New question about alternatives to a load-bearing interior wall with posts and load beam instead

[Novisfixaren]

Certainly. There aren't any major forces unless you consider the risk of collision...

The question then is should I have noggings between the rafters?

In the garage section, I'm thinking of insulating with mineral wool between the roof beams and screwing gypsum board, but I suppose I need to create 24-inch centers somehow? The problem is I really don't want to reduce the ceiling height with battens, etc. Do you have any ideas there? It'll only be about 95mm of mineral wool, but I figure it's better than nothing...

 

[justusandersson]

Then kortlingar probably appear as the simplest solution.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Then noggins seem like the simplest solution.

What do you think about using 45x45 noggins to create cc60 to screw the gypsum board into and then let the insulation lie loosely on top of these?

 

[justusandersson]

1200 or 1300 mm feels a bit long for 45x45. I can calculate it, but not tonight. Good idea to let the insulation lie loosely on top of the short beams.

 

[Novisfixaren]

1200 or 1300 mm feels a bit long for 45x45. I can calculate it, but not tonight. Good idea to let the insulation lie loose on top of the noggins.

Please do. Grateful for your help.

 

[justusandersson]

It's going well.

 

[Novisfixaren]

It goes well.

Ok, possibly a horizontal 45x95 is better, creating a bit more stability and a larger surface for the insulation to rest on?

 

[Novisfixaren]

It works well.

If I say glulam beam instead of construction timber in the roof beams, how would it look dimension-wise?

Is there a huge price difference?

 

[justusandersson]

I think that glulam becomes about twice as expensive compared to double 45x195. You don't gain much but avoid the hassle of screwing and gluing. If you choose 115x180 beams, you can lower the height. Glulam can also be ordered in the correct length (upon request).

 

[Novisfixaren]

I think glulam beams are about twice as expensive compared to double 45x195. You don't gain that much but you avoid the hassle of screwing and gluing. If you choose 115x180 beams, you can lower the height. Glulam can also be ordered in the correct length.

ok but we're talking about a 1.5cm height difference then?

 

[justusandersson]

Yes, glulam is normally not available in a height smaller than 180 mm. You would need to purchase a larger dimension (of the homogeneous type) and split it. Theoretically (in this case), you can go down to a height of 140 mm if you start with a 215 mm wide beam.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Yes, glulam is normally not available in less height than 180 mm. You would need to buy a larger dimension (of the homogeneous kind) and split it. Theoretically (in this case), you can get down to 140 mm height if you start from a 215 mm wide beam.

ok, it seems reasonable to screw-glue 45x195 completely after all

 

[Novisfixaren]

Yes, glulam is normally not available in heights smaller than 180 mm. You would need to buy a larger dimension (of the homogeneous type) and split it. Theoretically (in this case) you can get down to a height of 140 mm if you start with a 215 mm wide beam.

Starting to approach the point where this project should begin, but I'm considering the screw gluing. Could one consider quick clamps and a nail gun instead of screws?

 

[justusandersson]

Absolutely, if you have enough clamps. The screw replaces the clamps. Glue-laminated timber from the factory is never screwed.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Absolutely, if you have enough clamps. The screw replaces the clamps. Glue-laminated timber from the factory is never screwed.

Ok, can regular, trusty wood glue work?

I'm considering the attachment of post/roof beam, have found suitable flat steel bars, but will it work with coach screws on both sides, like 10x40. Or do I need a through-threaded rod with a nut?