I am going to install the following pull-up bar in an existing drywall-clad exterior wall. Since I suspect that I won't hit the studs, I want a strong attachment to the wall.
The red-marked areas in the image are the screw holes in the frame.
My idea is to maybe fasten 3 horizontal boards to 4-5 studs and then attach the frame to these.
The question then is -
1. What type of wood dimension should I use? I suspect there is a correlation between the distance from the wall and the thickness of the board that I should consider?
2. What type of screws should be used for wall attachment and for attaching the pull-up bar to the boards?
Or am I thinking incorrectly? Is there a better way? I first considered plywood, but this must be stronger anyway? I don't want any "play" in the bar; I want it to be as solid against the wall as possible.
The red-marked areas in the image are the screw holes in the frame.
My idea is to maybe fasten 3 horizontal boards to 4-5 studs and then attach the frame to these.
The question then is -
1. What type of wood dimension should I use? I suspect there is a correlation between the distance from the wall and the thickness of the board that I should consider?
2. What type of screws should be used for wall attachment and for attaching the pull-up bar to the boards?
Or am I thinking incorrectly? Is there a better way? I first considered plywood, but this must be stronger anyway? I don't want any "play" in the bar; I want it to be as solid against the wall as possible.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Forget OSB.
The idea with boards is good, if you find boards that are 28 mm thick or 34, that's good.
If you're byxis, then use 45x95 joists.
Plywood is fine, but one layer is enough, but then the screws for the chins must go through the plywood and "make a hole" in the plaster.
Protte
The idea with boards is good, if you find boards that are 28 mm thick or 34, that's good.
If you're byxis, then use 45x95 joists.
Plywood is fine, but one layer is enough, but then the screws for the chins must go through the plywood and "make a hole" in the plaster.
Protte
Hmm see now that Plywood 21 mm is available at Bauhaus. A section of 120x200 cm attached to 4 studs with screws placed closely must be foolproof - the question is just the mounting of the chin-up bar in the plywood?
6 screws is what I have to work with?
6 screws is what I have to work with?
Thanks for the response - the only thing I'm a little worried about is that the frame will then be a full 45mm away from the wall and thus more prone to "swaying" - but you think this is better than, for example, 21mm ply?
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
If you can afford a full sheet of 21mm plywood, it will certainly be sturdy.
3 pieces of 45 x 95 are probably much cheaper and easier to carry in.
Plywood can be warped and may not want to lie flat against the wall, but studs may have twisted.
Chin-up bar manufacturer, what does it say about mounting?
Protte
3 pieces of 45 x 95 are probably much cheaper and easier to carry in.
Plywood can be warped and may not want to lie flat against the wall, but studs may have twisted.
Chin-up bar manufacturer, what does it say about mounting?
Protte
I suspect the manufacturer does not recommend hanging in a drywall
Price is entirely irrelevant here, I'm happy to spend 1000:- plus for a sturdily mounted frame, so I can afford a plywood sheet for 450 bucks. Thanks for the response!
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Set the panel as high as possible, the chinns should not be at the top edge of the panel.
It's more important to screw the panel at the top; at the bottom, one screw per rule is sufficient.
Protte
It's more important to screw the panel at the top; at the bottom, one screw per rule is sufficient.
Protte