Hi, I hope I'm in the right forum to some extent.
Does anyone know how I can fix this in the nicest (and easiest) way, the strip is not close to the wall when we've nailed it.
Putty? White silicone? Wood? All solutions are welcome except redoing the whole door frame.
 
  • Door trim not flush with wall, creating a visible gap; seeking advice on best repair method without replacing door frame, options include filler or silicone.
  • Door trim not flush with wall, showing gap; looking for easy solutions without redoing door frame.
O Olivia Mikaelsson said:
Hi, I hope I have come to somewhat the right forum.
Does anyone know how I can fix this in the nicest (and simplest) way, the trim is not flush against the wall when we nailed it in.
Putty? White silicone? Wood? All solutions are welcome except redoing the entire door frame.
Of course, I will be painting the frame and trim in the near future.
 
Quarter strip? Acrylic sealant?
 
How is it nailed seems a bit like yours is sitting a bit crooked. If it couldn't be fixed, I would have used a baseboard nailed through the trim and then covered the rest with latex caulk.
Just a question, when you lay the molding on a floor, is it completely straight? Quite often, moldings warp during painting.
 
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Try to nail closer to the frame but still at the edge of the trim,
It's probably not wood that the nail is gripping onto where you have nailed.
If it just grips the wood then you can bend in the trim but at the cost of the jernkng opening, so you still can't avoid bringing out filler/latex sealant.
Absolutely do not use silicon as it is not paintable.
 
T topmount said:
How is it nailed, looks like yours is a bit crooked. If it couldn't be fixed, I'd have bottomed with a list nailed through the trim and then covered the rest with latex caulk.
Just a question when you're laying, is the list on a floor completely straight? Quite often, lists warp when painting.
T topmount said:
How is it nailed, looks like yours is a bit crooked. If it couldn't be fixed, I'd have bottomed with a list nailed through the trim and then covered the rest with latex caulk.
Just a question when you're laying, is the list on a floor completely straight? Quite often, lists warp when painting.
should be straight, however the nail is quite far towards the opening, since it's concrete further out.

This list was up before and it was a bit the same thing then, hence my guess that the wall is uneven (old house) it's the same thing on the other side of the wall on the same side too.
 
L L-OFast said:
Try nailing closer to the frame but still on the outer edge of the trim,
It's probably not wood that the nail is anchoring into where you've nailed.
If it just gets anchored in wood, you can bend the trim, but with the cost of the jernkng opening, so you still can't avoid bringing out the filler/latex sealant.
Absolutely do not use silicone as it is not paintable.
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, I can't nail on the outer edge as it is concrete.
It's likely the door frame and wall construction causing this.
 
If it is not enough to just nail it on the outer edge, the only solution is probably to remove it again and plane down the edge so it rests not in the middle of the moulding but on both edges.
 
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Tip! Drill and insert a wooden dowel into the concrete wall, then nail the trim into it. I usually use a 7.5mm drill bit and 8mm dowel.
 
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richardtenggren
I have used nail plugs (for clips) when gluing moldings, to get some pressure. Which worked fine, though a bit tricky as you need to hit the right spot. Another time I used small nail plugs intended for moldings, which I countersunk and filled over, worked very well.
 
Latex joint, painter's sealant.
 
An alternative if you don't want to use wooden dowels is to apply adhesive to the strip before nailing it. Apply pressure to the strip for a while using a prop/old piece of wood/curtain rod, whatever you have. Then use latex caulk on the edge.
 
It looks like the frame is not level with the wall but is a bit inside the wall.
It's better if the frame is a bit outside the wall.
This can probably be arranged by "building out" the frame with a smyglist, preferably 8x21 mm, between the frame and trim so that the trim does not "ride" on the edge of the wall. It is preferably complemented with glue between the wall and trim when you secure the trim with nails/brads through the smyglist into the frame.
https://www.byggmax.se/smyglist-p08668015
 
I have renovated my hallway with plastered walls on lightweight concrete where the door frames were mounted before plastering. To make it work, I had to rout out extra on the back of the trim and use a combination of glue and nails, and then press it while the glue dried.
A close-up of a cross-section of wood molding with a cut-out groove on the backside, used in a hallway renovation project.
 
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