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37 replies
10k views
37 replies
Laminated wood frame
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
Everything is better in Östermalm, unfortunately there is no lumberyard here :/
Sounds like you've gotten your hands on regular 2t4 (45*95). Even though 2t4 is a godsend to us form carpenters 😜, it's never dried or of the quality to make frames out of. Call a smaller carpentry shop and they'll sort it out.
When I build a frame, I buy planed pine such as 22x95 and 22x45 and glue these together. With these two dimensions, I get a frame piece that is 44mm thick, 95mm deep, and has a rebate of 50mm. It turns out straight and fine, and no routers or special tools are needed.
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
There's so much fine dust from milling so much wood though, so I'd really like to avoid it.
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
You have to mill rounding if it should fit in style, but of course, it's not as much material as milling the entire rebate depth, thanks for all the tips, I'll look into this today.
It would be a dream to find "ready" frame pieces by the meter, and then you could mill the last bit yourself if you want some traditional milling, angle milling, or similar. The biggest "problem" is the rabbet milling with just a handheld router. You almost need a router table and preferably a larger spindle that can handle bigger router bits...
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
Right now, @verktygsgurun's method feels best, because with that solution you can fine-tune the depth of cut and you don't need to mill away large amounts of material, which creates dust.
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
planed pine? You can buy it in quite a few places, I have bought planed oak for a threshold and it was really straight, so it's probably possible to find planed pine that is also straight and doesn't warp.
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 357 posts
Yes exactly, and also rounds off edges so there is some work, but I actually think it's easier than trying to straighten warped frame wood
