Hello.
I just went to Byggmax and bought masonite for the interior walls of an entire upper floor. When it was time to soak the boards before nailing, I discovered that the boards don't have a raw side (virasida) but instead have two shiny sides. Therefore, the boards hardly absorb any moisture like they usually do. Additionally, the boards are much harder and more brittle than regular board.
Does anyone have experience with these boards? Is this some new variant that doesn't change shape and therefore doesn't need soaking? Perhaps I can simply nail them up, but I'm a bit hesitant since I've seen what can happen when you skip soaking—bubbles, bubbles, and more bubbles.
Answers like, "Just use gypsum boards instead," are kindly but firmly declined.
I just went to Byggmax and bought masonite for the interior walls of an entire upper floor. When it was time to soak the boards before nailing, I discovered that the boards don't have a raw side (virasida) but instead have two shiny sides. Therefore, the boards hardly absorb any moisture like they usually do. Additionally, the boards are much harder and more brittle than regular board.
Does anyone have experience with these boards? Is this some new variant that doesn't change shape and therefore doesn't need soaking? Perhaps I can simply nail them up, but I'm a bit hesitant since I've seen what can happen when you skip soaking—bubbles, bubbles, and more bubbles.
Answers like, "Just use gypsum boards instead," are kindly but firmly declined.
Bought masonite for an interior wall at byggmax last week. Noticed there was a pile of "hårdboard"... maybe that's what you got? However, I don't have any info to help you with the installation, I'm a noob myself.
Haven't put up my boards yet since I became doubtful after the purchase. How close should you nail them for them to sit flat? The old boards had like one nail every other cm. Didn't know about the soaking thing either. Should you spray with a water sprayer?
Haven't put up my boards yet since I became doubtful after the purchase. How close should you nail them for them to sit flat? The old boards had like one nail every other cm. Didn't know about the soaking thing either. Should you spray with a water sprayer?
Aren't board, hardboard, and masonite different names for the same thing? Do you mean that Byggmax had regular masonite at 3.2mm plus another type that was just as thick but harder? Anyway, I think it will do fine on my walls, whether it's hard or not...
You usually moisten the raw side with a brush or spray bottle so that it becomes a little damp the day before installation. Then you stack all the boards together so that the moisture doesn't evaporate but instead spreads within the board. After you have nailed up the boards, they contract slightly, which minimizes the risk of warping. This is particularly important during the driest times of the year when the boards are bone dry, only to swell slightly in late summer and autumn which creates bubbles on the surface. You should nail masonite as tightly as possible. I usually nail at ten-centimeter intervals. A small brad nailer is worth the money several times over when nailing masonite. You don't get large craters from the hammer that need filling, just small marks.
yens:
I use tongue-and-groove + masonite because I think the walls feel much more solid and sturdy than plaster walls. You can hang heavy, wall-mounted items anywhere on the wall, and when you remove things, you don't get large holes in the wallpaper as you would with plaster. In addition, masonite is rock hard and takes more wear than plaster walls. The drawbacks are that the wallpaper can crack just like chipboard walls, tongue-and-groove + masonite takes much longer to set up than plaster, and the cost is higher (I think). Now, I have timber from my own forest, so I save a lot of that cost. But this is probably just a matter of taste like everything else.
You usually moisten the raw side with a brush or spray bottle so that it becomes a little damp the day before installation. Then you stack all the boards together so that the moisture doesn't evaporate but instead spreads within the board. After you have nailed up the boards, they contract slightly, which minimizes the risk of warping. This is particularly important during the driest times of the year when the boards are bone dry, only to swell slightly in late summer and autumn which creates bubbles on the surface. You should nail masonite as tightly as possible. I usually nail at ten-centimeter intervals. A small brad nailer is worth the money several times over when nailing masonite. You don't get large craters from the hammer that need filling, just small marks.
yens:
I use tongue-and-groove + masonite because I think the walls feel much more solid and sturdy than plaster walls. You can hang heavy, wall-mounted items anywhere on the wall, and when you remove things, you don't get large holes in the wallpaper as you would with plaster. In addition, masonite is rock hard and takes more wear than plaster walls. The drawbacks are that the wallpaper can crack just like chipboard walls, tongue-and-groove + masonite takes much longer to set up than plaster, and the cost is higher (I think). Now, I have timber from my own forest, so I save a lot of that cost. But this is probably just a matter of taste like everything else.
Maybe 9.8 mm x2 narrower room !!??Springare said:
Masonite is a brand of board (commonly referred to as masonit) Byggmax sells 2 different types of board. A regular one and an oil-hardened one that is supposed to withstand moisture.
MDF is a type of board that is softer than masonite, but since Byggmax MDF is 16mm and regular board is 3.2mm, I assume that immobil is mistaken in thinking you bought it by mistake.
MDF is a type of board that is softer than masonite, but since Byggmax MDF is 16mm and regular board is 3.2mm, I assume that immobil is mistaken in thinking you bought it by mistake.
The MDF boards I have seen are at least harder than Masonite. There is 3 mm MDF, but maybe Byggmax doesn't have it? I was mostly thinking about the board being smooth on both sides, but maybe there is masonite that is? ;-\
Search a bit for hardboard and you'll see for example:Immobil said:
http://museet.skelleftea.se/hallahus/stilhistoria/masonite.htm
"Masonite has therefore in everyday language become synonymous with all kinds of hardboard"
or:
http://www.suomenkuitulevy.fi/se/produkter/byggnadsskivor/hardboardforbyggaren
"Hardboard is tightly pressed wood fiber boards that are smooth on one side and wire pattern on the other"
or:
http://www.groningboard.se/Board_1.asp
Hardboard is a term for board or if you want, masonite.
I can see the difference between MDF and board and this is definitely no MDF. The color and fiber size differ significantly between MDF and board. My original pondering really only concerned the fact that the board has two smooth sides instead of one. The problem was that the board does not absorb moisture through the smooth sides as quickly, so the risk of bulges in the wall feels a bit greater. However, it has now turned out that they are very easy to work with. They are not at all as flimsy as regular masonite, so they are much easier to mount yourself. Then we'll see if there will be air pockets behind or not.
It's pretty much the same thing as using OSB + drywall but more expensive and difficult. I prefer to have masonite on the outside because the surface is smooth, rock hard, and doesn't leave ugly marks when you take down something that's been mounted on the wall.Springare said:
Yes, exactly. But I usually use a plane on the edges first before putting them up to get a beveled edge.Bloink said:
Borrowing and bumping this thread a little!!
I was at Byggmax a few weeks ago and got boards that are glossy on both sides. I was supposed to put them through the attic hatch, but I only managed to get one whole board up. They couldn't be bent. Today I went to buy more, but those were glossy on one side, and they were no problem to bend.
I need them for a ventilation gap, what is the big difference between these?
I was at Byggmax a few weeks ago and got boards that are glossy on both sides. I was supposed to put them through the attic hatch, but I only managed to get one whole board up. They couldn't be bent. Today I went to buy more, but those were glossy on one side, and they were no problem to bend.
I need them for a ventilation gap, what is the big difference between these?