"Interior walls are not insulated when building new today"???

[Karl.s]

Have also thought about this. Can't you make a small hole at the top of each compartment and spray in loose-fill insulation or similar? Like 70mm and "quick-fix" the holes with box covers. Alternatively, remove the trim and make elongated holes.

 

[hapazard]

Have also thought about this. Is it not possible to make a small hole in the top of each compartment and spray in loose fill or similar?
Like 70mm and "patch" the holes with socket covers. Alternatively, remove the crown molding and make elongated holes.

Have also thought about this idea but it should probably be heavier insulation than loose fill for it to make any significant difference.

 

[jbernspang]

Owned a newly built condominium from 07-12. Empty interior walls there, but a walk-in closet between the bedrooms that made it reasonably soundproof anyway.

Now a 50s stone house with cast concrete slabs. Very well soundproofed 🙂

 

[SueCia]

Incredible that construction is done without insulation in interior walls, but it seems to be more common than actually having it...

 

[Fideliox]

At the same time, there's complaining about the lack of affordable housing... 🙆‍♂️

Lived in a house from the 40s before. It was completely lacking insulation. But during the oil crisis, they injected plastic pellets into the walls. Maybe there's something similar today?

 

[mojjen]

Dad bought a newly built apartment this year. No insulation. If you order modular houses, it's an extra cost with most, at least budget manufacturers.

So assuming rental apartments would have it is probably hoping for too much. The developer has only one interest, build cheaply, rent expensively. I'd like to see the landlord at the planning meeting ticking those extras. Even if you can get a more satisfied tenant, they probably won't get a higher rent.

If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. My house's latest extension, I've built a double wall with an air gap between the bedrooms and the TV room. However, that was out of self-preservation when it was planned that my wife and I would be neighbors with the teenage daughter.

 

[Magnus E K]

Hang thick rugs on both sides of the wall between the bedroom and TV room, or alternatively, place a sturdy bookshelf full of books there.

In my 1960s house, the interior wall between the bathroom and kitchen is insulated (and probably also the wall between the bathroom and bedroom) but not the other interior walls.

 

[mojjen]

Have also thought about this. Is it not possible to make a small hole at the top of each compartment and spray in loose-fill insulation or similar?
Like 70mm and "cheap fix" the holes with junction box covers. Alternatively, remove the ceiling molding and make elongated holes.

1. Theoretically possible if it's framed vertically. But in practice not so easy. Have loose-fill insulation. It's blown in with a machine, creates a lot of dust. Not particularly cheap as it requires a special machine. Then comes the next problem. Those junction box holes can be really expensive when it's time to move out. Hardly considered normal wear and tear, so you probably have to account for the cost of a full wall restoration.

In that case, I would probably see it as more realistic and likely cheaper to take down the drywall on one side, put in mineral wool, and drywall again. This time with double drywall.

The insulation primarily reduces structural noise, but the real soundproofing when it comes to sound transmission requires:
1. mass, which is achieved with more drywall.
2. airtight Check that there are no gaps anywhere. Install sealing strips on the doors. (Which, however, can negatively affect ventilation)
3. Avoid mechanical contact between walls and floors. This point is essentially impossible to achieve afterward. In short, you build the interior wall with staggered offset studs, where the drywall is attached to every other one, or a double wall with air in between. So that the drywall between the two rooms does not have physical contact with each other via the studs. Use soft caulking between the floor and wall to avoid sound transmission, etc.

Point 3 is therefore completely impossible to solve in an apartment, and challenging afterward in your own house too.
Point 1 is likely unrealistic. It is a major intervention. But if it's just one wall, it might be possible to add an extra layer of drywall on each side. This will dampen more than insulation.

Point 2, sealing gaps is quite simple though. Makes an incredibly big difference. Now it's almost certainly lightweight doors too. But if you want to invest, switch to a compact door or a solid door. Costs 2-3000:- easily to replace and also dampens significantly more.

 

[SueCia]

At the same time, there is complaining that no cheap housing is being built... 🙆‍♂️


I lived in a 1940s house before. It lacked insulation completely. But during the oil crisis, they sprayed plastic beads into the walls. Maybe there's something similar today?

What is really the additional cost of putting in 70mm of rock wool in the bedroom interior walls? It shouldn't be more than 3 interior walls unless the floor plan is odd.

Could it even be more than 15,000 SEK?

 

[fribygg]

What is really the additional cost of putting 70mm rock wool in the interior walls of the bedrooms? It shouldn't involve more than 3 interior walls unless the floor plan is odd.

Could it even amount to over 15,000kr?

If you have the extra money, neither building materials nor hired labor is expensive, but if you have to borrow, you should probably consider what is necessary.

 

[Harald Blåtumme]

What is really the additional cost of putting in 70mm mineral wool in the bedroom interior walls? It should not be more than 3 interior walls unless the floor plan is unusual.

Could it even amount to over 15,000kr?

The problem is that this single measure provides a marginal effect. As previously mentioned, at least double plasterboard (i.e., mass) is required to achieve a noticeable dampening effect.

 

[mojjen]

What is really the additional cost of putting 70mm of rock wool in the interior walls of the bedrooms? It shouldn't be more than 3 interior walls unless the layout is unusual.

Can it really cost more than 15,000kr?

But then you have to multiply that cost for all the walls in an entire rental property. It's less likely that only TS's room wall would be insulated. If they're building a rental building, it will probably apply to all or nothing.

 

[Robbman1]

The problem is that this single measure has a marginal effect. As previously mentioned, at least double plasterboard (i.e., mass) is needed to achieve a noticeable dampening effect.

If you have a standard wall with a 70s wood frame, single plasterboard per side, and add 45mm insulation, you get a 4dB better wall... from 31 to 35... if you add double plasterboard without ISO you get 39, with ISO 41.

 

[SueCia]

But then you have to multiply that cost to all the walls in an entire rental property. It's less likely that only TS's wall in one room would be insulated. If they build a rental house, it has to be all or nothing.

True, it definitely adds up to money. Anyway, an extremely stupid thing to save money on. Better a vinyl floor in the bathroom and insulated interior walls, than a tiled bathroom with uninsulated interior walls.

Because I seem to see that it's always tiles in bathrooms in new construction.

 

[Kalle B]

Wood shavings/sawdust don't insulate much against temperature, but maybe it could work against sound. If you want to drill and refill.