Y
I'm excited to get new wall panels up in the garage.

The roof leaked and caused moisture damage that won't be able to recover.

I'm a little afraid of prying them off with the crowbar, because I've painted the exterior panel and I'm not at all keen on risking pulling and tearing nails and such.

What would happen if I placed new studs against the old ones...
Would the old damp ones damage the new ones?

Or if I don't bother to either replace or add to it. Just put on some new weatherproofing, insulation, plastic, and board... What happens then?


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* Which board material is the most cost-effective to later hang shelves and other items?
* Is it overkill to put renovation drywall on top? It seems pointless, more easily damaged. Maybe better to just roll the wooden boards white?

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If you build in the studs without allowing them to dry properly, you'll get mold.
How do you know they won't be able to recover? Have you omitted any information?
You could otherwise try a powerful heater for a week.
 
Y
I know a claims adjuster who was here and measured and said it cannot recover. However, I got the impression that I could disconnect the bad part.

I have treated with various agents, boracol among others.

I obviously don't want to risk getting mold. I just don't have the knowledge of how it reacts if I install a sheet. It could have had a preserving effect (fantasy speculation).

The roof used to let in water, but the roofing felt & planks have been replaced now.
 
Now, I have no idea about the overall situation or the construction, but if it's as damaged as you say, at least I would try removing one board to see how much work it will be to replace them.

Instead of using a crowbar and "pulling and tearing," you might use a diamond blade on the angle grinder, or a saw blade intended for metal on the multi-tool and cut off the nails on the backside of the board.

If it's difficult to initially access for sawing, maybe you can first carefully pry open a gap with the crowbar to then saw.
 
Y
I took some measurements with an expensive meter on the areas that appeared a bit darker. But it only ended up at the start of orange... 16% or whatever unit it is. 16 anyway... at worst, there was a small zone of 17.

Trying to search right now for what values are acceptable.

Isn't it 15 to be able to paint? Then 16 should be okay to close up.
 
Your friend the claims adjuster should be able to give you good suggestions on what to do and not...
 
Y
Well, but only tomorrow, I am bored now. ;)
 
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