If you set the molding as no 3, you can tilt the saw 45° right/left, but then you will definitely get splinters on the front side.
An alternative there is to use a sacrificial board to saw through.
The best alternative if you don't want to angle the saw, as previously written, is to place the molding on a brace and saw through. Top side towards you and front side facing up.
An alternative there is to use a sacrificial board to saw through.
The best alternative if you don't want to angle the saw, as previously written, is to place the molding on a brace and saw through. Top side towards you and front side facing up.
I cut it according to image 2. Now I have gotten the edges to meet correctly. So thanks for the info there.
But when I then try to get them to sit against the window frame, it's wrong. You kind of have to angle them outwards for them to still fit together. See image 1. They are not flush against the window.
But when I then try to get them to sit against the window frame, it's wrong. You kind of have to angle them outwards for them to still fit together. See image 1. They are not flush against the window.
Do you have any idea on how to get it right and nice?Mazen said:
Yes, that wasn't nice
Are all edges of the strip equally wide/narrow?K Knuten26 said:
Cut off a few small pieces and experiment.
If you want clean cuts on the painted side, you want the teeth to go INTO the wood on that side. If you lay them with the paint facing downwards, the teeth will exit the piece through the paint, leaving splinters there.
What you need is a square piece of wood to place the molding on so you have the paint facing up and towards you, allowing the saw blade's teeth to enter the paint side. (Alternatively, you need a really fine-toothed, good, and sharpened blade and saw very gently).
If you want clean cuts on the painted side, you want the teeth to go INTO the wood on that side. If you lay them with the paint facing downwards, the teeth will exit the piece through the paint, leaving splinters there.
What you need is a square piece of wood to place the molding on so you have the paint facing up and towards you, allowing the saw blade's teeth to enter the paint side. (Alternatively, you need a really fine-toothed, good, and sharpened blade and saw very gently).
First, you have a "ridge" on the corner, the easiest way is to sand it down until even. Block + sandpaper which you pull the moulding against at a right angle..Hammare&Spik said:
Then, unfortunately, you've got splinters/chips in the cut. So my tip is to use a sacrificial board against the fence that you cut through...
Then it looks like the saw doesn't cut exactly at 45 degrees. If the edges end up slightly different in length, it's because you're cutting at the wrong angle. For example, 44 degrees in one direction and 46 in the other. On good machines, you can adjust this so it becomes accurate. On poorer machines, you have to experiment and find out which angle is ACTUALLY 45 degrees.
Hold two pieces in place against a corner, mark the direction in which the moulding will be on the front side of the strips, place them with the mark facing up in the saw, angle to the mark 45 degrees, and you'll probably get it.
Thanks for all the tips! I'll give it another go tomorrow.
Here it looks like you've cut it to fit an outer corner, like a picture frame. The angles should go the other way. For example, look at the lower trim in the lower picture. Then the highest point should be on the right and the lowest on the left.
No, two 45-degree miters meet perfectly in the corner; it's exactly the same principle as a regular window casing.