Should I match the deflection of the truss to the beam at the top of the gable peak in the picture?

The trusses have about a 10mm deflection in the middle, should I set the beam to follow the same shape or should I set it straight? How does the carpenter do it?

I hope you understand what I mean, it's just a cosmetic question
Roof structure with visible joists and insulation, asking if top gable rule should match 10mm mid-sag of trusses for cosmetic alignment.
 
At least I find it very difficult to understand what you mean. It's also a tricky perspective on the photo.
 
What is your thought, insulate against the outer roof or set a beam against the gable to install wall panels?
These are different techniques; if you are using it for the wall, the 10 mm doesn't matter.
If you plan to use it for ceiling cladding like panels or boards, I would install it without a bend; if the roof curves slightly, it won't be noticeable, but if it curves at a corner between different materials, it's more noticeable.
Set it straight; do not follow the bend.

Kind regards, P-A
 
trying to explain better,

Sagging truss RED

Straight or matching rule: BLUE

45x45 transverse with insulation: YELLOW
Ceiling structure showing a red deflection line, blue and yellow beams for alignment, insulation placement, and a discussion on matching beam angles.

then you need to add battens and gypsum on walls and ceiling.

The entire ceiling has a slightly curved surface due to the small sagging, so the question was whether I should take the opportunity to match the blue rule to make the yellow transverse pieces straight or let the blue rule be straight?
 
Sure, I understood you correctly, the answer is the same, set the "blue" straight.

I would have placed the blue a little lower than the existing rafters, then straightened it up, set new, straight ones against the roof trusses, then the battens.

I would have done this if it had been more than your 10 mm, if this is correct, it’s not very crooked/sagging.

When you set battens, plasterboard, or potentially other surface layers, these few millimeters will have disappeared.

Best regards, P-A

ps
The important thing is to set the beam without bending towards the gable; otherwise, the book will be visible, the deflection in the other ceiling will not be particularly noticeable, it is precisely within proximity to the building standards that a craftsman would consider as approved work.

I would have screwed beam to beam, straightened up the deflection... Maybe!

ds.
 
Thanks for the answer!

making it straight then, so the rest will stay as they are, I've had wood paneling directly on the rafters before and never thought about them being a bit saggy.

one must get finished at some point too :D
 
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Hmm, my latest post changed the inflection to the book, I think you understand anyway.
Best regards, P-A
 
P Pagno said:
hmm, my last post changed böjen to boken, I think you understand anyway.
mvh P-A
yes, I understood! :D

But, as damaged as I am, after a bit of Googling on justerskruv, it's a trip to the hardware store now anyway so I can sleep well in the future :geek::)
 
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