I have torn down the knee wall now the whole house is thumping

[Utsliten och utdömd]

It is also not just about installing a beam.
Any beam must be supported on posts that in turn must stand on something capable of bearing the point loads.

What you have done requires a building permit (alteration of a load-bearing structure).

 

[Anna_H]

Aha! So the other walls are not included in the drawing? That's something... I've never seen a drawing of a regular house like that before. Then I should just ignore my nonsense.

Minnie

No, the sectional drawing only shows load-bearing walls. The floor plan drawings show all walls, so when you need to demolish something, it's the sectional drawing you need.

Then you must know that in old houses, any wall can be more or less load-bearing. Especially thick plank walls.

A simple (but under certain circumstances risky!) test if you are unsure is to handsaw the stud or plank you want to remove. If the saw binds, it's a load-bearing stud/plank. In that case, it must be replaced in some way.

 

[Johanbogg]

No, the sectional drawing only shows load-bearing walls. The drawings seen from above show all walls, so when you want to demolish things, it's the sectional drawing you need.

Then you must be aware that in old houses any wall can be more or less load-bearing. Especially thick board walls.

A simple (but under certain circumstances risky!) test if you're unsure is to hand-saw the stud or board you want to remove. If the saw pinches, it is a load-bearing stud/board. Then it must be replaced in some way.

I usually go for trying to "bend" them, if it feels like they are under pressure, you leave them alone, if they feel loose, you cut them.

 

[mexitegel]

A risky advice as there are different load cases.

For example, basement walls whose purpose is not to bear vertical loads but to counteract soil pressure. Or in TS's case where the struts may not receive significant load until there's snow on the roof.

 

[egge80]

No, the section drawing only shows load-bearing walls.
The drawings seen from above show all walls, so when you're going to demolish something, it's the section drawing you need.

Then you must know that in old houses any walls can be more or less load-bearing. Especially thick plank walls.

A simple (but under certain circumstances risky!) test if you're unsure is to handsaw the beam or plank you want to remove. If the saw binds, it's a load-bearing beam/plank. Then it must be replaced in some way.

No, the section drawing only shows load-bearing walls.
The drawings seen from above show all walls, so when you're going to demolish something, it's the section drawing you need.

Then you must know that in old houses any walls can be more or less load-bearing. Especially thick plank walls.

A simple (but under certain circumstances risky!) test if you're unsure is to handsaw the beam or plank you want to remove. If the saw binds, it's a load-bearing beam/plank. Then it must be replaced in some way.

No, the section drawing only shows load-bearing walls.
The drawings seen from above show all walls, so when you're going to demolish something, it's the section drawing you need.
Then you must know that in old houses any walls can be more or less load-bearing. Especially thick plank walls.

A simple (but under certain circumstances risky!) test if you're unsure is to handsaw the beam or plank you want to remove. If the saw binds, it's a load-bearing beam/plank. Then it must be replaced in some way.

Is it really the case that the section drawing shows load-bearing walls?
It becomes a bit tricky since not all load-bearing walls are always included, then a section drawing can vary depending on where in the house the section is taken!
I'm doubtful that it's so, but I'm not a constructor!

In this particular case, there's no doubt with the type of truss but in general?

 

[Vardagsrum]

Calm and steady now TS, it will be fine!

Just don't feed the 4-year-old too much now..

 

[witten]

Is it really the case that the section drawing shows load-bearing walls?
It becomes a bit tricky because not all load-bearing walls are always included, and a sectional drawing can vary depending on where in the house the section is taken!
I'm doubtful that it is so, but I'm no engineer!

It is a framework truss with a raised wall section, there's really no doubt when it comes to the question of whether the walls were load-bearing. There should also be stabilizing struts inside the attic with that type of truss.

 

[egge80]

It is a framework truss with a raised wall section, there is really nothing to hesitate about when it comes to the question of whether the walls were load-bearing. There should also be stabilizing braces inside the loft with that type of truss.

I know that, in this case there is no doubt that type of truss requires support legs but I mean in general

 

[Johanbogg]

A risky advice since there are different load cases.

For example, basement walls whose purpose is not to bear vertical loads but to counteract ground pressure. Or in TS' case where the supports might get noticeable load only with snow on the roof.

Yep. But no more risky than cutting and seeing if the saw gets stuck

 

[Rorr]

A thought, shouldn't the support legs be inside the wall that remains in the room?
Don't you usually see how the meeting where the upper frame and lower frame meet in a sloping ceiling?

 

[witten]

We have thought that it is the outer wall we see in the picture, isn't it?

 

[Magnus E K]

The roof should withstand snow load and also wind load. Hope the house is not located in Skåne.

 

[hapazard]

We thought it was the outer wall we see in the picture, isn't it?

Yes, it should be 2.3 in ceiling height and then the drawn support legs should have been much higher than the wall in the photo.

 

[Ohchips]

Hello!

We have bought a 1950s wooden house that we have renovated.
One thing we have done is to remove the knee walls to get "bigger rooms"

BUT

When you walk on the upper floor, it "thuds" a lot. (didn't do that before)
The closer you get to the demolished knee wall, the more it thuds.
(it thuds when my 4-year-old walks upstairs and we sit downstairs, so very sensitive)

The beams that run are very solid, I tried to add even more studs in between, but it didn't work.
Now I'm beginning to think that the walls of the knee walls had a function that pressed down the beam running along the house's long side, thus making it "solid"

In the areas where we still have the knee walls, the floor is in prime condition.
Has anyone experienced the same?

My thought is to put up a few thick studs that "press down" this beam at the wall sides.

Or does anyone have any tips?
I would be very grateful for that.

Here is a picture when the floor is open, and the green line is where the knee wall was before.

Hello!

We have bought a 1950s wooden house that we have renovated.
One thing we have done is to remove the knee walls to get "bigger rooms"

BUT

When you walk on the upper floor, it "thuds" a lot. (didn't do that before)
The closer you get to the demolished knee wall, the more it thuds.
(it thuds when my 4-year-old walks upstairs and we sit downstairs, so very sensitive)

The beams that run are very solid, I tried to add even more studs in between, but it didn't work.
Now I'm beginning to think that the walls of the knee walls had a function that pressed down the beam running along the house's long side, thus making it "solid"

In the areas where we still have the knee walls, the floor is in prime condition.
Has anyone experienced the same?

My thought is to put up a few thick studs that "press down" this beam at the wall sides.

Or does anyone have any tips?
I would be very grateful for that.

Here is a picture when the floor is open, and the green line is where the knee wall was before.

Those walls are likely load-bearing. You should address it immediately and pray that it doesn't snow heavily before you fix it.

 

[witten]

The reason for the thudding on the floor is that you have extended the span of the joists, resulting in flex. The support legs also function as bearings (hangers) for the floor joists. In a framework, everything interacts in several different ways.