As I was planning to install step kits on the stairs myself, I contacted them about which adhesive to choose. The most important factor was that it was an MS Polymer that is elastic. Kiiltoflex K was one option, for example, and PL 200 was another. The price difference is significant as PL 200 is half as expensive as Kiiltoflex K.
The guy at Step kit said it would be excellent to use PL 200 since he knew of several stairs that had been glued with it.
Additionally, you should lay the strings between the front and back edges with a 2-3 cm gap. One tube of adhesive would be enough for about 2 steps if the stairs are open.
Best regards,
The guy at Step kit said it would be excellent to use PL 200 since he knew of several stairs that had been glued with it.
Additionally, you should lay the strings between the front and back edges with a 2-3 cm gap. One tube of adhesive would be enough for about 2 steps if the stairs are open.
Best regards,
I have added more stepkit (and similar) since I started the thread. I would undoubtedly choose Sika T2 again, incredibly well-suited for the task with its quick adhesion, MS polymer type, and suitably viscous consistency.
I also called around to various glue manufacturers and asked which glue they recommended, and in Sika's case, they recommended Sikabond AT Universal for bonding in stairs.
I myself have no idea since I haven't been in contact with any of the glues, but I'm just conveying what the different manufacturers recommended ;o)
For my part, it will probably be PL 200 since it was a recommended glue + it only costs 70:- at Jula. But in the end, it might not matter what you use...I have no idea ;o)
By the way, I wonder if you cut the steps with a fine-toothed circular saw or if you cut by hand?
I'm considering a "Japansåg" myself since they supposedly leave an incredibly fine cut, but it's the same here, I've never tested such a saw ;o)
I myself have no idea since I haven't been in contact with any of the glues, but I'm just conveying what the different manufacturers recommended ;o)
For my part, it will probably be PL 200 since it was a recommended glue + it only costs 70:- at Jula. But in the end, it might not matter what you use...I have no idea ;o)
By the way, I wonder if you cut the steps with a fine-toothed circular saw or if you cut by hand?
I'm considering a "Japansåg" myself since they supposedly leave an incredibly fine cut, but it's the same here, I've never tested such a saw ;o)
I used a plunge saw on a guide rail with a fine-toothed blade (even though there's some ripping involved, it's not a problem with a fine-toothed blade, as the material is so thin). Unfortunately, my saw only has a 50mm cutting depth, which meant I couldn't cut through the entire stair nosing. So, I cut as deep as I could and finished the rest with a Japanese saw. There are a multitude of Japanese saws for cutting/ripping/fine-toothed/with a back, etc. A fine-toothed cut-off saw without a back and without set is my recommendation. The cutting is done "from the back side" so that the cut on the front (i.e., the outside of the stair nosing) is clean.
What do you think is best among the following saws https://webshop.ahlsell.com/vivp/index.jsp;jsessionid=3F975C6C82821007F2DED2CD92CD97D2#idx-9-391
or https://webshop.ahlsell.com/vivp/index.jsp;jsessionid=3F975C6C82821007F2DED2CD92CD97D2#idx-12-824
I saw that the saw with a spine was also available without a spine, but then the blade was 0.6mm instead of 0.3mm.
A möbelsnickare once told me that if you cut the wood fibers with a utility knife before sawing, the result would be perfect. However, I have not tested it either but will do so when it's time for laying the steps ;o)
or https://webshop.ahlsell.com/vivp/index.jsp;jsessionid=3F975C6C82821007F2DED2CD92CD97D2#idx-12-824
I saw that the saw with a spine was also available without a spine, but then the blade was 0.6mm instead of 0.3mm.
A möbelsnickare once told me that if you cut the wood fibers with a utility knife before sawing, the result would be perfect. However, I have not tested it either but will do so when it's time for laying the steps ;o)
Unfortunately, I can't access Ahlsell's site to view the saws. A back saw won't work because the cutting depth will be too large (the back will hit). You don't need to buy an expensive Japanese saw to solve this—if this is the only project you'll use the saw for; otherwise, it's just as well to invest in quality immediately.
Scoring with a knife before sawing is a good tip that drastically reduces wood splitting. However, it’s not necessary if you're sawing with a plunge saw, as the cut will be perfect anyway; trying to score before sawing will only risk scoring something next to the cut line.
I also don't score before small cuts with a Japanese saw; as long as you saw with a good saw from the right angle, the cut will be perfect.
Scoring with a knife before sawing is a good tip that drastically reduces wood splitting. However, it’s not necessary if you're sawing with a plunge saw, as the cut will be perfect anyway; trying to score before sawing will only risk scoring something next to the cut line.
I also don't score before small cuts with a Japanese saw; as long as you saw with a good saw from the right angle, the cut will be perfect.
I'll try this way instead ;o)
Saw 1.
Japan saw Bahco PC99/17PS
Double-sided "pull saw" for cutting in fine material. Extra fine teeth on one side allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.5 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth on the fine-toothed side. Ergonomic two-component handle.
Saw 2.
Japan saw Bahco PC1214PS
"Pull saw" for cutting in fine material. Extra fine teeth allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.6 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth. Ergonomic two-component handle.
Saw 3.
Japan saw Bahco PC1119PS
Back saw for "pull sawing" in fine material. Extra fine teeth allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.3 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth. Ergonomic two-component handle.
The price difference between the saws is negligible, around 300:-. I want the most suitable saw
I don't have a plunge saw, but the idea of buying Wolfcraft's rail with accompanying sled has been in my mind for a while. However, I don't know how good it will be.
Saw 1.
Japan saw Bahco PC99/17PS
Double-sided "pull saw" for cutting in fine material. Extra fine teeth on one side allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.5 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth on the fine-toothed side. Ergonomic two-component handle.Saw 2.
Japan saw Bahco PC1214PS
"Pull saw" for cutting in fine material. Extra fine teeth allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.6 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth. Ergonomic two-component handle.Saw 3.
Japan saw Bahco PC1119PS
Back saw for "pull sawing" in fine material. Extra fine teeth allow the saw to be used for cutting, for example, plastic pipes. 0.3 mm blade. Induction hardened teeth. Ergonomic two-component handle.The price difference between the saws is negligible, around 300:-. I want the most suitable saw
I don't have a plunge saw, but the idea of buying Wolfcraft's rail with accompanying sled has been in my mind for a while. However, I don't know how good it will be.
The middle variant (i.e. PC-12-14-PS) will work best for this task. The lower one has, as mentioned, a back and I wouldn't recommend the upper variant, having teeth on the top side is often an easy way to cause scratches in all the wrong places.
Then it's time to tackle the oak steps. I've tried making a template of one step in cardboard, and I'm not quite satisfied with the result. The gaps on the sides are too big for my liking, but maybe it's supposed to be that way. The gaps are about 1mm at the back of the step and almost flush with the stringer at the front.
I will try making a template in sheet material too, as it might be easier.
My question is how large your gaps are on the sides, and if you have applied latex as it should be according to the instructions?
I'm unsure if my standards are too high
I will try making a template in sheet material too, as it might be easier.
My question is how large your gaps are on the sides, and if you have applied latex as it should be according to the instructions?
I'm unsure if my standards are too high
The precision mainly depends on patience and accuracy, but also on the equipment. I use a plunge saw + rail and a really good metal stair compass. I believe stepkit recommends a gap of 0.5-1.0mm on each side, which is a good starting point. If I know the stairs/house don't move much, I usually have a gap of about 0.3mm on each side and then use latex. It should be noted that I am an incredibly meticulous person with very high standards.
For the sake of appearance, it's more important that the joint is uniformly thick (at the front and back) and the same size on all steps rather than extremely thin.
I don't think you should be too discouraged by poor results with paper; I don't think it's so easy to get it right.
I always screw the stair compass into the tread, as you get a really good measurement. Starting with the widest steps is also a good idea - if it's not completely 100%, you can use the piece on a narrower step and get another chance.
For the sake of appearance, it's more important that the joint is uniformly thick (at the front and back) and the same size on all steps rather than extremely thin.
I don't think you should be too discouraged by poor results with paper; I don't think it's so easy to get it right.
I always screw the stair compass into the tread, as you get a really good measurement. Starting with the widest steps is also a good idea - if it's not completely 100%, you can use the piece on a narrower step and get another chance.
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I'm afraid I suffer from the same problem as you, having incredibly high standards and sometimes it takes a long time before I get there
But in this case, I only have one chance.
The compass I use is Stepkit's own in plastic, probably not the best
A brilliant idea to screw it down, I'll do that too....
I don't have a plunge saw, but I bought the Japanese saw we talked about earlier, so that'll be it
Do you get the perfect cut every time or do you have to sand a little sometimes?
But in this case, I only have one chance.
The compass I use is Stepkit's own in plastic, probably not the best
A brilliant idea to screw it down, I'll do that too....
I don't have a plunge saw, but I bought the Japanese saw we talked about earlier, so that'll be it
Do you get the perfect cut every time or do you have to sand a little sometimes?
I don't know how stepkit's plastic version is; the last time I used stepkit, it came with a pretty lousy wooden version.
I only used the Japanese saw to cut the final few centimeters in the stair nose that the plunge saw didn't reach. It's possible to cut everything with a Japanese saw, but it will be a challenge (you'll also become skilled at sawing by hand ). I recommend you test cut some scraps before starting for real. One problem with the Japanese saw is that it provides a fine surface on the "backside" - not an issue when I was only cutting off the last bit of the stair nose, but it can cause some splinters when cutting the entire step with it. You'll need to experiment. Do you have a circular saw that you can run along a guide?
The cut turns out well every time (with both the plunge saw and the Japanese saw - but then I've been able to cut from the right direction), I haven't needed to do any sanding.
I only used the Japanese saw to cut the final few centimeters in the stair nose that the plunge saw didn't reach. It's possible to cut everything with a Japanese saw, but it will be a challenge (you'll also become skilled at sawing by hand
). I recommend you test cut some scraps before starting for real. One problem with the Japanese saw is that it provides a fine surface on the "backside" - not an issue when I was only cutting off the last bit of the stair nose, but it can cause some splinters when cutting the entire step with it. You'll need to experiment. Do you have a circular saw that you can run along a guide?The cut turns out well every time (with both the plunge saw and the Japanese saw - but then I've been able to cut from the right direction), I haven't needed to do any sanding.
Mmm...I might become a devil at hand sawing
I have a circular saw, but a carpenter who installs renovation kits himself recommended hand sawing. I was thinking of using the circular saw until I talked to him, but maybe I should rethink
The circular saw is a big guy with a 190mm blade, but it might work even if it's delicate work that needs to be done. I bought a new 40-tooth blade before I talked to the carpenter
I'm going to take new measurements with the compass screwed on and try to make a template in sheet material now that the wife is coming home to take care of the kids
I have a circular saw, but a carpenter who installs renovation kits himself recommended hand sawing. I was thinking of using the circular saw until I talked to him, but maybe I should rethink
The circular saw is a big guy with a 190mm blade, but it might work even if it's delicate work that needs to be done. I bought a new 40-tooth blade before I talked to the carpenter
I'm going to take new measurements with the compass screwed on and try to make a template in sheet material now that the wife is coming home to take care of the kids
The template is fixed and it turned out perfect after a bit of tweaking and the Japanese saw was put to good use
However, it pinched a little on the side, so I sanded the cut surface with the mouse until it slipped into place with minimal gap. I'm really happy that it went well and will proceed for real tomorrow.
It's a pity that the template can't be used for more than one step as the slightest deviation between the steps becomes apparent immediately.
I have to work without a template on the other steps, otherwise, it will probably take too long before I'm done
I will surely come back with new questions and thoughts....
However, it pinched a little on the side, so I sanded the cut surface with the mouse until it slipped into place with minimal gap. I'm really happy that it went well and will proceed for real tomorrow.
It's a pity that the template can't be used for more than one step as the slightest deviation between the steps becomes apparent immediately.
I have to work without a template on the other steps, otherwise, it will probably take too long before I'm done
I will surely come back with new questions and thoughts....