I have a load-bearing inner wall in the basement built with 45*95 with cc 60. Sill in 45*95 on the concrete with sill paper underneath. I want the wall to be easily screwable, so I want OSB plus gypsum and insulation to prevent the wall from becoming a drum.
However, since it is a basement, albeit newly drained, there is a risk of moisture coming up from the concrete slab. Should I therefore insulate with cellplast and use moisture-resistant gypsum instead of regular gypsum? Can I then have OSB behind it?
One solution I'm considering, also to minimize costs, is to have cellplast the lower about 30-40 cm, have a double moisture-resistant board there (to get the same thickness on the wall), and above, from 30 cm to the ceiling, have OSB plus regular gypsum and regular insulation?
However, since it is a basement, albeit newly drained, there is a risk of moisture coming up from the concrete slab. Should I therefore insulate with cellplast and use moisture-resistant gypsum instead of regular gypsum? Can I then have OSB behind it?
One solution I'm considering, also to minimize costs, is to have cellplast the lower about 30-40 cm, have a double moisture-resistant board there (to get the same thickness on the wall), and above, from 30 cm to the ceiling, have OSB plus regular gypsum and regular insulation?
If you've taken an ax to the boat, you just have to row.....
If you already have a wooden wall there, anything else you do won't make it better or worse. Well, it's worse if you try to trap any moisture.
If the slab is dry (i.e., insulated), you have nothing to worry about. If the slab is uninsulated, you have to hope that the "syllpapp" does the job, and it probably will.
I would insulate as usual with stone wool and then screw OSB and drywall onto it. Everything else just seems like hassle that doesn't make anything better. If you have moisture problems in this wall, the main problem is the load-bearing studs, not the surface layer and insulation.
If you already have a wooden wall there, anything else you do won't make it better or worse. Well, it's worse if you try to trap any moisture.
If the slab is dry (i.e., insulated), you have nothing to worry about. If the slab is uninsulated, you have to hope that the "syllpapp" does the job, and it probably will.
I would insulate as usual with stone wool and then screw OSB and drywall onto it. Everything else just seems like hassle that doesn't make anything better. If you have moisture problems in this wall, the main problem is the load-bearing studs, not the surface layer and insulation.
The slab is uninsulated. The old wall had the sill embedded in the bottom slab. No moisture damage on it whatsoever, but it was replaced since it was removed for inspection.
Should I build the wall differently? Not too late to change yet...
Should I build the wall differently? Not too late to change yet...
Yes, but it becomes a lot of work for nothing. But I asked anyway 
Keeping the wooden wall, going with OSB + drywall and mineral wool.
Follow-up question: is it okay to build other non-load-bearing interior walls "as usual," i.e., with metal studs, mineral wool, OSB, and drywall? I had originally planned to build them with metal studs, foam, OSB, and moisture-resistant drywall.
The exterior walls will remain as they are, plastered and painted with silicate paint.
Keeping the wooden wall, going with OSB + drywall and mineral wool.Follow-up question: is it okay to build other non-load-bearing interior walls "as usual," i.e., with metal studs, mineral wool, OSB, and drywall? I had originally planned to build them with metal studs, foam, OSB, and moisture-resistant drywall.
The exterior walls will remain as they are, plastered and painted with silicate paint.