Hello

I have a stove that charges a 500l tank which then charges the BVP with a diff pump.

The tank doesn't get warm at the bottom no matter how long I fire it, see picture for how it's connected.
There is a 63-degree thermostatic valve.

Grateful for help, the plumber can't solve it.
 
  • Hand-drawn schematic of a 5kW stove system showing connections to a 500L tank and components labeled "Laddomat LM9" and "11/30.
The burner is too weak . can't raise the temperature while you are extracting heat to the house, when extracting heat the tank cools down at the bottom and then needs to be heated by the burner. 500 l is a lot, what temperatures do you have on in/out burner.
 
I don't get any temperature at the bottom even when I'm not charging against the BVP, meaning charging is turned off.
I'm not taking anything out then, I should just be charging up 500l.
I get about 70 at the top of the tank, a maximum of 60 in the middle, and the bottom doesn't rise at all.

Thinking about reversing the charging and inputting at the bottom and outputting at the top, would that be better?
 
The bottom gets the temperature that the return has.
 
No temperature at the bottom even when the differential pump is off. So when the stove charges the tank, the bottom never gets warm. Spontaneously, I would want to reverse the circulation and load heat at the bottom, so the loading format gets warmer water and takes more from the tank? Currently, it feels like a large part goes around to the stove, and a very small part mixes with the accumulator tank. Like 30 degrees at the bottom and 63 degrees thermostat?
 
The one with the 63 C thermostat is not related to the temperature; the important thing is what temperature the pipe to the tank is. If the boiler cannot raise the temperature so the tank gets what it needs, you need to lower the pump's speed or slightly close a valve and try it out.
 
How much of the stove's 5kW goes to the tank versus becomes heat at the stove?
Where does the energy go if it doesn't heat the tank when you burn wood? How much wood is consumed?

Are the stove and accumulator tank at the same height?
 
J jonaserik said:
The 63 C thermostat doesn't affect the temperature; the important thing is the temperature of the pipe going to the tank. If the boiler can't get the temperature up so the tank gets its required heat, you might need to reduce the pump speed or slightly close a valve to test it.
No temperature reading on the incoming from the boiler but about 80-90 degrees, it feels like the return to the stove is almost as warm, which means it doesn't take much water from the tank (it's about 30 degrees at the bottom).
Closed the valve between 11/30 and incoming so that it should only take from the tank, but then it seems like the circulation almost stopped.
So it just feels like it doesn't circulate enough in the tank to heat up the bottom.
5kw should be enough to charge a 500l tank, right?
Even if the pump is running at max, the return is very warm.
 
blackarrow blackarrow said:
How much of the stove's 5kW goes to the tank and how much becomes heat at the stove?
Where does the energy go if it doesn't heat the tank when you are burning? How much wood is used?

Are the stove and accumulator tank at the same height?
It gives 5kw to the water.
The tank is a little lower, the pipes go down into the floor and then up again to the tank.
It heats the tank, but even if I've been burning all day, the gauge still reads 30 at the bottom,
When the middle and top are 65 and 75 respectively.
The return to the stove is very hot, which is why it feels like it's not drawing much return water from the tank to be efficient.
Maybe I should switch to 45-degree thermostat valves?
 
If the output isn't sufficient, it doesn't matter how you connect the pipes. What do you want to achieve with a reconnection?
 
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D Daniel 109 said:
If the power is not sufficient, it doesn't matter how you connect the pipes. What do you want to achieve with a reconnection?
Do you mean that the power is not sufficient?
The return from the fireplace is always scalding hot, regardless of how warm the tank is.
If it wasn't sufficient, it wouldn't be so hot.
I don't think it exchanges much with the tank; it just circulates in the loading system.
Air or a faulty thermostat, maybe, what do I know?
 
Well, the peak temperature is definitely higher than one would expect for such a thermostat. But the heat doesn't disappear anywhere.
 
If you are firing and it's not boiling when you're in that situation, you are obviously losing power/energy somewhere. It has nothing to do with your temperatures, it's not wrong to have a relatively warm return towards the stove. Measure both out and in against it, and you can estimate the effect, 5 kW is not a lot and if it's nominal, one can probably expect less in practice.
 
Have you checked if the pump is running?

I had the exact same problem in our previous house. No matter how long we kept the fire going, we couldn't get the temperature up in the tank. It turns out it was a combination of self-circulation to the radiators and hot water usage. The energy doesn't magically disappear somewhere, but if you're heating from 30 to 80-90 degrees, there's not a large flow with 5 kW, so it will take a long time to get it warm. Completely without consumption, it takes a long time to charge 500 l, and with just a little usage, it takes a very long time.

Edit:
500 l, 50 degrees becomes 30 kWh, which with 5 kW should take just under 10 hours...
 
”Mikethestrike” said:
Air or faulty thermostat maybe, what do I know?
Where is the pump located, visible or in a cabinet? It was a while ago when someone had the same issue, the pump was in a cabinet that no one thought of and was broken. Your pump should probably start on an adjustable thermostat, have you checked that it works as it should? Is the loading device OK, so the thermostat in it is not sticking/locked, then it becomes as it is now.
 
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