No paper strips between the drywall sheets - cracks

[Stefan N]

Everyone except some DIY enthusiasts agrees that papp is superior.

 

[TheGame]

Everyone except some DIY enthusiasts agrees that paper is superior.

Yes, but you don't need to glue, completely unnecessary step. Self-adhesive fabric tape can be used instead. Maybe it exists in paper too?

 

[Thomas Holm]

It will probably be better to do so, but it's an enormously big job. Then it might be easier to tear down the plasterboard and put in new ones. Plasterboard is not very expensive.

Oh, I really disagree. But maybe mostly because I've had to make that journey myself. It goes quickly. The hard part is repainting.

 

[Exostor]

But is microlit strong enough to handle this task?

Yes, it works. Or a renovation wallpaper like easy cover, so you don't need to do any spackling at all if you're careful with cutting and fitting.

 

[AG A]

Everyone except certain DIY enthusiasts agree that paper is superior.

We absolutely do not agree on that. I would rather claim the opposite. It's mostly ignorant amateurs who believe that the dimensional stability of the paper strip in "all directions" matters. If it moves, it cracks, regardless of the strip. The strip is meant for crack reinforcement, not to absorb any forces.

 

[atomlab]

There we absolutely disagree. I would rather claim the opposite. It is mostly ignorant amateurs who believe that the dimensional stability of the paper tape in "all directions" matters. If it moves, it cracks, regardless of which tape. The tape is there for crack reinforcement. Not to absorb any forces.

Funny that the manufacturer of plasterboards is seen as ignorant amateurs.

 

[Jumos]

We have a house built on blue clay, so it moves a lot during all the year's changes, causing the wallpaper to crack in the corners and over the joints. The solution that has worked best for us is to glue paper strips in the corners/joints, fill it so that it's even and neat, apply renovation wallpaper on top of that, and then wallpaper. All with staggered seams (nothing is directly over another seam). It's been almost 7 years since we renovated, and where we did this, it's still flawless. It might be overkill, but I would definitely do the same thing again considering the result.

 

[Stefan N]

Yes, I agree. All assembly instructions require paper. Point 3.5 https://www.gyproc.se/sites/gypsum.nordic.master/files/gyproc-site/BroschyrerSE/YBG-Nr7.pdf

PAPER JOINT TAPE IS STRONG IN ALL DIRECTIONS​
	Paper joint tape is strong and dimensionally stable in all directions. It may not seem particularly strong when torn, but it is more than strong enough when used with plasterboards and joint compound. Paper joint tape provides full adhesion over its entire surface, partly because the paper fibers rise when joint compound is applied. This creates a strong bond between the plasterboard's paper and the tape's fibers. With the right type of joint tape and compound, the connection becomes so strong that it's the material around the seam that gives way if you try to remove the joint tape after drying and curing. Norgips recommends paper joint tape for all joint work.
FIBERGLASS TAPE SEEMS STRONG, BUT…​
	Fiberglass tape lacks dimensional stability even though it is very strong when aligned parallel with the fibers. The tape only adheres to the plasterboard paper at the points where the fibers are in contact with the substrate. Therefore, there is no strength in the large areas where the anchorage between the joint compound and the paper only occurs in the joint compound. Norgips does not recommend joint filling of plasterboards with fiberglass tape.

 

[ansic]

Someone who works with regular filler mostly uses paper tape, but there are instances where fiberglass is sufficient or more suitable. In America/United Kingdom, they use some form of gypsum plaster instead of latex filler, exclusively using fiberglass tape. However, the thickness of the layer is substantial and the material is harder.

 

[TheGame]

Probably doesn't matter what you use as long as the result is good.
I have used both variants (paper/fiber tape) and the result has been the same.
However, I haven't bothered with gluing the paper strips, but maybe that's "nå nytt."

 

[Exostor]

Probably doesn't matter what you use as long as the result is good.
I've used both variants (paper/fiber tape), and the result has been the same.
However, I haven't messed with gluing the paper tapes, but maybe that's "something new."

Plastering the tape works fine if you're doing it on new boards in the recess, but to cover a crack, it usually results in a pretty thick seam if you're only securing it with plaster. Glue makes it all thinner.

 

[AG A]

Funny that the manufacturer of plasterboards is seen as ignorant amateurs.

Never heard of collaboration between companies. Or subsidiaries, and sister companies.

A bit of why amateurs use paper. They have no experience, just empty promises from companies trying to make as much money as possible.

It should be said, however, that the paper strip is good. But it is not better than the one in fiberglass.

 

[atomlab]

Never heard of collaboration between companies. Or subsidiaries, and sister companies.
Kind of why amateurs use cardboard. They have no experience, just empty promises from companies trying to make as much money as possible.
It should be said, however, that the cardboard strip is good. But it is not better than the one in fiberglass.

Oh my goodness.

 

[JanneJanne123]

For my part, I glue the paper strips because at one point I failed miserably at embedding them, after which almost every strip came loose in several places, resulting in much extra work. With glued paper strips, it's impossible to go wrong, so I now always play it safe and glue them. Not really any more work compared to embedding the strips in my opinion.

 

[MathiasS]

Why do people talk about gluing paper tape etc. nowadays?

There is simple fabric tape that you can tape over seams that you spackle over, or you use paper tape and spackle over it. I, as an amateur, manage this and have done so for many years, and the drywall seams hold.

You don't need to fuss with gluing with fabric/wallpaper glue, totally unnecessary. You're making it too complicated 😆

You're simply not keeping up with developments. The industry has, for many years - very many years - determined that the industry standard, Hus-AMA, etc., recommends using paper tape instead of fiberglass tape. This is because the paper tape has advantages compared to the fabric tape. Everyone except AG A (and maybe you) agrees on this, and they also agree on the advantages of the tape.

Whether you choose to glue the tape or spackle it in is up to you. The industry standard gives you both options. Since it isn't always easy to spackle the tape in, I usually suggest gluing the tape with fabric glue - everyone can handle that, and it's very hard to fail. A few years ago, the industry guidelines recommended gluing particularly exposed seams, but that has disappeared in recent years - now these options seem to have been made equivalent - possibly in connection with using more than one type of spackle when spackling the tape (I haven’t kept up with that detail since I glue). Professionals choose to spackle in the tape because it is much faster when you know how to, not because it is better.