If you have studs to put up drywall, it becomes a bit of an error if you cut away the beveling on the drywall sheets, as the center-to-center distance becomes incorrect. Or should you have thought of that before putting up the studs, or how should you think about it then?
 
Or you start with a trimmed half-slice, i.e., the first slice you cut to a cc600 with a cut-off chamfer. There might be a bit more waste, but it's very marginal since there will still be cuts and needs for pieces in other places.
 
Daniel_N said:
Aha. I usually slide out, snap down, and then cut from underneath; the knife automatically runs correctly due to the angle where you've snapped.
That's probably how most people do it;)
 
shelby67 said:
That's probably what most people do;)
That's certainly true, it was a reply to mathias who does it differently.
 
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mickemagnusson
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Daniel_N said:
That is certainly the case, it was a response to mathias who does it differently
All ways are good except the bad ones! I am not particularly consistent in my method and do it both ways, however, this was the explanation for why I wrote as I did earlier.
 
I do the same, flipping the large boards is too much for me. Often they lie so nicely in the stack and it's easiest to push them out over the edge to then cut off.
 
AndersS said:
Or you can start with a cut half sheet, i.e., the first sheet you cut to a cc600 with cut off bevel. There may be a little more waste, but extremely marginal since there will still be cuts and the need for pieces in other places.
Replying to my own post since I was pondering in the winter darkness that I very rarely need to cut off the bevel. Of course, it is enough to start with a half sheet (or the distance to the first stud) where you get a smooth sheet by cutting and turning it into the corner, and the beveled part you turn outward towards the wall where you then continue with the next sheet.
Sorry if I misled you and confused things.
 
Understood that they meant that anyway. When I have put up drywall, the chamfer has remained in the corner, a bit tricky to spackle but it works. I'll try using a straight board next time I do drywall, it should be easier.
 
I slip one board behind the adjacent wall's stud, which is of course loose. The stud is screwed into the board and I then bring the next board against the "recessed board". This results in only a cut edge in the inner corner and a stable corner. Hard to explain with words, but that's how I do it.
 
But has no one reinforced inner corners?? That is, first mount a thin metal bracket along the entire corner from floor to ceiling, then put on the final layer of drywall, screw through the metal bracket into the stud. Both drywall sheets in the corner are attached to the same metal bracket = minimal risk of cracks...
 
Styx said:
On the other hand, we always put an LP50 (smooth metal angle) behind OSB/plywood/gypsum in the inner corners so that nothing moves there, maybe that's why cut corners work so well for us.

Styx said:
The first house I did like that I built 9 years ago, and my sister lives there today - no cracked corners anywhere.. BUT - then we also had LP50 behind - I don't know if ACME does so or not but the corners are extremely firm..
Oh yes, we definitely do..
 
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Pettert
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When should the metal bracket be installed? Should it be attached before the OSB, against the horizontal studs (2*2)?

I have framed the corners with two pieces of 70 mm* 70 mm. After I insulated and installed the vapor barrier, I mounted horizontal 45s (2*2). Is it too late to install the metal bracket then? Should I have installed them earlier?
 
bergstrollet said:
When should the metal bracket be installed? Should it be attached before the OSB, to the horizontal studs (2*2)?

I have framed the corners with two pieces of 70 mm* 70 mm. After insulating and installing the vapor barrier, I mounted the horizontal 45 (2*2). Is it too late to install the metal bracket then? Should I have installed them earlier?
You install the 50 bracket directly onto the stud frame... that is, to the 2"2"
screw through everything.
this MUST be done in all corners....

regards
snickar estwing
 
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Bezt said:
If you have studs to put up drywall, there will be some error if you cut away the beveling on the drywall sheets, the center-to-center distance will be wrong. Or should you have thought about that before putting up the studs or how should you think then?
start drywalling from the next stud and cut the other towards the wall...
regards
snickar estwing
 
Snailman
Alright, a lot to keep track of and think about, I have on the outer walls horizontal 45x45 and then vertical råspont, on the inner walls horizontal råspont and 70 vertical studs, then drywall (13mm) inside the råspont (17mm). I hadn't thought about metal angles and have put up some råspont walls, was thinking of placing the angle inside the råspont (where possible) then there will be some corners with the angle outside the råspont on one side and inside the råspont on the other side, and a third variant with the angle outside the råspont (directly inside the drywall, that is).

Does anyone have any opinions/tips regarding this?

I was thinking of painting directly on the drywall afterward, no microlith or anything like that...
 
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