Hello!
I am going to install Stepkit in a "closed" staircase (i.e., both tread and riser). I was thinking of installing the treads first and then the riser. This way, I imagine I gain an advantage, because any poor fit between the existing riser and the back edge of the tread is concealed by the new riser, while the upper edge of the new riser is hidden by the tread nose of the new tread one step up.
That you glue the treads and then weigh them down with suitable weights, and possibly nail a temporary strip along the edge, I could figure out.
But how do I hold the riser in place while the glue dries on this? Since I have already installed the tread (whose back edge is concealed by the current riser), it becomes difficult to attach a block or something to wedge or brace against.
I’m thinking about a small strip that is temporarily nailed into both stringers, which holds, for example, a straight 45x120 that in turn presses against the riser.
I talked to a guy who used to install Stepkit, and he used to apply glue and then fasten the steps with a brad nailer. The treads through the tread nose and the risers at the top, under the tread nose belonging to the next tread. However, I don't like the idea. On the treads, it can show, and on the risers, I get nothing that holds the riser at the bottom edge, and the existing riser is only thin plywood, so there's nothing to nail into either.
What do you recommend? How should I attach the riser? Is it wrong to install the treads first and the risers later… I can imagine it might be easier to install the risers first, with a couple of brads at the top and then clamping in with the tread at the bottom... but then, as I said, there is a higher risk of not achieving a 100% fit, I think.
Grateful for any input.
I am going to install Stepkit in a "closed" staircase (i.e., both tread and riser). I was thinking of installing the treads first and then the riser. This way, I imagine I gain an advantage, because any poor fit between the existing riser and the back edge of the tread is concealed by the new riser, while the upper edge of the new riser is hidden by the tread nose of the new tread one step up.
That you glue the treads and then weigh them down with suitable weights, and possibly nail a temporary strip along the edge, I could figure out.
But how do I hold the riser in place while the glue dries on this? Since I have already installed the tread (whose back edge is concealed by the current riser), it becomes difficult to attach a block or something to wedge or brace against.
I’m thinking about a small strip that is temporarily nailed into both stringers, which holds, for example, a straight 45x120 that in turn presses against the riser.
I talked to a guy who used to install Stepkit, and he used to apply glue and then fasten the steps with a brad nailer. The treads through the tread nose and the risers at the top, under the tread nose belonging to the next tread. However, I don't like the idea. On the treads, it can show, and on the risers, I get nothing that holds the riser at the bottom edge, and the existing riser is only thin plywood, so there's nothing to nail into either.
What do you recommend? How should I attach the riser? Is it wrong to install the treads first and the risers later… I can imagine it might be easier to install the risers first, with a couple of brads at the top and then clamping in with the tread at the bottom... but then, as I said, there is a higher risk of not achieving a 100% fit, I think.
Grateful for any input.
First the tread and then the riser, I think that's the most suitable. It's the easiest way to make it tight everywhere it's visible.
What glue are you planning to use?
I've used Sika's T2 mounting adhesive on a couple of stairs and I think it grips so well that no additional fixing is needed. If you want, you can put a couple of brads behind the stair nose to keep the pressure down if the tread is a bit stubborn.
What glue are you planning to use?
I've used Sika's T2 mounting adhesive on a couple of stairs and I think it grips so well that no additional fixing is needed. If you want, you can put a couple of brads behind the stair nose to keep the pressure down if the tread is a bit stubborn.
Now, I have never held a Stepkit and therefore do not know how thick the riser pieces are. I imagine that they are quite thin, say like 8mm laminate flooring or something. Then I would probably simply find a suitable glue and tap the pieces in place with a rubber mallet.
Unfortunately, I am not an expert on glue, but there are products for most things. If you use something contact adhesive-like applied to both surfaces and let it dry before pressing the riser in place, it is likely to bond incredibly well.
Unfortunately, I am not an expert on glue, but there are products for most things. If you use something contact adhesive-like applied to both surfaces and let it dry before pressing the riser in place, it is likely to bond incredibly well.
Stepkit is really expensive. Isn't it better to buy parquet with stair nosing instead? My father did that in a staircase, installed the risers last. It was a U-shaped staircase, so he had some sawing to do, but it turned out really nice. No idea what he glued with...
I'm not very familiar with step kits, but if you want to glue with an adhesive that requires some pressure, there are a few types of clamps for that. The risk is that you push apart the stringers, and ideally, it would be best to have a wall on both sides. Place a clamp across, lock it, and then use other pushing clamps to secure the step. For lateral strength, I would use long M20 bolts, coupling nuts, and a sturdy plank for the rest. But you have to be careful not to apply too much force, as you become quite strong this way.
Though I would have probably gone for a glue that grips immediately, actually, like phl's method with contact adhesive or ACME's with tube adhesive.
I don't think I can say anything about the order.
I don't think I can say anything about the order.
Now, I'm no expert on glue either, but it definitely sounds reasonable. If everything is completely flat, a contact adhesive would stick firmly, I imagine. Assuming an older staircase is perfectly flat might be a bit optimistic, though.
Isn't PL600 an adhesive (compared to PL200 and 400) that offers strong adhesion right away? I believe you can even hang relatively heavy items on a wall with that glue without support. That's what I remember reading, but it might not work in practice if that's true.
EDIT:
I looked up PL600, and it matches what I remembered, though it's not recommended for areas with impact absorption (read steps). There, it seems PL400 is preferred.
Isn't PL600 an adhesive (compared to PL200 and 400) that offers strong adhesion right away? I believe you can even hang relatively heavy items on a wall with that glue without support. That's what I remember reading, but it might not work in practice if that's true.
EDIT:
I looked up PL600, and it matches what I remembered, though it's not recommended for areas with impact absorption (read steps). There, it seems PL400 is preferred.
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I have used PL600 for many things mainly because it is not based on foul-smelling solvents. I don't think it's that insanely good although I have actually vertically mounted a few pieces of laminate shaft (according to the method with a rubber mallet) with it. I would go for PL400 or perhaps even more specialized glue for the purpose.
Thanks for all the answers!
PL400 and other solvent-based adhesives are out of the question, as the evaporation of the solvent can cause the step kit to swell/change shape. Additionally, in my experience, PL400 takes far too long to dry, with no quick adhesion.
I have now ordered SIKA T2 assembly adhesive recommended by ACME. I'm going to start by trying to attach everything without pressure - in fact, that's what the instructions from the step kit suggested (which I received after starting this thread), even though I couldn't find it on their website. On the other hand, much of the info from them seems a bit too optimistic, so we'll see how it goes. I hope I can avoid using Mr. Handyman's monster clamp…I only have a wall on one side.
I will also attach the tread first and then the riser.
I'll come back with a report and pictures gradually!
PL400 and other solvent-based adhesives are out of the question, as the evaporation of the solvent can cause the step kit to swell/change shape. Additionally, in my experience, PL400 takes far too long to dry, with no quick adhesion.
I have now ordered SIKA T2 assembly adhesive recommended by ACME. I'm going to start by trying to attach everything without pressure - in fact, that's what the instructions from the step kit suggested (which I received after starting this thread), even though I couldn't find it on their website. On the other hand, much of the info from them seems a bit too optimistic, so we'll see how it goes. I hope I can avoid using Mr. Handyman's monster clamp…I only have a wall on one side.
I will also attach the tread first and then the riser.
I'll come back with a report and pictures gradually!
If the instructions for the glue describe a method of application where the glue is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry to the touch before pressing together, I would choose that method. Normally, the glues bond incredibly well then.
Mm, actually thought about that...have done it sometimes in combination with PL400....but I've kind of given up on hot glue, I simply think I'm too bad with hot glue, it almost always ends with me having smeared it on basically everythingGzO said:
PL600 cuts almost as well as latex..