Hello,
I'm currently building an interior wall and have noticed that the holes created are much more visible than I thought.
I also live in a rental so I don't really want to make a lot of holes that it would otherwise create if I continue to screw the studs into the ceiling and walls. Is it possible to just screw the studs into the ceiling and then build everything on that, or does it also need to be anchored into the wall?
There are two walls being built, both with double gypsum, the only difference is that one wall will have a door installed. With the wall where the door will be, would it be possible to just anchor it in the ceiling?
The door weighs 55 kg.
I'm currently building an interior wall and have noticed that the holes created are much more visible than I thought.
I also live in a rental so I don't really want to make a lot of holes that it would otherwise create if I continue to screw the studs into the ceiling and walls. Is it possible to just screw the studs into the ceiling and then build everything on that, or does it also need to be anchored into the wall?
There are two walls being built, both with double gypsum, the only difference is that one wall will have a door installed. With the wall where the door will be, would it be possible to just anchor it in the ceiling?
The door weighs 55 kg.
Isn't it possible to make a solution with a stämp? I mean a wall that is clamped between the floor and the ceiling.
It is possible to clamp the wall against the ceiling and floor with bolt/nut, the wall is fastened as said
I have seen some concepts online with interior walls that are clamped against the ceiling and floor, so it's possible. However, I think one should place some soft material with high friction, such as rubber, between the interior wall's ceiling and floor beams and the existing ceiling and floor.
A cheap solution would be to cut the standing beams to the right height minus a few millimeters and then hammer in wooden wedges (e.g. for flooring) between the standing beam and the ceiling beam. Then saw off the protruding part of the wedge and attach angle braces with anchor screws on one or both inner corners between the ceiling beam/standing beam to secure the beams together.
When you put up the interior wall, you will probably need to remove the existing ceiling and floor moldings where the wall will stand. In that case, I would attach the floor/ceiling beams to the wall right there. Then the hole in the wall is hidden by the molding when you eventually reinstall it.
A cheap solution would be to cut the standing beams to the right height minus a few millimeters and then hammer in wooden wedges (e.g. for flooring) between the standing beam and the ceiling beam. Then saw off the protruding part of the wedge and attach angle braces with anchor screws on one or both inner corners between the ceiling beam/standing beam to secure the beams together.
When you put up the interior wall, you will probably need to remove the existing ceiling and floor moldings where the wall will stand. In that case, I would attach the floor/ceiling beams to the wall right there. Then the hole in the wall is hidden by the molding when you eventually reinstall it.
Hello,
Is there no risk that the wall will somehow "fall" or tilt slightly so that the ceiling and floor are pushed away over time?
It was a good suggestion, I think I'll do as pelpet suggests. However, I've already made two holes in the ceiling, so I might as well hang one of the walls. I was thinking of anchoring to the wall and then using double-sided tape ( http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Dubbelhäftande-monteringstejp-Spegel-Tesa/34-3980 ) on the floor beam, would that work in the long run?
The moldings unfortunately seem to be glued in some way and I don't really want to modify them, I'd rather saw so that the beams fit the moldings.
Is there no risk that the wall will somehow "fall" or tilt slightly so that the ceiling and floor are pushed away over time?
It was a good suggestion, I think I'll do as pelpet suggests. However, I've already made two holes in the ceiling, so I might as well hang one of the walls. I was thinking of anchoring to the wall and then using double-sided tape ( http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Dubbelhäftande-monteringstejp-Spegel-Tesa/34-3980 ) on the floor beam, would that work in the long run?
The moldings unfortunately seem to be glued in some way and I don't really want to modify them, I'd rather saw so that the beams fit the moldings.
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Just the weight of a hanging door causes a serious pull on a wall, so I believe it's good to secure the wall—preferably to the ceiling directly above the door. Otherwise, there shouldn't be much lateral force on a wall, but I would still want fixings—someone could fall into the wall, drive a piece of furniture into it, etc.
What kind of ceiling do you have? If it's a concrete ceiling, you can repair the holes later without it being noticeable as long as you have paint in the same shade. My repair after this little mishap is not visible at all. I filled the hole with filler and painted with the same color I previously painted the ceiling with.
What kind of ceiling do you have? If it's a concrete ceiling, you can repair the holes later without it being noticeable as long as you have paint in the same shade. My repair after this little mishap is not visible at all. I filled the hole with filler and painted with the same color I previously painted the ceiling with.
Oh, that's quite a big hole 
Yes, it's a concrete ceiling. Completely true as you say, just need to fill it and repaint
It will be anchored in the ceiling only + your idea of tapping wooden wedges into studs between the floor and ceiling to get pressure. That should be enough, I hope?
I'm curious, do the drywall walls contribute at all in terms of tensile strength? After all, they should hang about 2 mm above the floor on the wall. So they should pull a little in the direction they're hung, or is it balanced out by the corresponding side of the drywall walls?
Yes, it's a concrete ceiling. Completely true as you say, just need to fill it and repaint
It will be anchored in the ceiling only + your idea of tapping wooden wedges into studs between the floor and ceiling to get pressure. That should be enough, I hope?
I'm curious, do the drywall walls contribute at all in terms of tensile strength? After all, they should hang about 2 mm above the floor on the wall. So they should pull a little in the direction they're hung, or is it balanced out by the corresponding side of the drywall walls?
Your new interior wall is likely to stand on the existing floor, right? If so, the drywall on the new wall shouldn't be much of a problem; it will only bear a downward force.
Drywall is quite strong. You can hang fairly heavy objects with expanders on a drywall. So if you install some drywall expanders in the existing walls, replace the machine screws with longer screws of the same dimension, and then attach the vertical studs closest to the regular walls with longer machine screws and washers through drilled holes in the studs into the expanders, the wall should stand much more steadily.
Your landlord shouldn't complain, installing drywall expanders in walls falls within normal wear and tear.
Drywall is quite strong. You can hang fairly heavy objects with expanders on a drywall. So if you install some drywall expanders in the existing walls, replace the machine screws with longer screws of the same dimension, and then attach the vertical studs closest to the regular walls with longer machine screws and washers through drilled holes in the studs into the expanders, the wall should stand much more steadily.
Your landlord shouldn't complain, installing drywall expanders in walls falls within normal wear and tear.
Yes, it stands on the existing floor.
Sorry, but I don't quite understand the description you gave me about expanders. Right now, I was thinking of using 8 x 100 mm plastic plugs to fasten the wooden frame to the ceiling. Do you mean I should replace them with expanders?
I also prefer not to touch the side walls because they have a kind of "grainy" wallpaper, and if there are holes left over, it will be quite obvious that there is a bare spot there.
By the way (curious again), if you use expanders on the walls during installation, isn't it difficult to remove them? They should expand inside the wall, right?
Sorry, but I don't quite understand the description you gave me about expanders. Right now, I was thinking of using 8 x 100 mm plastic plugs to fasten the wooden frame to the ceiling. Do you mean I should replace them with expanders?
I also prefer not to touch the side walls because they have a kind of "grainy" wallpaper, and if there are holes left over, it will be quite obvious that there is a bare spot there.
By the way (curious again), if you use expanders on the walls during installation, isn't it difficult to remove them? They should expand inside the wall, right?
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Had a similar solution in an apartment, but with the bolt up against the ceiling. Here towards the floor... http://www.tibromobelindustri.com/kategori/13/innervaggar.html
The hole at the top/bottom is concealed with a regular ceiling/floor molding.
All electricity was easily run above the module, in the linked version below. Then pipes to outlets and contacts in each module.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make such modules yourself.
The version I had, had tongue and groove on the long sides so they locked each other.
Had no problem having interior doors in such modules, tibro also has such solutions.
The hole at the top/bottom is concealed with a regular ceiling/floor molding.
All electricity was easily run above the module, in the linked version below. Then pipes to outlets and contacts in each module.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make such modules yourself.
The version I had, had tongue and groove on the long sides so they locked each other.
Had no problem having interior doors in such modules, tibro also has such solutions.