboards
From LK
 
  • Image showing a wooden flooring board with grooves, installed at a corner with a minimum 10mm gap from the wall and fixed objects, adjacent to two pipes.
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Dr Benz Dr Benz said:
From LK
However, that doesn't explain why the floor sags in the middle or even along the walls where beams are installed 🤷‍♀️
 
esseff esseff said:
Exactly like that the first months! Special feeling, not quite like parquet! But it passed here (see the previous post).
We've had it like that since I kicked in the floor December 2020
P Peter Petterson said:
Have you tried to bring it up with byggmax?
No, I haven't bothered with it.
 
Is all the load-bearing still in the house or has it changed?
 
  • Close-up of attic insulation material between wooden beams, possibly discussing structural changes related to bearing walls.
D Danne213 said:
Is all the load-bearing still in the house or has it changed?
Good morning!

All the load-bearing is still in the house!!!
 
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P Peter Petterson said:
Yes, some of the floors are continuous through door openings, others are not. The worst buckling is just around door openings but it's also present in rooms where the floor lies only within that specific floor.
Is it possible that there wasn't enough gap between the wall and the floor during installation at those points?
That is, under the baseboards it's okay, but in certain places it's too tight and is causing the floors to buckle?
In that case, it might be possible to fix it more locally with a multi-tool.

But ultimately: Either you claim warranty or you start troubleshooting/fixing it yourself and resort to "fix-solutions" - because the company will likely not want to deal with it later.
 
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klaskarlsson klaskarlsson said:
Is it that there wasn't a gap between the wall and the floor at the conduits just then?
I.e., it's okay under the moldings, but in certain places, there's too little space, and it's pushing up the floors?
Then maybe it can be fixed more locally with a multi-tool.

But in the end: Either you make a complaint or you start troubleshooting/fixing it yourself and have to resort to "fix-solutions" - because the company probably won't want to deal with it later.
No, fixing it myself is not an option.

I just spoke with an authorized inspector who will come out in Week 39 and provide a written assessment as well as find the cause of the problem; then the responsible party will need to resolve it so we are satisfied!
 
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Do you have a 360 laser? If so, you can set it up and see if the floor is even or not. Without load. Because if the floor is even and the framework is even, then it can only be the floor chipboard (highly unlikely) or plates/pipes not lying correctly.
 
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H
P Peter Petterson said:
No, fixing it yourself is not an option.

I have just talked with an authorized inspector who will come out in week 39 and provide a written assessment and find the cause of the problem. Then, whoever is responsible for this situation will need to fix it so that we are satisfied!
Not professionally executed is a phrase that you can use. AMA is a standard, but if the material manufacturer says it should be installed with higher requirements than what AMA specifies, then it is the manufacturer's instructions that apply for it to be considered professionally executed. AMA addresses, among other things, the slope and height differences of floors.
 
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