Hello,
I am about to set up the new kitchen and have some thoughts on how to attach them. The wall consists of metal studs with single drywall, and the previous frames have been attached without problems since the building was built in '91. Now I am a bit unsure because I have read that many are hesitant to mount kitchen cabinets on drywall. How much load capacity can be expected from drywall expanders to bear? The cabinets previously seemed to be attached directly to the metal studs, how much load capacity do these actually have?
I would prefer not to install extra construction boards as there is a lack of centimeters before the countertop ends up against the door frame, so it's not in the plan.
Does anyone have an idea of the best way to attach the cabinets?
I am about to set up the new kitchen and have some thoughts on how to attach them. The wall consists of metal studs with single drywall, and the previous frames have been attached without problems since the building was built in '91. Now I am a bit unsure because I have read that many are hesitant to mount kitchen cabinets on drywall. How much load capacity can be expected from drywall expanders to bear? The cabinets previously seemed to be attached directly to the metal studs, how much load capacity do these actually have?
I would prefer not to install extra construction boards as there is a lack of centimeters before the countertop ends up against the door frame, so it's not in the plan.
Does anyone have an idea of the best way to attach the cabinets?
Remove the plaster and replace it with a building board, it will be hidden by the cabinets anyway.
Well then it would be OSB (which I assume you mean) to tile on and that doesn’t feel so good.
If you are going to hang something on a rail like Ikea, I would definitely aim to attach it to the studs. If you are going to have mounting points in each cabinet individually, it will be trickier. Theoretically, if you look at shear forces on perfectly set expanders, it should work, but the question is if it will be stable with margins.
You could always remove the plasterboard for a stretch at the mounting points on the upper cabinets' top edge and replace it with plywood attached to the studs. This should provide better conditions for mounting the cabinets.
You could always remove the plasterboard for a stretch at the mounting points on the upper cabinets' top edge and replace it with plywood attached to the studs. This should provide better conditions for mounting the cabinets.
I bought 2 sheets of plywood and cut them into 3 parts lengthwise, resulting in strips of 40 cm. Then I sawed out the corresponding part in the plaster where I wanted the fastening and placed the plywood instead. I also sawed strips of 10 cm to stabilize plaster/plywood.
I bought regular plywood as it grips much better than OSB.
I bought regular plywood as it grips much better than OSB.
What makes you uncertain? The cabinets have been on the current wall for 24 years without falling down. Does it appear to have moved inappropriately? If it has worked so far and you don't plan to have much heavier items in the cabinets, it's probably easiest to continue in the same way. It is strong because there is a large sheet over the entire wall. Cutting away drywall and replacing narrow strips with plywood won't necessarily be stronger. That way, the entire wall becomes weaker, and the cabinets have fewer attachment points in the studs. Having OSB behind the drywall is stronger, and it becomes easier to build, but there are also many examples where single-layer drywall is strong enough.
No, that's right, many kitchens are probably mounted with molly bolts into simple drywall, but older kitchens differ from today's. Previously, there was a mounting board behind the upper cabinets, so you could screw anywhere from the side, and for example, hit a stud. Nowadays, there are brackets in the cabinets attached to the sides, and they end up where they end up. If you're really unlucky, you might hit the edge of a steel stud, and then it's not fun to fit a molly bolt there, as the drill might slip to the side, and the hole won't be where it should. Previously, there was a tile strip that the cabinets rested on, which not many people have today. It's also not uncommon to fail with a molly bolt; you might get a cross-thread so the nut piece comes loose, and that's not pleasant. It's certainly quite a hassle to install plywood, but it's really nice once you actually have to put up the cabinets, just hold up and fasten, done.
Preferably set in the metal studs, use molly where it doesn't fit. It usually says on the molly how much weight they can take. They usually hold a lot of strength downwards but not so much out if you understand what I mean.