Hello hello!!!

Installed new flooring on three levels of the house.
The carpenters have gone down to the joists, mounted new battens on the old ones to level the floor.

Glued and screwed according to all the rules.
Pre-drilled floor particle boards, also glued and screwed according to all the rules.

Aluminum plates with the correct spacing installed.

The floor, they say, is also laid with enough spacing against walls, thresholds, etc.

Now to the problem, the floor almost floats on an air cushion almost everywhere. Both along the edges and in the middle of the floor.

At portals, where it is tightest, the floors creak and squeak as they have risen significantly.

Short joints have started to develop large gaps and are not tight in many places.

Big, big problems in other words.

Does anyone have suggestions on what is wrong and solutions?

I suspect too little spacing against the walls and that the floor is under tension?
 
  • Renovation process showing removed flooring with visible joists and underlying materials, indicating issues with floor alignment and noise.
  • Room under renovation with exposed floor joists and insulation, partially installed chipboard flooring, window with open blinds, and unpainted walls.
  • Wooden floor joists with insulation between them in a partially renovated room, showing unfinished walls and a window.
  • Renovated room with newly installed floorboards and a partially painted window frame, showing gaps and unevenness in the flooring.
  • New floor installation with metal plates and red underfloor heating pipes visible, showing underlayment preparation in a house under renovation.
  • A newly installed wooden floor with tools scattered, next to an underlay showing the Kährs brand. A person stands on the right side of the image.
  • Room with newly installed wooden floor, window with open view, and scattered tools on the windowsill. Gaps visible along the edges, mallet on floor.
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Tommy Kokkarinen
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A
The panels seem to be placed too close. But it hardly explains everything you're describing.

Remove the baseboards and see if the floor is pressing against the wall.
 
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Roger Fundin
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Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
The plates seem to be too close. But that hardly explains everything you are describing.
The plates were moved after the photo when I pointed out to the carpenters that they were too close. So that's not the problem :)
 
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Roger Fundin and 1 other
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Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
The plates seem to be too close. But hardly explains everything you're describing.

Remove the baseboards and see if the floor is pressing against the wall.
Yes, we'll start with that tomorrow by removing one or two baseboards. The worst part is that all the baseboards are painted in, and if there's tension, the painter will go crazy since we'll need to redo the wallpaper and repaint all the walls where we remove the baseboards.
 
Isn't it just the underlayment foam that's yielding?
 
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Lintto1 and 10 others
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What kind of floor is there?

Of course, I don't know if you are as strong as the Hulk but in the video, it flexes ungodly much. I think that supports the theory that the floor is under tension and has cracked upwards.
 
Yes, I am stronger than most...
The underlayment foam, Kährs tuplex, seems to be 3 mm thick. Then it's not surprising that the floor flexes up to a couple of mm under point load?
 
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Lintto1 and 2 others
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Did you check that the substrate was completely level before laying the floor?

How long did you acclimatize the packages with flooring?

I was taught to allow 1mm "expansion space" per meter of flooring when I laid the floors in the house.

For long/wide rooms, the trick was to cut the drywall so the floor can expand under the drywall and not just the thickness of the trim.
 
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Roger Fundin
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Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
What kind of flooring is there?

Of course, I don't know if you are as strong as the Hulk, but in the video, it flexes enormously. I think this supports the theory that the floor is under tension and has cracked upwards.
https://www.byggmax.se/parkettgolv-ask-3-stav-stockholm-white-14-mm-barlinek

Is this the floor? No, it doesn't take much pressure for it to flex that much. I would say about 5kg of pressure.
 
R Robert-san01 said:
Did you check that the subfloor was completely level before laying the floor?

How long did you acclimatize the packs of flooring?

I learned the rule of 1mm "expansion gap" per meter of flooring when I did the floors in the house.

To make it work in long/wide rooms, the trick was to cut the drywall so the floor can expand under it, not just the thickness of the trim.
Yep, we checked the subfloor and it is straight. Very straight. The floor was indoors for about 2 weeks before it was laid.

I suspect it has expanded and is under tension. If that's what's happened, it seems it's going to be an extremely boring and expensive issue.
 
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Ladan_1 and 1 other
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P Peter Petterson said:
Yep, we checked the substrate and it is straight, Very straight. The floor was left indoors for about 2 weeks before being laid.

I suspect it has swelled and is under tension, if that is what happened it will become an extremely boring and expensive story it seems
Sad if that's the case. 😢
 
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Roger Fundin
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useless useless said:
Yes, I am stronger than most...
The underlay foam, Kährs tuplex, seems to be 3 mm thick. Then it's not so strange that the floor flexes up to a couple of mm under point load?
I was referring to the thread starter when I brought in the Hulk, it was in no way meant to undermine your theory about the foam.
 
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Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
I was referring to the thread creator when I brought in the Hulk, it was not in any way meant to undermine your theory about the foam.
We can probably let go of the foam since the floor has risen and the short joints have slid apart after the floor was laid.
 
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Sebbe89
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P Peter Petterson said:
Yep we checked the base and it is straight, Very straight. The floor was left indoors for about 2 weeks before it was laid.

I suspect that it has swollen and is under tension, If that's what happened then it seems it's going to be an extremely boring and expensive story
Just loosen the floor skirting and cut the floor if it's too close with, for example, a multi-tool
 
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Familjen Sjökvist and 3 others
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P Peter Petterson said:
Yes, we're starting with that tomorrow, removing a plinth or two. The worst part is that all the plinths are painted over, and if they are under tension, the painter will go crazy since we'll have to redo the wallpapering and repaint all the walls where we remove the baseboards.
Your house? You're the ones who decide?
 
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