Some form of nail rule you should have behind so the panel does not warp too much when you nail the lockstoß (that's what it's called, absolutely correct). Nails should be attempted to be placed between the bottom boards just like with the nailing of the battens to allow the boards to move better.
A common way is to place a nail rule against the raw wood (as Ola78 suggests), and then another about 10cm lower (depends on the width of the clapboard). The top one is used to nail the panel and clapboard, the lower one is for the locks. On the short sides and at open eaves, it may be necessary to lower the top nail rule slightly, depending on the construction of the air gap.
Image search "lockstöt" to see the principle.
You can skip the top one, but then screwing is easier; however, the bottom one is necessary for the locks.
Image search "lockstöt" to see the principle.
You can skip the top one, but then screwing is easier; however, the bottom one is necessary for the locks.
Thank you so much for the tips! How do you splice a molding trim? Just butt the ends together and screw, or should you do something smart like miter cut at 45°?
I'm afraid the boards will "lift" at the ends (away from the wall).
I'm afraid the boards will "lift" at the ends (away from the wall).
If you have a house with cladding of varying lengths at the bottom and corner boards in place, removing the corner boards isn't so easy since the paint sticks everything together tightly.
If you attempt an angled cut with a circular saw, it gets a bit strange at the corners because the corner board on the wall you aren't cutting will end up with a 15° cut in the wrong direction, so there will be a notch when you cut the other side later.
Starting a bit in and cutting precisely in the corners with a multi-tool is difficult with a traditional circular saw with a blade guard (maybe with something like a plunge saw). Once you start cutting, I imagine you can stop before reaching the corner board on the wall 90° from the one you're cutting.
Not easy to explain :/, I can hardly imagine myself how it will turn out except that it doesn't feel right...
Anyone done this or have an idea on how to approach it?
If you attempt an angled cut with a circular saw, it gets a bit strange at the corners because the corner board on the wall you aren't cutting will end up with a 15° cut in the wrong direction, so there will be a notch when you cut the other side later.
Starting a bit in and cutting precisely in the corners with a multi-tool is difficult with a traditional circular saw with a blade guard (maybe with something like a plunge saw). Once you start cutting, I imagine you can stop before reaching the corner board on the wall 90° from the one you're cutting.
Not easy to explain :/, I can hardly imagine myself how it will turn out except that it doesn't feel right...
Anyone done this or have an idea on how to approach it?
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Stop worrying about droppnäsa on the corners. Droppnäsa is not that important anyway.
One could do that, but the problem remains how I will be able to run the circular saw along the entire house wall (by the way, I would like it beveled) and make it even and neat without making it uneven where I start.
Ideally, one starts with the blade outside the wall, sort of.
Ideally, one starts with the blade outside the wall, sort of.
If you can get hold of a plunge saw with a long guide rail, the job will be much easier and safer. You screw the rail onto the wall. Stop the cut on the corner boards about 2-3cm from the corner. Then remove this piece with a handsaw, cutting it at a 90-degree angle, so this particular piece won't have a drip edge.
The difficulty with a regular circular saw is getting a good start to the cut and maintaining direction.
Regardless of the saw, the blade should be sharp for a successful result. If the blade is dull, it not only takes longer but requires more force, making it harder to guide.
The difficulty with a regular circular saw is getting a good start to the cut and maintaining direction.
Regardless of the saw, the blade should be sharp for a successful result. If the blade is dull, it not only takes longer but requires more force, making it harder to guide.
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Screw rails onto the walls to cut the drip edge; you won't get much building done in a day!
1) Snap the line with chalk line
2) Use the circular saw without setting the angle first. Slowly and smoothly lower the blade (which is now spinning) where you want to start, and cut half a meter along the line.
3) Set the angle
4) Start over, and cut the first half meter again + the rest in one go, without interruption.
Done. Straight and nice.
1) Snap the line with chalk line
2) Use the circular saw without setting the angle first. Slowly and smoothly lower the blade (which is now spinning) where you want to start, and cut half a meter along the line.
3) Set the angle
4) Start over, and cut the first half meter again + the rest in one go, without interruption.
Done. Straight and nice.
But this requires some practice and as an ordinary homeowner, you don't change panels that many times. The risk is that if you're inexperienced it can become wavy without support. So instead of a chalk line, I suggest some form of stop that you screw into place, e.g. a straight board. Time is rarely the problem in these cases.Niclas Jonsson said:
I made it so that I let a few panel boards stick down considerably too far, maybe 20-30 cm. The distance between these boards was perhaps 2-3 meters. On these, I then screwed a horizontal batten as support for the circular saw (I didn't want to screw any track into the panel and create ugly screw holes unnecessarily, and moreover, my old circular saw has no track...)
Then it was just a matter of resting the circular saw on the batten and making an angled cut. I took off the long boards last.
Then it was just a matter of resting the circular saw on the batten and making an angled cut. I took off the long boards last.
Thanks for all the great answers! It's nice to know I'm not the only one who has thought about this.
Right now, I'm leaning towards renting a plunge saw and 10m tracks for a weekend and starting the cut 2-3cm in and stopping 2-3cm before, then doing the rest with a handsaw.
Right now, I'm leaning towards renting a plunge saw and 10m tracks for a weekend and starting the cut 2-3cm in and stopping 2-3cm before, then doing the rest with a handsaw.
10m rails, are they available? Renting a Festool with a 3m rail, it has a hole at each end, perfect for a drywall screw.
If you angle a Festool ts55 at about 14 degrees, it can handle 49mm panel (e.g., 28 + 21)
If you angle a Festool ts55 at about 14 degrees, it can handle 49mm panel (e.g., 28 + 21)