Hi, I'm new here on byggahus!
I've just removed the doors from my double garage, and when I'm rebuilding the wall so that the new door will fit, I discovered that the floor is sloping, about a 30mm height difference between the sides of the intended door attachment. It's a cast concrete floor from the 70s.
I've been considering what to do, it turns out the ceiling (both the ceiling, roof trusses, etc.) also slopes roughly the same. Despite this, I'm quite reluctant to intentionally install the door crooked.
I had started building a 'straight' door opening.
Something needs to be done to the garage floor near the door in order for it to seal tightly.
-Chisel away and cast new or grind?
I need to make some sort of decision before continuing to build the wall/door opening.
Any tips?
I've just removed the doors from my double garage, and when I'm rebuilding the wall so that the new door will fit, I discovered that the floor is sloping, about a 30mm height difference between the sides of the intended door attachment. It's a cast concrete floor from the 70s.
I've been considering what to do, it turns out the ceiling (both the ceiling, roof trusses, etc.) also slopes roughly the same. Despite this, I'm quite reluctant to intentionally install the door crooked.
I had started building a 'straight' door opening.
Something needs to be done to the garage floor near the door in order for it to seal tightly.
-Chisel away and cast new or grind?
I need to make some sort of decision before continuing to build the wall/door opening.
Any tips?
Self-leveling compound is the common method for leveling a floor.
Mounting the door straight is the only way to go,
so you're on the right track there.
The simple solution might be to build up the bottom of the door so that it follows the floor.
Mounting the door straight is the only way to go,
so you're on the right track there.The simple solution might be to build up the bottom of the door so that it follows the floor.
Of course, I've thought about self-leveling compound. Sanded with a concrete grinder and coated it all with 'Beckers strong floor' about 10 years ago. It's held up really well. I guess you need to sand it off to get the self-leveling compound to adhere?
Then it'll take quite a bit of self-leveling compound to raise it that much. I've just measured, and the surface starts with a constant slope but really drops off at the end. There's already a slope towards the floor drain, so it would be significant, I guess.
How does self-leveling compound hold up as a garage floor?
Grinding/milling: it might be enough to grind or mill maybe half a meter wide along the port opening to create an 'outward' slope. Is grinding/milling even an option? Can you rent the right machine, for example, from Cramo?
The slope is about 6mm/m right now.
Then it'll take quite a bit of self-leveling compound to raise it that much. I've just measured, and the surface starts with a constant slope but really drops off at the end. There's already a slope towards the floor drain, so it would be significant, I guess.
How does self-leveling compound hold up as a garage floor?
Grinding/milling: it might be enough to grind or mill maybe half a meter wide along the port opening to create an 'outward' slope. Is grinding/milling even an option? Can you rent the right machine, for example, from Cramo?
The slope is about 6mm/m right now.
There are plenty of concrete floor grinders, and they should also be available at rental companies, you'd think. If it's enough to grind near the door, maybe leveling compound there would also suffice?
Do you not see building up underneath the door as an option?
I have no idea whether the paint needs to be removed before applying leveling compound, it's probably best to check with both Becker and the supplier of the leveling compound to see what they say. With a bit of luck, maybe it's enough to roughen the surface, i.e., a simple grinding, or to prime with some adhesive promoter.
I haven't applied leveling compound on a garage floor myself, so I don't know how well it holds, but I recall it's been discussed on the forum from time to time, so I presume it holds up well. But of course, you should check the material you use to ensure it meets the standards.
Do you not see building up underneath the door as an option?
I have no idea whether the paint needs to be removed before applying leveling compound, it's probably best to check with both Becker and the supplier of the leveling compound to see what they say. With a bit of luck, maybe it's enough to roughen the surface, i.e., a simple grinding, or to prime with some adhesive promoter.
I haven't applied leveling compound on a garage floor myself, so I don't know how well it holds, but I recall it's been discussed on the forum from time to time, so I presume it holds up well. But of course, you should check the material you use to ensure it meets the standards.
Hello again, thanks for the answers
Build on the gate below: Well, it feels so-so. Not ruled out but far down on the wish list.
If I were to level it with floor leveling compound, it would need to be filled 34mm on the low side.
JOW: That was roughly my reasoning, sand/mill with a slope so the 'gate line' is level.
Build on the gate below: Well, it feels so-so. Not ruled out but far down on the wish list.
If I were to level it with floor leveling compound, it would need to be filled 34mm on the low side.
JOW: That was roughly my reasoning, sand/mill with a slope so the 'gate line' is level.
Got hold of the milling machine, it seems to be working. Have perhaps milled 30% of what is needed so far. Quite dusty, and water spraying made it stop cutting and caused it to clump together, so you have to live with the dust.
There, now it's done. The milling machine worked very well and the surface actually turned out quite okay. I had imagined it would look more vandalized.
What took the most time was measuring. The dust made it difficult to see how much you were taking, so you had to do it step by step, small steps at the end.
Apart from the port installation, what's left is to cast a new front edge with a complete front edge profile.
What took the most time was measuring. The dust made it difficult to see how much you were taking, so you had to do it step by step, small steps at the end.
Apart from the port installation, what's left is to cast a new front edge with a complete front edge profile.