Y
Started tearing down the rotten fascia around the garage roof. Just wanted to check if you had any good advice before I buy the same type of wood and rebuild everything as it was before.

Would you, for example, glue the pieces together, cover everything with metal (which would be ugly), or consider something else?

This has deteriorated because it's on the south side, hasn't been maintained for 30 years, and due to weak paint; it will probably be oil-based next time.

gtaket.jpg
 
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I would have done the same as it was, gluing is completely out. Cladding with sheet metal, as you say, doesn't really look nice.

Maybe check if you think another panel looks nicer.
 
Well,
I have a similar project in the planning stage.
I had restored it so that it looked the same, but you don't have to use the same methods as last time.
- I am considering screwing up the panel, as screws don't back out if the panel twists.
- Moreover, if you nail, the joints between the panel boards automatically end up over a stud. With screws, you can join where the boards "end," you put a piece of plywood or something else behind to make the joint.
 
Make a proper roof with trusses so you can lay tiles on the roof, and you will not have any problems with a leaking roof in the future; otherwise, you will have to redo it when the paper starts leaking.
 
Y
The roofing is newly laid, the money isn't enough to rebuild. And if I do it, I'll lose my patio up there.
 
as long as you maintain it, it will last a long time, There is no reason to change
 
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Y
what kind of screw is good then. I think I've used some kind of turbo decking screw from xl-bygg for most things in other projects but...
 
Oiling end grain is always good.
 
Yrrol said:
what kind of screw is good then. I think I've been using some turbo trall from xl-bygg for most in other projects but..
That will probably do!

Grabber has something called panelskruv, but that's because the heads are extra small, but small heads hold up less well than large heads.

Nah, I would probably quite unscientifically have taken a longer type of trallskruv. But not so thick that the inner studs crack.
 
Y
which wood material should you choose, there are a few different tongues and grooves.

22X120MM DOUBLE PHASE TONGUE AND GROOVE SPRUCE ÅTG=9.1 LPM/M2 Spruce panel with 1 fine-sawn flat side and other sides planed. Mostly used for cladding on exterior facades that need to be painted.
17:34kr
 
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The type of spont you choose doesn't matter, as long as it resembles the rest of the paneling, if you have any that is. The most important thing is, as Tepojke wrote, to oil and paint the end grain carefully before you install it. It might be easier/nicer to place a small square board as a "knutbräda". Then you can make straight cuts on the paneling and let it fit snugly against this.
 
Y
I was thinking of replacing the bad studs with a pressure-treated equivalent.

Then I'm considering whether I should paint the inside of the tounge and groove or if that's overkill. It should be watertight now with new felt and metal over it.
 
Yrrol said:
Thought about replacing the bad studs with a pressure-treated equivalent.

Then I'm considering whether I should paint the inside of the tongue and groove or if it's overkill. It should be waterproof now with new roofing felt and metal above.
The important thing is to understand why the studs have rotted. They shouldn't rot. Somehow water has gotten in and the stud has bent. It could very well have leaked in between the paneling.
 
Mountain paneling is quite common and attractive as cladding.
http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/prod/pid-08422120.aspx

Don't paint with a solid color, instead use a glaze as the wood will withstand rot much better since solid color mainly traps the moisture.
 
What strikes me is that it might be a good idea to arrange "knutbräder" in some way, perhaps metal...

It seems like it's the "knuten" that has caused the problems.
 
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