But then.
You have the opportunity to straighten the roof if the rafters have sagged.
This was done on a house in the village, 1.5 stories but a narrow house, and they made sturdy eaves and a thick roof, so the house looks a bit odd, way too big of a hat.
Now I don't know your conditions, so maybe it will turn out well.
Well then.
You have the opportunity to straighten the roof if the rafters have sagged.
This was done on a house in the village, 1.5 stories but a narrow house, and they made substantial eaves and a thick roof so the house looks a bit odd, like it's wearing too big a hat.
Now I don't know your conditions so it might turn out well.
Protte
There will be no eaves at all when it's finished, so no problem with that either...
I am going to change the roof on a Skåne longhouse that is in poor condition. The old trusses will be removed, but the beams running straight through the house will remain. I will build outwards to avoid taking up space inside.
1. The roof will consist of 220+70 mm battens.
Does it matter which batten is innermost or outermost?
2. How do you handle the eaves? Today, the outer roof goes very far down over the outer wall. The idea is to cut it to level with the outer wall and build outward so the eaves stick outwards and not downwards but I’m not sure how it will look on a house like this.
You need to explain better because I don't understand which of the beams should be outwards.
How far down the roof goes depends on the wall height, roof pitch, and how much the roof protrudes.
The question was, does it matter if 220 or 70mm is on the outside.
I've been brainstorming a bit and it seems like the roof trusses end about 20-30cm higher up than the eaves are now. From the trusses, a beam is nailed downwards which becomes the eaves. When I replace the trusses, I won't lower the eaves, instead, they will continue straight out so the roof ends higher up.
You won't get a better explanation at 21:45 after I've had 5 strong beers..
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