Absolutely right, Henke O.
Then there can also be disturbing creaks depending on what kind of wallpaper or paint one has on the wall. So, to be on the safe side, one waits with the final surface treatment.
 
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Mikael_L
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Now the assembly should go smoothly now that I've gotten answers to more questions than I asked :D
 
...and it was free too. d^_^b
 
Immobil said:
...and it was free too. d^_^b
You seem to have a good understanding of stairs, so I might as well ask if the staircase should be glued and screwed together or only screwed together? ;)
Let me know when the meter starts ticking :P
 
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Mackisch
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Screwing only is what applies.
 
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Mikael_L
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G
Why shouldn't you glue as well?
 
When the glue has dried after a few years, there is a high risk of creaking in the stairs.
 
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Mikael_L
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Mikael_L
Now my large 3-dimensional wooden puzzle has ended up on the floor under the staircase.


Then it's just a matter of rolling up the sleeves and getting started.

If the OP doesn't mind, I'll take any questions here as well as provide a brief account of the workflow and results.
 
Mikael_L
Now I have started to test a little how the stairs look. It looks good so far. The door that needs to fit underneath manages fairly well, it is exactly 2.10 where the stringer passes the beam at the door hole, meaning the frame will fit properly, but the door trim will need to be cut at an angle where it meets the stringer.
 
  • Wooden staircase under construction in a partially built room with exposed framing and tools on the floor.
Mikael_L
The staircase was, as mentioned, bought second-hand, so it was a bit amusing to see how well it fits our house. :cool:

Now it's standing on the concrete floor downstairs, and without the 22mm flooring upstairs, there's a 25mm gap between the top step and the joist (but I think it ended up about 2-4 mm too low, so it's probably actually 27-29mm).
In other words, the top short step (whatever it's called) will be 4-7mm above the flooring.
What it ends up being depends on what floor coverings we choose (it's not decided yet, but downstairs it's mostly leaning towards 2-3mm foam + 6-8mm click flooring).

For those of you who are staircase experts, is this something you would be concerned about, for example, shortening the staircase a few mm at the bottom, or is it better to just go ahead and adjust a little later when the upper floor is completed?

Then I wonder how it should be attached in the upper floor.
Apparently, the long stringer was attached with 2 screws to the joist in the previous location (see image 2 under step 14).
But on the other stringer and the top step, I can't find any indication of old screw holes, it seems like the staircase was only attached on the long stringer against the wall in the previous house? :x
That doesn't seem reasonable to me! :O
Tips?
 
  • Close-up of a wooden staircase with a measuring tape showing a 28mm gap between the top step and floor joist.
  • Close-up of a wooden staircase's stringer with a metal bracket and screws, showing step 14 marked on side, highlighting installation details and old attachments.
Stay on the chosen path, it'll be fine!
You can conveniently toe-screw the innervang into the joist, and that'll work too. ;-)
 
Mikael_L
So both stringers should be attached at the top of the stairs?
 
Mikael_L
And if the innervange is to be screwed at the top, I see two possible ways.
See attached figure:
Brown is the floor joists cc600, offset where the stairwell begins, so the stairwell is 1155 wide, but the stairs are 900 wide.
Purple corresponds to the vangars, the upper one in the picture is the outer vange which is easily screwed to the wall and floor joists in suitable places.
Green is a roughly sketched stair step.
Yellow is a possibility for me to build laterally on the floor joists, but not easy to make it completely stable.

So how can the innervange be attached, can I screw it at 1, that is, the end grain of the vange against the offset in the floor joists?
Or should I frame according to the yellow and screw the vange on the side (2) to the extended floor joists?
 
  • Diagram showing cross-section of a staircase design: brown joists (cc600), purple stringers, green steps, yellow lateral joist, with proposed fixings at points 1 and 2.
Yep, go with the first one, that's what I would have done.
 
Mikael_L
OK, great. I'm not quite sure how to screw it right now, but I'll probably figure it out :)

I have one more question.

I saw that the factory has prepared for joining the lower outer stringer with the upper outer stringer.
Check the pictures where I show what I mean, and a picture where the prepared screw holes are marked. But the holes probably don't show in the picture.
I think you probably know exactly what it looks like anyway. :)

The previous owner apparently didn't screw it together here.
The advantage could be seen as the short part can be screwed together first and attached to the wall, then you can place the long stair section and set everything up.

But are there perhaps some disadvantages too? Creaking, and such?
 
  • Wooden staircase under construction, with lower section and potential screw holes circled in red, highlighting fixing points for assembly.
  • Wooden staircase components with pre-drilled screw holes circled in red, indicating where the lower and upper outer stringers join.
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Liq4Lip
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