The foundation wall of the summer cottage, about 50-150cm high and maybe 6-7 m long, has thrown in the towel. The plaster is coming off in large chunks, and the concrete behind it is mostly porous sand. It's sitting on bedrock and I'm thinking of replacing it with a Leca wall. The question is how to support the wall while I demolish and build a new one. The floor joists run parallel to the current wall (so they don't need support). I'm considering screwing a couple of planks to the wall studs and sill with French screws and propping against these. Or should I make some holes in the wall and insert planks into these and prop in the basement and outside?
I find this whole operation a bit unsettling, so tips and preferably pictures are gladly received!
//Larsa
I find this whole operation a bit unsettling, so tips and preferably pictures are gladly received!
//Larsa
Haven't done anything like it myself.
When you watch programs like "monster moves" (or whatever it's called), they usually carve out the foundation and then insert H-beams at regular intervals.
The house is then lifted onto its beams, and thus leaves the foundation.
If you can shore under every or every other wall stud/post a bit out, you'll have more workspace to build your wall on than if you shore right next to it.
Then the follow-up question is what is required to shore your house, to which I have no answer or even any thoughts?
KKR/VKR or H-beam as "inserts" and proper shores should work, ... maybe...
When you watch programs like "monster moves" (or whatever it's called), they usually carve out the foundation and then insert H-beams at regular intervals.
The house is then lifted onto its beams, and thus leaves the foundation.
If you can shore under every or every other wall stud/post a bit out, you'll have more workspace to build your wall on than if you shore right next to it.
Then the follow-up question is what is required to shore your house, to which I have no answer or even any thoughts?
KKR/VKR or H-beam as "inserts" and proper shores should work, ... maybe...
Hey. I've lifted a house with a timber frame. I inserted sturdy iron and a jack on each side (inside & outside).
I would try what you suggest, screw in a beam and prop with it. Then you can replace one meter at a time or something similar? The house is more stable than you think.
I would try what you suggest, screw in a beam and prop with it. Then you can replace one meter at a time or something similar? The house is more stable than you think.
Do you have pictures?
Even if you take it piece by piece, you lose a lot of support even beside the ongoing piece. The excavation angle for earthworks is usually calculated as 1:2 (i.e., 1m high requires support two meters to the side). If the concrete, as you describe it, is "porous sand," it would be something similar. Otherwise, the load distribution is typically calculated at about 30 degrees for masonry constructions. That's 30 degrees from the vertical, in other words. I don't know my trigonometry well enough to calculate it exactly, but at 1m high, it's about 70cm to the side. I would probably try some kind of bracing solution or something similar, at least for the first piece. Once you've got lecablock up in one place, you have good support there. As flashower says, the house is likely more stable than you think, but you can't appeal if it collapses...
Even if you take it piece by piece, you lose a lot of support even beside the ongoing piece. The excavation angle for earthworks is usually calculated as 1:2 (i.e., 1m high requires support two meters to the side). If the concrete, as you describe it, is "porous sand," it would be something similar. Otherwise, the load distribution is typically calculated at about 30 degrees for masonry constructions. That's 30 degrees from the vertical, in other words. I don't know my trigonometry well enough to calculate it exactly, but at 1m high, it's about 70cm to the side. I would probably try some kind of bracing solution or something similar, at least for the first piece. Once you've got lecablock up in one place, you have good support there. As flashower says, the house is likely more stable than you think, but you can't appeal if it collapses...
Had a company that came to look at it now. He condemned the foundation for half the house, and I have to admit I suspected it but turned a blind eye to the fact...
It's about a summer cottage with origins from the 1930s. Probably very weakly mixed concrete or they've used brackish water in the concrete. Now, in many places, you can press a knife into the "concrete."
The contractor suggested a polystyrene foundation filled with concrete, essentially building blocks that act as "molds." He said it was the most efficient way. Personally, I find it a bit strange... It might work, but is it suitable for a foundation below ground? I envision that the plaster will not hold. Any wise thoughts or advice on this?
It's about a summer cottage with origins from the 1930s. Probably very weakly mixed concrete or they've used brackish water in the concrete. Now, in many places, you can press a knife into the "concrete."
The contractor suggested a polystyrene foundation filled with concrete, essentially building blocks that act as "molds." He said it was the most efficient way. Personally, I find it a bit strange... It might work, but is it suitable for a foundation below ground? I envision that the plaster will not hold. Any wise thoughts or advice on this?