What should a well-built external wall look like?

[jeppeknaster]

If I were to build a house today, I would construct the load-bearing frame with 120 or 145 mm studs (considering that we tend to over-dimension everything today. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...e-dagens-hus-kraftigt-overdimensionerade.html)
Then I would frame an "inner outer wall" and in between them, I would insulate with an unbroken thermal bridge. The outside would be clad with facade board or foam plastic.

Type:
Panel+Batten
50 mm facade board
Exterior gypsum - to stabilize the construction
120 mm vertical studs + 120 mm MU
Insulation layer 45 mm MU
"inner wall" vertical 95 mm + 95 mm MU
Plastic
45mm horizontal + 45 MU (installation layer)
OSB+gypsum

 

[Mikael_L]

Do you install the entire batten at a 15-degree angle?
It feels more sensible and robust than fiddling with masonite all the time if you're going to do something.

Or you can use both, 15° + masonite.
Belt and suspenders ... You can overdo everything; I love it myself ...

I have 45x45 horizontal studs, so I attached 25x50 nail battens directly to this stud, so I get better and sturdier nail battens with the support behind. But you seem to be considering 28x70 as nail battens, which provides good stability right away.
But in my case, masonite strips would have caused a slight disadvantage.

 

[Mikael_L]

If I were to build a house today, I would construct the load-bearing frame with 120 or 145 mm studs (considering that we tend to over-dimension everything today. [link] )
Then I would add an "inner outer wall" and insulate between the two with an unbroken cold bridge. On the outside, I would cover it with a facade panel or Styrofoam.

Something like:
Panel + Batten
50 mm facade panel
Exterior gypsum - to stabilize the construction
120 mm standing studs + 120 mm MU
Insulation layer 45 mm MU
"Inner wall" standing 95 mm + 95 mm MU
Plastic
45 mm horizontal + 45 MU (installation layer)
OSB + gypsum

I have similar thoughts. I don't have a plan for exactly how I would realize this, but something like what you describe.
But I almost think I would build with the load-bearing structure on the inside and just have a facade-bearing frame on the outside, perhaps with only 45x70. Roof trusses and joists like it when spans are reduced. It also provides better load symmetry on the pedestals in the slab.

 

[andersmc]

I built my wall with the load-bearing part on the outside. From a strength perspective, it's certainly better to place it on the inside, but for me, the advantages of quickly making the house weatherproof outweighed this, so I could insulate peacefully under the roof.

I had the plastic on the inside of the inner wall. It became a really good installation area, but it was cumbersome to build.

 

[Suhagg]

I have some 170 lying around, so maybe a construction where I can use it would be sensible.

Panel
28-70 Batten. (also provides stability)
50 mm façade board
Wind barrier
170 mm vertical studs + 170 mm MU
"inner wall" standing 45 mm + 45 mm MU
Plastic
45 mm horizontal + 45 MU (installation layer)
OSB + plaster

What do you think about this one?
Price/work/insulation value

Do you drive the batten with screws through the façade board into the 170 frame? 100 mm long?
I actually like classic proven constructions, but maybe the novelty façade board could be included if it's affordable and good.

I saw that A-hus has a fairly similar variant.

Our climate-smart wall (3-layer)

Description of our extremely energy-efficient wall (320 mm insulation).


1. Facade

2. Batten
3. 50 mm façade board/insulation
4. Windproofing
5. 170 mm stud + insulation
6. Vapor barrier

7. 45 mm horizontal studs + insulation
8. OSB board
9. Plaster

 

[Mikael_L]

Facade panel is not particularly new-fangled, I think. It has probably been used for about 30-40 years.

 

[jeppeknaster]

I don't see any horizontal 45-reglar in the picture, but I do see standing ones.

 

[Suhagg]

I don't see any horizontal 45 studs in the picture, but rather vertical ones.

Yes, exactly. Probably a mistake on their part.
How do you calculate wall thickness and insulation thickness? I won't be using this house manufacturer but I'm just curious.

They write it like this.
I get 50+170+45=265mm insulation

Our sustainable wall (3-layer)

Description of our extremely energy-efficient wall (320 mm insulation).

1. Façade

2. Furring strips
3. 50 mm façade board/insulation
4. Wind barrier
5. 170 mm stud + insulation
6. Vapor barrier

7. 45 mm horizontal studs + insulation
8. OSB board
9. Gypsum

Panel 22mm
28-70 Furring strips. (also provides stability)
50 mm façade board
Wind fabric
170 mm vertical studs + 170 mm MU
"inner wall" vertical 45 mm + 45 mm MU
Plastic
45mm horizontal + 45 MU (installation layer)
OSB 11mm + gypsum 12mm

"My" construction is 310mm insulation and total 360mm wall thickness or how should it be calculated?

With this wall setup, should the 170 be flush with the slab and the façade board be outside, so to speak?

 

[snickarboden]

Most likely yes, you also want the facade board over the sill.

Best regards, Kent

 

[Matti_75]

With this wall setup, should the 170 be flush with the slab, and the facade board is outside, so to speak?

It depends on what kind of slab you have. If you have, for example, 100mm of exterior cellplast, you need to move the Sill inward at least 45mm to ensure the weights rest on the concrete and not just on the cellplast.

 

[Niklas9]

panel board 12mm (clamps the fabric and provides an air gap) - vapor-permeable wind barrier - 45x45 beam horizontally with insulation - 45x145 beam with insulation (alternatively 170,195mm if more insulation is desired) - plastic - 45x45 beam with insulation, electricity, water - gypsum (or plywood, OSB and gypsum)

 

[Mikael_L]

It depends on what kind of slab you have. For example, if you have 100mm foam board on the outside, you need to move the sill at least 45mm inward to place the weights on the concrete and not just on the foam board.

Yes, with facade panels you might want to move the frame in 50mm, then install the facade panels all the way down to the concrete (perhaps leave a few mm to prevent water absorption). Then you might be able to place the bottom nail battens to cover the gap between the slab and the insulation.

Just some wild ideas.

 

[Matti_75]

Yes, with facade board, you might want to recess the frame by 50mm, then mount the facade boards all the way down to the concrete (perhaps leave a few mm to prevent water from being absorbed). Then you might lay the bottom nail battens so they cover that gap between the slab and the insulation.

Just some wild ideas.

It's enough to place a plastic sheet against the concrete or even better a sill insulation.

 

[JOW]

Saw earlier about running water in an exterior wall.

If you want to follow Säker Vatten guidelines, you can't insulate the space where the pipes run, i.e., in the installation wall.

But with today's thick walls, I don't think there's a risk of freezing, so it's probably fine if you have 170mm mineral wool and then a 45mm insulated installation wall with water pipes.

 

[Suhagg]

It depends on what type of slab you have. If, for example, you have 100mm of insulation on the outside, you need to move the sill at least 45mm inward to ensure the weights are on the concrete and not just on the insulation.

I will do the same as in the garage.

It will be an anchor beam. About 60mm concrete in an L shape. Shouldn't that mean I can lay the 170 all the way out on the beam and let the rest extend outside the slab? Or does it become strange if so much is outside the slab that it's perhaps just as well to move it in a bit?