I have purchased ground anchors to drive into the ground and set posts in. After driving in two ground anchors out of 100, I've already encountered problems.

Problem number 1:
There's a lot of measuring with a spirit level on each side of the post to get it somewhat right. I know there are post levels, so-called "stolppass." Has anyone used these? Do they work well?

Problem number 2:
I use a post in the ground anchor to drive it into the ground. However, the post cracks quite easily and needs to be replaced. Since I have to drive in 100 ground anchors, I need to find a better solution. Are there posts designed for this purpose, or is there something you can put on the post to prevent it from cracking? How have you solved this problem?
 
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Norschan
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The classic way to avoid cracked posts is to slide a can over the end before striking. If it needs to hold for many posts, it's best to take a piece of adequately thick pipe and weld one end shut with a plate, about 5-10mm thick. For individual posts, holding a plank piece over the post works.

For tall posts, take a longer pipe and instead of the plate, weld a hefty chunk of about 10 kilos, along with handles a bit down. This way, no sledgehammer is needed; once the pipe is placed over the post, the pipe itself is used to strike by pulling it up and down over the post.

There are ready-made drivers available for purchase as well:
http://www.afsa.nu/stolpnedslagare-127mm-mellan/1277-0

What do ground anchors add compared to driving posts directly into the ground? It seems much simpler?
 
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Luftskeppet
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PNO said:
What do ground anchors add compared to driving the posts directly into the ground? It seems much simpler?
The posts are 95x95 and square. So they are not so easy to drive into the ground :-)

I neither have the knowledge nor equipment to weld. So maybe I should look at that ready-made variant. However, the problem becomes having to remove it all the time from the post when you need to check how straight it is.
 
Place a trash pole in the ground anchor with a bolt with a wing nut. Drive in the mess, replace the pole and move the trash pole further.
 
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Stromdahls
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Do you have a rubber mallet for wooden posts to hit with?
(It doesn't eliminate splintering, but it reduces it. Should make the sacrificial post last longer.)

Can't you use a plumb line instead of a level?
 
Depends on the condition of the ground, I guess, but when we have to put in a lot of posts, we use the tractor and push them down with the bucket.
 
P
I remember using a plastic striking block when I hammered down a bunch of ground anchors a few years ago. They were available both in 70x70 and 95x95. Worked super well.
 
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Bjober
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P
Exactly that one.
 
slacker said:
Do you mean something like this:

[link]
That would probably be a good option. The difficult part, however, will be to get it completely straight as it's not possible to use a spirit level.
 
Use a crowbar and a sledgehammer if needed. Then it is quite easy to knock down the ground anchor. Insert the post you need and level it by knocking down stones on the side it leans towards.
 
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Alsboy
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It works pretty well to straighten the posts when you then screw the boards onto the posts.
 
jumping in a bit on the thread (even if it's over a year old)

I'm in the middle of setting up a new fence and happen to encounter the ground anchor/post spike twisting, are there any good tricks to solve this? I guess it happens because of a stone or something similar getting in the way
 
When we built a fence a number of years ago (about 30x40 meters), we rented an earth auger and drilled with the smallest bit before driving down the posts. All the posts were driven straight and neatly in one day by two men. One side ran along a row of birch trees, and if we hadn't had the auger, we would still be there today pounding...
 
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tubengustaf
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One might perhaps take a ground anchor and cut the part that goes into the ground and then slide it upside down onto the sacrificial post. This might reduce the risk of splitting. However, since one strikes with a sledgehammer/pickaxe metal against metal, hearing protection would probably be a must.
 
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