Hello,
I'm planning to replace the gutters and downspouts on the house, and currently there's no fascia metal installed, instead, the "membrane" underneath extends a bit further.
The rest of the roof is concrete tiles, and the bottom row is nailed down.
To remove the old brackets and install fascia metal, I would have to lift up the bottom row of tiles.
The alternative is to not remove the concrete tiles and just cut the brackets.
So the question is, am I overdoing it if I install fascia metal?
/C
I'm planning to replace the gutters and downspouts on the house, and currently there's no fascia metal installed, instead, the "membrane" underneath extends a bit further.
The rest of the roof is concrete tiles, and the bottom row is nailed down.
To remove the old brackets and install fascia metal, I would have to lift up the bottom row of tiles.
The alternative is to not remove the concrete tiles and just cut the brackets.
So the question is, am I overdoing it if I install fascia metal?
/C
The sheet can be mounted in at least two ways that I know of:
1. On the lowest batten. This directs the water from the tiles into the gutter and protects from splashes between the gutter and the eave.
2. On the eave. Either so that it directs the water from the underlay into the gutter, i.e., "on top of" the gutter but under the underlay, or under the gutter, in which case the water from the underlay misses the gutter. The point here is to protect the eave.
Option 2 becomes difficult to achieve as the sheet needs to be placed under the underlay or an underlay strip should be laid on top. Difficult without tearing down the batten and everything...
If the eave is in good condition and has held up so far, I wouldn't bother with sheet metal afterward.
1. On the lowest batten. This directs the water from the tiles into the gutter and protects from splashes between the gutter and the eave.
2. On the eave. Either so that it directs the water from the underlay into the gutter, i.e., "on top of" the gutter but under the underlay, or under the gutter, in which case the water from the underlay misses the gutter. The point here is to protect the eave.
Option 2 becomes difficult to achieve as the sheet needs to be placed under the underlay or an underlay strip should be laid on top. Difficult without tearing down the batten and everything...
If the eave is in good condition and has held up so far, I wouldn't bother with sheet metal afterward.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
I have struggled with sheet metal afterward, something I don't regret.
Protte
Protte
Seems a bit strange that the gutter hooks are just screwed into the eaves sheet. It's usually quite thin. But can't you just bend the gutter hooks as usual to get the right slope on the gutters? Normally, that's how you adjust the slope, not by moving the attachment of the hooks, at least with that type of hook.
You'll have to drag yourself up the ladder and take some pictures. I'm having trouble understanding what it is you're describing.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
What are the fyrkantrören doing there?
Images usually clarify, but now they probably raised more questions than answers... 
The solution with the square tubes looks very strange. Someone must have really wanted to build in the gutter and happened to have a bunch of square tubes leftover to use as a frame for this? And then a sheet metal facade on top? The enclosure doesn't seem to appear discreet. I guess the windproofing (?) wrapped studs are regular wooden studs. It's hard to understand what the trusses look like...
But back to the question about the gutter hangers themselves. The actual fastening of these isn't visible. Are they inserted between the roof sheet and the eaves sheet and then screwed through both? Also quite odd.
Is it just the gutter you need to fix, or are there bigger changes on the way? Are you going to keep the enclosure of the gutter? If you're keeping the square profiles, one might consider placing/attaching a stud on top of them to have something to attach the gutter hangers to. There are hooks intended to attach to the eaves board that might be usable. These hooks are usually either adapted for a couple of standard roof slopes or adjustable. Perhaps the latter would work, but it would still be a bit special.
But if you're considering redoing the roof before long (it doesn't look brand new), I wouldn't spend time and money on something special right now.
The solution with the square tubes looks very strange. Someone must have really wanted to build in the gutter and happened to have a bunch of square tubes leftover to use as a frame for this? And then a sheet metal facade on top? The enclosure doesn't seem to appear discreet
. I guess the windproofing (?) wrapped studs are regular wooden studs. It's hard to understand what the trusses look like...But back to the question about the gutter hangers themselves. The actual fastening of these isn't visible. Are they inserted between the roof sheet and the eaves sheet and then screwed through both? Also quite odd.
Is it just the gutter you need to fix, or are there bigger changes on the way? Are you going to keep the enclosure of the gutter? If you're keeping the square profiles, one might consider placing/attaching a stud on top of them to have something to attach the gutter hangers to. There are hooks intended to attach to the eaves board that might be usable. These hooks are usually either adapted for a couple of standard roof slopes or adjustable. Perhaps the latter would work, but it would still be a bit special.
But if you're considering redoing the roof before long (it doesn't look brand new), I wouldn't spend time and money on something special right now.