It "licks" the cliff, so it will have difficulty with braces.
4 meters isn't set in stone, can make it shorter too. The timber is bought in 4.8 lengths, then I'll work with a length where the sway is acceptable.
I can state that in the fastening there's a bit of margin with a threaded rod M20.
4 meters isn't set in stone, can make it shorter too. The timber is bought in 4.8 lengths, then I'll work with a length where the sway is acceptable.
I can state that in the fastening there's a bit of margin with a threaded rod M20.
The attachment of your wooden structure to the steel bracket will be a critical point. Then the question is whether 30000 N is really something that the post fastener is secured to the rock with if you cycle the load.D Derbyboy said:
Regardless, a steel beam would be a healthier frame if you want to be able to load the bridge significantly. But if you're just going out for a swim, maybe it doesn't matter if it sways a little.
Cycles the load, not really sure what you mean. But if I can get the threaded rod with the mass, it should handle over 3000N; in addition, I have a post base with an M12 bolt straight through the beam.
I might also go up to a beam of 100x200 but it will be cumbersome to lug around.
I might also go up to a beam of 100x200 but it will be cumbersome to lug around.
Ok, thanks.
Steel is not an option. Unfortunately, the bridge is very inaccessible.
I was planning to use the bridge to get on and off a boat. The reason I want such a large transition is that the water level varies quite a lot throughout the year.
Steel is not an option. Unfortunately, the bridge is very inaccessible.
I was planning to use the bridge to get on and off a boat. The reason I want such a large transition is that the water level varies quite a lot throughout the year.
I interpret it as you don't intend to place 3000 kg at the end of the jetty, but want to understand how much you can place there without exceeding these 3000 kg for the fastening.
It's difficult to identify loads in practice, cyclical loads, wind, etc. Therefore, there are often various load cases to design against, as well as a number of safety factors to consider. Apply a factor of 5 or so on the fastening for your expected maximum load on the jetty and it should hold. Note should.
It's difficult to identify loads in practice, cyclical loads, wind, etc. Therefore, there are often various load cases to design against, as well as a number of safety factors to consider. Apply a factor of 5 or so on the fastening for your expected maximum load on the jetty and it should hold. Note should.
I would probably say a factor of 10. But if the jetty is built symmetrically with two beams each with its own attachment (or perhaps several?), then the allowed load would still be 600 kg. That's a lot.Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
The jetty will be stiffer and more stable if it is attached to the rock in more places than at 10 cm and 200 cm. Perhaps every 50 cm.
I'm taking note
Yes, I understand it's difficult to make an exact calculation, but that's exactly it, I wanted to get a sense of whether I might need to go up to M24 when it comes to the threaded rod.
I suspect I might ultimately end up with a bridge around 3.5m, where the sway is acceptable. At that length, the maximum load is a bit over 3 tons.
But there are two different factors
When the attachment fails and when the sway is unacceptable.
Yes, I understand it's difficult to make an exact calculation, but that's exactly it, I wanted to get a sense of whether I might need to go up to M24 when it comes to the threaded rod.
I suspect I might ultimately end up with a bridge around 3.5m, where the sway is acceptable. At that length, the maximum load is a bit over 3 tons.
But there are two different factors
When the attachment fails and when the sway is unacceptable.
I also agree with a factor of 10. I'm always for margins when it comes to dimensioning.Byurn said:
The bridge will have three beams, girders with a spacing of 70 cm. Two of the beams will be able to be secured with multiple fastening points, either with through threaded rods or with L-shaped post shoes.
M24 means you make a larger hole in the timber as well. And the load in that cross-section is probably a sensitive point.
You might consider having a threaded rod on each side of the beams and a steel washer in between so that you clamp the beam instead of drilling into it.
You might consider having a threaded rod on each side of the beams and a steel washer in between so that you clamp the beam instead of drilling into it.
Ahh that's not so bad.
Then I need to get hold of acid-resistant flat iron…. but oh well. However, it will be twice as many threaded rods at 300 kr.
Then I need to get hold of acid-resistant flat iron…. but oh well. However, it will be twice as many threaded rods at 300 kr.
mm I get it, it's smart but expensive!
Potentially, I also had an idea to fill concrete between the "compartments" that the beams form. Then threaded rod horizontally through the wooden beams.
Potentially, I also had an idea to fill concrete between the "compartments" that the beams form. Then threaded rod horizontally through the wooden beams.