Now I need some help here. I'm going to apply new plaster on a basement wall but I'm having so much trouble finding a guide that seems to be the right one.
I've searched online extensively. I've looked in DIY guides (subscriber), checked on YouTube for both "putsa vägg" and "plaster wall". In every video and guide, everyone does it differently, and it's driving me insane
I've seen the following.
What is actually required to get a good result?
Some extra questions...
I've searched online extensively. I've looked in DIY guides (subscriber), checked on YouTube for both "putsa vägg" and "plaster wall". In every video and guide, everyone does it differently, and it's driving me insane
I've seen the following.
- They wet the wall and throw on a layer of plaster, which they then smooth out
- They wet, throw on a very loose mixture, mesh, apply plaster, another layer of plaster which they smooth out
- They wet, mesh, use ribs, apply plaster which they then smooth out.
What is actually required to get a good result?
Some extra questions...
- How long does it take for normal plaster to become hard enough to smooth out?
- How thick should the plaster layer be?
- I'm going to plaster a 7-meter-long wall, can I manage it? No videos show how to do larger walls, only small 2*2m walls.
I bought hooks from biltema and attached rods. Watered thoroughly and had a porridge-like consistency.
I was going to divide the wall into sections and train myself. It takes some time, and if you're mixing with a drill, it's also time-consuming.
I was going to divide the wall into sections and train myself. It takes some time, and if you're mixing with a drill, it's also time-consuming.
Buy a proper machine designed to mix mortar/plaster/self-leveling compound so you don't kill the screwdriver. Affordable options are available at Jula/Biltema or similar.
- How long does it take for normal plaster to become hard enough to smooth out?
- How thick should the plaster layer be?
- I’m going to plaster a 7-meter-long wall, will I have enough time to do it? No videos show how to do larger walls, only small 2*2m walls.
1 Depends on how thick you make it. BUT... since you shouldn't leave in the middle of your plastering, I suggest you check the wall after 45 minutes, an hour, 1.5 hours, etc. This way, you can see how long the wait is required and learn based on how thick it is and how much water you have in it. If you're plastering 7 meters, the "drying time" is relative because when you reach the end, it will have dried where you started. Learning by doing!
2 Also depends on how much you want to fix. My basement walls were very uneven, thin at the top and thicker at the bottom. Apply so that it becomes straight. Check the package for the minimum thickness. If you apply 5mm, the total amount needed will be more. And it becomes heavier in the long run. And more expensive.
3 I wouldn't plaster 7 meters at a time, maybe divide it into 2-3 sections. To have time to mix, apply, scrape off, and not exhaust myself.
Dampen the wall with water, a porridge mixture of plaster/mortar water or primer mixed according to instructions. Throw on plaster from below or alternatively brush it on, preferably use a float, it simplifies considerably. Wait a little and then scrape off. Repeat.
It doesn't get much more fun than that.
It's great that you choose to do it yourself, good attitude. Start small and test as you go, maybe a meter wide from floor to ceiling is enough for practice.
Good luck!
I had 50sqm of basement walls to plaster. Started by myself and it turned out lousy! 😄 It just wasn't my thing....Hired out the job to 2 guys who did it in just over 2 days. Realized my limitations and now I have smooth, nice walls.
What kind of substrate do you have on the plaster? Different materials absorb differently, so it might be wise to prime with something to get even absorption across the entire surface (stones, joints, etc). Is it on the inside of the wall? What are your requirements for evenness, etc.? Are you planning to paint the surface later?
Recently plastered several walls in the basement. We had concrete blocks from the 1930s and some details in leca. Some parts didn't absorb the moisture from the mortar at all, and other parts absorbed it like crazy.
I primed the surface in certain areas to get good adhesion for the mortar (first time doing this). Mixed a thin porridge and brushed it on. Then let it cure for a while. After that, I applied a layer of plaster mortar B (fine) relatively smooth over the surface with a trowel. I found the technique of throwing the mortar tricky, even though it looks easy when professionals do it. Depending on how the surface absorbed, I used a kantiz or a sponge float to finish the surface. I applied between 5-20mm depending on the wall. Where there were edges or seams, it was just a matter of wetting them with a spray bottle and smoothing over. You have to be gentle with the sponge float to avoid tearing the plaster. But you learn over time. If parts come off when you smooth it, just wait a bit and then add more plaster, wet the seam, and use the kantiz over the area to make it good.
Undercoat mortar A helps to create an even absorption over the surface.
Finja has good guides that I looked at beforehand. But the strongest mortar innermost against the wall, you can take that with you.
When I finished the walls, I even managed to plaster a ceiling, but I probably won't do that again.
Addition: I also had one of these http://www.kgcverktyg.se/mur-puts-b...aedor-kanitzer/laettbetongrivbraeda-205x370mm was perfect for evening out a larger area after the plaster had cured for a while.
Recently plastered several walls in the basement. We had concrete blocks from the 1930s and some details in leca. Some parts didn't absorb the moisture from the mortar at all, and other parts absorbed it like crazy.
I primed the surface in certain areas to get good adhesion for the mortar (first time doing this). Mixed a thin porridge and brushed it on. Then let it cure for a while. After that, I applied a layer of plaster mortar B (fine) relatively smooth over the surface with a trowel. I found the technique of throwing the mortar tricky, even though it looks easy when professionals do it. Depending on how the surface absorbed, I used a kantiz or a sponge float to finish the surface. I applied between 5-20mm depending on the wall. Where there were edges or seams, it was just a matter of wetting them with a spray bottle and smoothing over. You have to be gentle with the sponge float to avoid tearing the plaster. But you learn over time. If parts come off when you smooth it, just wait a bit and then add more plaster, wet the seam, and use the kantiz over the area to make it good.
Undercoat mortar A helps to create an even absorption over the surface.
Finja has good guides that I looked at beforehand. But the strongest mortar innermost against the wall, you can take that with you.
When I finished the walls, I even managed to plaster a ceiling, but I probably won't do that again.
Addition: I also had one of these http://www.kgcverktyg.se/mur-puts-b...aedor-kanitzer/laettbetongrivbraeda-205x370mm was perfect for evening out a larger area after the plaster had cured for a while.
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It's concrete block. All old plaster should be knocked off, but on most of the wall, there is no plaster at all.
The wall will be painted later.
What do you think about this then, first I coat the wall, then I mesh it, and then I apply a final layer of plaster which I texture. How does that sound?
The wall will be painted later.
What do you think about this then, first I coat the wall, then I mesh it, and then I apply a final layer of plaster which I texture. How does that sound?
Everything sounds good in theory and looks dead simple in various instructional videos. But in reality, it's completely different. The gravity is three times higher in my basement than anywhere else, pulling all the plaster to the floor within 5 seconds. The wall does not stay still but shakes off the new layer. And the smoothest float in the world inevitably leads to deep grooves and further detachment.