I have a probably simple problem regarding hinges. I have a small hobby greenhouse that is supposed to have a very simple door made of 25*48 battens. So, no robust constructions here, and there might be some discussion regarding the choice of materials, but that's the idea. You could say it's not a real greenhouse.
I want it to be mounted on the outside and only have the exterior of the door frame to attach it to. And I don't want strap hinges. What are my options then? I haven't thought this through enough myself and hinges are usually my nemesis, as it never ends up as I planned. So, wise tips and advice are welcome.
Perhaps I should add that I won't be able to recess them into the frame either.
And attach to, for lack of a better expression, the side of the door then? I mean on the 25mm battens they consist of?
Will I be able to have it wide open then, for example? This is the kind of thing I can't visualize, damn hinges. My feeling is that I can't do it, and I would like to be able to, so I can prop it completely open.
Well... If you're going to have the door lying outside the frame, you won't be able to open the door more than 90 degrees regardless of how you set a standard hinge. You'll need some sort of double-jointed hinge for that. However, you can solve it simply by attaching an extra piece on the outside of the frame, as thick as the door. In that piece, you then place the hinge just like hinges are normally placed. Then you can open the door 180 degrees.
I have a, probably simple, problem concerning hinges. I have a small hobby greenhouse that will have a very simple door made from 25*48 timber. So, no robust constructions here, and the choice of materials can certainly be discussed but that's the plan. It's not really a greenhouse, you could say.
I want it to be an overlay and only have the outer side of the door frame to attach to. And I don't want to use butt hinges. What options do I have then? I don't feel I've thought this through enough and hinges are normally my arch-enemy, as it never turns out the way I planned. So wise tips and advice are gladly received.
Perhaps I should add that I won't have the option to recess them into the frame either.
As I understand it, you're not very skilled in carpentry, but you've taken on the task of building a greenhouse with a door . That's the right spirit. It's the only way to get started and develop towards bigger challenges.
Anyway... to the question at hand. Nail together your frame and then fit the door frame. The absolutely easiest way is to screw on two hinges of suitable size directly on the outside. You will be able to open the door 180 degrees. It will look odd but works perfectly. If you want a parody of burglary protection, you can replace one of the screws with a 6mm carriage bolt with a nut and washer on the inside of the greenhouse.
The hinges in red on the picture. Absolutely don't use more than two hinges. If hinges aren't aligned exactly, it creates tensions that can tear things off fragile structures. With two, it can't go wrong.
Black, unfilled = walls/windows
Red = door frame
Blue = extra stud
Green = hinge
Black, filled = Door leaf, in two different positions
You can basically use any common hinges if you do it like this, even piano hinges. It might even be easier if you attach the hinges on the outside of the door leaf and stud, then you can press the door leaf in place and screw both "flaps" of the hinge simultaneously.
edit...
Why can't you display pdf documents as images and why can't I delete the pdf once I've posted it in the message...?
Wondering if I misunderstood the question and made it more complicated...?
What do you mean by "surface-mounted"? Is it like the way I've drawn above, or does it just mean that the door should open outward?
I thought of another thing when I read findus's post... If you're not very skilled with carpentry, it might be worth mentioning that if you're going to build a door, regardless of the dimension of the wood, you should put a diagonal brace in the door frame. If you look at findus's picture, it should go from the upper right to the lower left corner. This is done to prevent the "non-hinge side" from sagging over time.
If this explanation was almost insulting, I apologize.
In relation to most others on the forum, I'm not skilled at all; compared to an average Swede, I'm probably quite okay. I understand that the question doesn't give that impression though.
Tory, your solution could work. Not very aesthetically pleasing, but I should have let that go a long time ago and focused on functionality. I have oblique bracing in mind too, having some hanging gate on my conscience =)
Findus, I find it hard to see how it would be surface-mounted in the way you describe it? Maybe I'm missing something though.
My original thought was if there was a hinge like the one below that I've never used and could work for the purpose.
If the door is to sit on the outside of the wall (as in toRy's picture), you attach a stud beside it and a 'regular' flat hinge. Either as in the picture, or on the outside. If the door is to sit in the actual opening (as in findu's picture), you also use a regular flat hinge. In both cases, you will be able to open the door 180 degrees.
Avoid angled hinges as much as possible. The screw is far from the hinge's axis, making it much weaker. A strip that is as thick as the adjacent door solves the problem. Just as Useless writes. Then you can measure and place the hinges on the edge, or take the easiest route. Place the door alongside the strip on a bench or a couple of sawhorses and screw on a couple (2) of straight flat hinges on the outside, then fasten the strip with the door afterward.
Regards, Findus
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Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.
. That's the right spirit. It's the only way to get started and develop towards bigger challenges.
