Don't know if hot glue is the solution here, but I thought all hot glues were the same (i.e., from Jula or CO), I've only used it for cardboard models/templates for houses and didn't think much about it. Bosch has a set of different types of hot glue, including one type (which I haven't tried) that is supposed to have extra good adhesion. It might be common knowledge and just something I've missed, but it seemed pretty good.
Have used about 30 tubes of PL600 and wow, what a great adhesive. It sets quickly and can be wiped off with water. An advantage when you spill or press together and adhesive is squeezed out. (unlike others that must be removed mechanically). PL600 does require one surface to be absorbent. For example, I've glued window sills to the end grain of the panel with PL600, and they don't come off easily. There was no room for screws (velfac windows). However, I don't know anything about the long-term effect as the items have only been in place for 2 years.
When I glue something, I want it to stick like a rock. In that case, PL600 is the wrong choice. For example, a colleague of mine had to replace a larger number of countertops on a construction site. These were glued with PL600, and all of them could be torn off with just bare hands.
Now I have laid half the staircase and used Sika T2. It works excellently and sets very quickly. So far, it seems to stick well. I laid out strips, pressed the step in place, and tapped a little with an MDF piece + non-rebound mallet, then I stood on it for a short while. Seems great.
Well, I think you are slightly mistaken there... My father is also working on Stepkit right now, but in his papers it says NO WAY for water-soluble glue, precisely for the reason you mentioned. He received glue tubes that were of some naphtha-soluble kind. PL400 has cured enough overnight to be able to walk on... then that it takes up to 4 days to cure completely is another matter.Daniel_N said:
Well... I wrote that solvent-based is wrong. Not that water-based is right. Water-based is also wrong, for the same reason as solvent-based is wrong. Instead, the glue should be of MS-polymer type, such as polyurethane adhesive._bystrom_ said:Well, I think you might be a bit mistaken... My father is also currently working with Stepkit, and in his papers, it says NO WAY for water-soluble glue, exactly for the reason you mentioned. He was sent glue tubes, and they were of some kind of naphtha-soluble type. PL400 probably sets enough overnight to walk on it...but it takes up to 4 days to fully cure, which is another matter.
Sikabond T2, which I've used, grabs immediately and doesn't need to be held in place with weights or clamps. This is not the case with PL400.
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· Västra Götaland
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I'm bringing up this old thread again. How are the prices of the different adhesives? For example, if you compare Sika T2 for a normal-sized staircase (U-staircase at home) with some polyurethane adhesive? Have you bought from the hardware store or special ordered?
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· Västra Götaland
· 1 709 posts
In the end, it was the tubes that Hornbach sells together with the ready-made staircase renovation kits. I think it's called "All-fix" something, for about 70 SEK per tube. I can return with a review once I've tried them.
hello!
why buy this ridiculously expensive renovation kit? :S
this is how my staircase turned out, scroll down a bit in the pictures to see before/after!!!
http://www.minhembio.com/speedomac/29955/
regarding the gluing, I used PL400, a bead around and a little zigzag in the middle.
then I used hot glue that you've been talking about in the thread all the time to make it *grab* immediately. :O
as simple as that.
I built my stairs with 14 mm oak parquet and the stair nosing 56mm oak molding...d^_^b
regards
estwing
why buy this ridiculously expensive renovation kit? :S
this is how my staircase turned out, scroll down a bit in the pictures to see before/after!!!
http://www.minhembio.com/speedomac/29955/
regarding the gluing, I used PL400, a bead around and a little zigzag in the middle.
then I used hot glue that you've been talking about in the thread all the time to make it *grab* immediately. :O
as simple as that.
I built my stairs with 14 mm oak parquet and the stair nosing 56mm oak molding...d^_^b
regards
estwing
there was only wood glue applied, then you shoot with the listpistol.....Stefan N said:
you start from the stair nose with the parquet, that is not the male *tongue* but the female...
then you have a straight nice edge to go against...
hope my explanation works?
best regards
estwing
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 1 709 posts
It was only the glue from the ready-made kits I bought, otherwise I plan to make the staircase as "estwing" did. However, with the difference that I'm not using oak parquet but instead a thin plywood with oak veneer on one side. This will then be coated with a durable lacquer for durability. The stair nosing will be solid in some form.