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3 replies
6k views
3 replies
Insulate in steel beam in exterior wall
Hello.
I am planning to widen the garage door to make it 4.5m wide and do not have space for a glulam beam, so there will be an IPE200 beam. From what I understand, the beam should be mounted as close to the interior of the wall as possible to keep it warm and avoid condensation (it's a warm garage used only for hobby cars, so no meltwater etc. after all). The wall is thin, so I don't have much space for insulation (about 5 cm) on the outside of the beam, as the beam itself is 10 cm wide. How would you do it? I plan to leave the beam uninsulated on the inside with just double drywall over for fire safety.
- I need to find a well-insulated board, preferably long to avoid too many joints, and that can be purchased in smaller quantities. Suggestions?
- Would you fill the outside of the beam with insulation, maybe even foam?!
- Thinking about welding on brackets/3-4 mm standing metal strips on the outside of the beam to be able to mount/screw wooden panels. That shouldn't significantly affect the beam's function/strength, right?
- I'm also considering surface treating the beam with rust primer and lacquer, like car paint. Any other suggestions?
- Anything else to consider?
How would you do it?
I am planning to widen the garage door to make it 4.5m wide and do not have space for a glulam beam, so there will be an IPE200 beam. From what I understand, the beam should be mounted as close to the interior of the wall as possible to keep it warm and avoid condensation (it's a warm garage used only for hobby cars, so no meltwater etc. after all). The wall is thin, so I don't have much space for insulation (about 5 cm) on the outside of the beam, as the beam itself is 10 cm wide. How would you do it? I plan to leave the beam uninsulated on the inside with just double drywall over for fire safety.
- I need to find a well-insulated board, preferably long to avoid too many joints, and that can be purchased in smaller quantities. Suggestions?
- Would you fill the outside of the beam with insulation, maybe even foam?!
- Thinking about welding on brackets/3-4 mm standing metal strips on the outside of the beam to be able to mount/screw wooden panels. That shouldn't significantly affect the beam's function/strength, right?
- I'm also considering surface treating the beam with rust primer and lacquer, like car paint. Any other suggestions?
- Anything else to consider?
How would you do it?
No one?! Anyone back from vacation maybe? 
Had filled life with insulation then insulated from the edge of the flange as much as possible inside the wind-protective paper.
Welding in the beam should not have a significant impact, but do you really need that?
Usually, profile tubes are used, insulated on the inside and as much as possible on the outside, mounted hundreds of columns in high-rise buildings that were grounded with only 60My, so if you roll 2-3 layers with primer, you are safe.
Welding in the beam should not have a significant impact, but do you really need that?
Usually, profile tubes are used, insulated on the inside and as much as possible on the outside, mounted hundreds of columns in high-rise buildings that were grounded with only 60My, so if you roll 2-3 layers with primer, you are safe.
Good, it's regular mineral/glass wool being used then.
I've come up with solutions for the installation of the beam's cladding without welding, so I think it's going to work out now. The beam will more or less function as an upper frame. However, you want some insulation on the underside against the garage door opening as well, so I think it might have to be glued-on foam plastic and wood trim on the underside.
It's a bit strange, though, that you can't find any exploded diagrams, photos, or anything like that for solutions.
I've come up with solutions for the installation of the beam's cladding without welding, so I think it's going to work out now. The beam will more or less function as an upper frame. However, you want some insulation on the underside against the garage door opening as well, so I think it might have to be glued-on foam plastic and wood trim on the underside.
It's a bit strange, though, that you can't find any exploded diagrams, photos, or anything like that for solutions.
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