New question about alternatives to a load-bearing interior wall with posts and load beam instead

[justusandersson]

Yes. You can actually go down to two screw-glued 45x195 C 24 if you consider that the glue joint slightly increases the modulus of elasticity. The posts must be dimensioned with regard to the risk of buckling when they are unbraced. The easiest way is to screw-glue two 45x95 to form a post.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Yes. You can actually go down to two screw-glued 45x195 C 24 if you count on the glue joint raising the Modulus of Elasticity somewhat. The posts must be dimensioned with consideration to the risk of buckling when they are unbraced. The simplest way is to screw-glue 2 pieces of 45x95 into a post.

Could one attach the roof beams to the load-bearing beam with joist hangers?

Or if you place the roof joists directly on the posts 95x95, what is the simplest, most appropriate way to attach them?

Visible metal plates, etc., are not a problem as function and strength take precedence over appearance here.

 

[justusandersson]

Flat steel on both sides of the beam + column with through bolts is best.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Flat steel on both sides of the beam + column with through bolts is best.

Attaching to a girder with joist hangers is not an option at all, is it?

 

[justusandersson]

If by that you mean you want to splice the rafters over the posts, that is a bad option. It is better for them to rest on top. Order finger-jointed timber with the correct total length.

 

[Novisfixaren]

If by that you mean that you want to splice the rafters over the posts, it is a bad option. It's better if they rest on top. Order finger-jointed timber with the right total length.

If I had placed a bearing beam on top of the posts, double standing 45x195, would it work to attach rafters on each side with joist hangers? This question is mostly out of curiosity...

 

[justusandersson]

Double standing 45x195 changes nothing. You utilize the material in the roof beams better if they are continuous over both compartments.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Double standing 45x195 changes nothing. You utilize the material in the roof beams better if they are continuous over both sections.

OK, I understand, but are joist hangers in the way I have described a possible alternative generally instead of splicing on top of a support beam or is that never done?

How would you proceed with the screw-gluing of my beams? I don't have access to machines, so I have to lift manually. Is it easiest to place a 45x195, 7.5m finger-jointed beam in the roof on both outer supports? Then screw-glue them together up there on site?

Afterward, when all the roof beams are placed on the outer supports and screwed in, I install the post row in the middle last?

 

[justusandersson]

There is always a disadvantage with joist hangers if the beams need to span more than one bay. Sometimes it becomes necessary anyway.

I would not screw-glue in mid-air. They are not heavier than you can lift them with a little trick.

Once all the rafters are fastened on the outer edge, should I mount the post row in the middle last?

That sounds like the right method. Don't forget that the posts must also be fastened to the floor.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Okay haven't found info about screw gluing online properly.

How do you do it? PU glue? What kind of screw and how close? Nail gun not sufficient?

Fastening between post and roof beam would hole plates be sufficient with a full-threaded rod and a nut, one in the roof beam and one in the post, or what is customary?

 

[justusandersson]

PU glue works. Since it's indoors, there are probably other glues that work as well. I'm not an expert on that. The screws are instead of clamps. You screw from both sides close enough that you can see the glue seeping out of the joint. You have to experiment. An 80 mm screw is suitable in this case.

Two bolts in the post and one in the beam seem appropriate to me.

 

[Novisfixaren]

PU glue works. Since it is indoors, there are surely other glues that also work. I'm not an expert on that. The screws are instead of clamps. You screw from both sides so tightly that you see the glue creeping out in the joint. You have to try it out. 80 mm screws are suitable in this case.

Two bolts in the post and one in the beam I think is appropriate.

A certain part is a carport, so half outdoors as well. But flat steel works to paint so that they withstand outdoor climate?

Regarding fastening posts in the concrete slab indoors, I thought about using U iron and threaded rod down into the concrete slab with anchoring compound then bolt through the post and through the iron from the side.

For the outdoor posts I thought the same, but before mounting the post I plan to create a form about 120x120x50mm, place it over the U iron and fill it with fine concrete to create a raise on the existing concrete slab in the carport where the posts will stand. Opinion?

 

[justusandersson]

It seems OK. The important thing is that the posts are locked at both ends. Use the technique that most easily gives the best result regarding the posts' alignment.

 

[Novisfixaren]

It seems OK. The important thing is that the posts are anchored at both ends. Use the technique that most easily provides the best result in terms of the posts' vertical alignment.

For the posts that are indoors, would it have been okay to just drill threaded rod into the bottom of the post and then let the roof's dead weight do the rest?

 

[justusandersson]

Sure. There aren't any major forces unless you consider the risk of a collision...