Anders 1920-tal
Hello!

I have been emptying two rooms in a boiler house from the 70s that will become a workshop. The house is built with lightweight concrete blocks and a concrete slab on the ground. Now I want to frame the walls. My main concern is how the sill (for the interior walls) should be laid against the concrete slab (sill paper?). If you want to insulate the interior wall (against the exterior concrete wall), should there be some plastic or similar between the concrete wall and the studs? I'm going to run electricity inside the walls, if that matters.

Here are some pictures that might explain more. Thanks in advance!
 
  • Room with concrete walls, featuring a yellow miter saw on a stand, a window frame on sawhorses, toolboxes stacked, and a cable reel on the floor.
  • Empty corner of a 1970s boiler house with concrete floor, showing light stains on the walls and some rust spots near the base, partially lit by sunlight.
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epw
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Joining the discussion because I have similar thoughts :D From what I understand, you should use metal studs to avoid mold. This way, no sill is needed either. I guess nail plugs are the easiest way to attach the studs.
 
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Anders 1920-tal and 2 others
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Anders 1920-tal
Ok! Should steel studs be used for all studs, and not just the "syll"?
 
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Huzzbutt
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Anders 1920-tal Anders 1920-tal said:
Ok! Is it necessary to use steel studs for all studs, and not just the "sill"?
Yes.
 
Anders 1920-tal
ricebridge ricebridge said:
Yes.
Thanks!
 
I have learned that rule 1 is to never insulate on the inside, but if you must, rule 2 is no organic materials. Simply use aluminum-steel studs and then mineral wool and a moisture-resistant drywall. Alternatively, as I have decided, Träullit with plaster and silicate paint. Due to my construction on the outside and the nature of the ground, I am worried about moisture and want it completely diffusion open.
 
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Anders 1920-tal
J jurkeller said:
I've learned that rule 1 is to never insulate on the inside, but if you have to, rule 2 is no organic materials. Simply use aluminum-steel studs and then mineral wool and a moisture-resistant plasterboard. Alternatively, as I've personally decided, Träullit with plaster and silicate paint. Due to my construction on the outside and the nature of the ground, I'm worried about moisture and want it to be completely diffusion open.
Thanks for the response! I don't necessarily need to insulate. I'm mostly interested in getting inner walls that I can run electrical wires through and use for mounting things (tool panels, etc.). Given this, could one use wooden studs with some capillary-breaking layer against the concrete slab?
 
If the concrete slab lacks underlying insulation, you absolutely must use sill paper under wooden sills. I would also place it under steel studs.
 
Anders 1920-tal
J justusandersson said:
If the concrete slab lacks underlying insulation, you absolutely must use a sill gasket under wooden sills. I would also lay it under steel studs.
But do you think that's enough? Or will there be immediate problems? One of the rooms in this house has wooden studs and there have been no problems there.
 
I'm talking about the sill of the wall. But maybe there is insulation underneath? When exactly was the house built?
 
Anders 1920-tal
J justusandersson said:
I'm talking about the sill for the wall. But maybe there's insulation underneath? When was the house built exactly?
No, there's no insulation. Yes, exactly: sillpappa against the concrete slab. I just want to heat the space in winter so that it doesn't drop below 5 plus, so I can store paint, etc., there.
 
Anders 1920-tal
J justusandersson said:
I'm talking about the wall sill. But maybe there's insulation underneath? When was the house built exactly?
The house was built in 1978. It has never been a residential house, only a workshop, boiler room, and wood storage. When the boiler was in use it was heated except when the boiler was not in use.
 
Anders 1920-tal
Anders 1920-tal Anders 1920-tal said:
The house was built in 1978. It has never been a residential house but a workshop, boiler room, and wood storage. When the boiler was fired up, it was heated except when the boiler was not in use.
 
A low indoor temperature in winter is a good way to avoid condensation on floors and walls.
 
Anders 1920-tal
Picture of the house
 
  • House with a red roof and a chimney, next to a gravel path and green field, under a cloudy sky.
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