I am going to build a wall and it doesn't seem easy since I have slanted ceilings.

Place a board on the floor and nail it down.
Nail the next one to the wall according to the link.
What about the next board that is supposed to be nailed to the ceiling then??
It will be slanted considering the ceiling has an 18-degree slope!
Should you "shim" it straight and then nail it down?

http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/mkkaofpjacvfes/
 
The simplest solution is probably to start by attaching the horizontal beam to the vertical beams at both ends, and you then place the beam horizontally, not at the same angle as the roof. Then you screw diagonally through the beam so they go through the back edge of the beam and up into the roof at a 90-degree angle. You then avoid the "problem" of an angled beam being wider than the other beams. That's how I would have done it...
 
With a plunge saw, you could have ripped the overlying board that you attach to the ceiling.
 
I just solved this problem by splitting the studs myself that are supposed to go against the ceiling. I have 45x70mm as standing frame, so I took 45x95 and set the rip saw to 25º (in your case 18) and two cuts later I had studs that fit perfectly.
 
When I think about it, it becomes much easier if you install the rule that should go on the ceiling first, because otherwise it can be tricky to get the right depth on the 18-degree miter.
 
Take a wall rule and cut at the right angle in the miter saw, then you have a template with the correct measurements to set up the rip saw later.
 
I wonder if ToRy's version in the first post isn't the simplest?!

I can start by placing the beam in the ceiling at the angle of the ceiling, quite simply.
Then I place the beam against the wall.
Next, the beam on the floor.
And lastly, the freestanding beam where the wall is supposed to end (the wall should only be 3 meters out from the big wall in the picture).
Then I simply screw the standing beams to the slanted ceiling board.

Will it work??
 
It will, but the roof joist will then be wider than the other joists since it is twisted. Maybe it doesn't matter if the unevenness ends up on the inside, meaning towards the existing wall?
The method I wrote about in another post allows you to avoid cutting anything at an angle, just straight joints, no uneven surfaces or "wider" joists, just saw and screw. :) The point of that was that the joist attached to the ceiling is NOT attached flush to the ceiling, at its angle, but at the same angle as the floor joist. The standing joists in the middle will then not need to be beveled.
 
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ayye
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Aha, I'm a bit slow this morning :)

Do you mean like this!
http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/oqqixkqnhoewh/

I wonder if I should start with the floor joist first and then the wall stud.
Then the freestanding stud for the end of the wall which I nail to the floor joist.
Lastly, I nail the top plate according to the picture on those two standing studs or alternatively screw it with 90-degree angles....
Yay :)
 
There you go!!! :thumbup:

I had driven in two long screws - maybe 80 mm - at the right angle from underneath the ceiling beam up into the wall beam and similar in the other end of the ceiling beam. It's a good idea to pre-drill as you are in the end grain for both the ceiling and wall beam. It will hold like a rock! :)
 
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Offtopic

ToRy said:
Last edited by ToRy today at 09:39 Reason: Damn, I can't write the rule, it always becomes reglen! Why, oh whyyyyyy!!!!!!​
Maybe you have Småland blood? reglen, cycklen, nycklen....
 
Joco_ said:
Offtopic

You might have Småländskt blood? reglen, cycklen, nycklen....
Even more off topic...
No way, dad is from Majorna and mom from Bergum.! I see myself as a Göteborgare! :) The keyboard might be from Ljungby though... :D
 
Otherwise, you can use the stålskena intended for installation against slanted roofs.
 
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