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17 replies
22k views
17 replies
How to attach noggins?
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Hi!
We're in the process of renovating our kitchen. The walls are opened up to install blocking to support the cabinets. How do you attach blocking so that they can handle the weight? It's a standard stud wall, 60cm on center. Just screw them into the studs with a couple of screws on both sides? Using angle brackets between the stud and blocking doesn't feel right...
Does anyone know how to do it?
We're in the process of renovating our kitchen. The walls are opened up to install blocking to support the cabinets. How do you attach blocking so that they can handle the weight? It's a standard stud wall, 60cm on center. Just screw them into the studs with a couple of screws on both sides? Using angle brackets between the stud and blocking doesn't feel right...
Does anyone know how to do it?
Either you use noggins and fasten them with screws or nails. You don't need to use very long or many screws since they are also held in place by the drywall.
Or if there's space, instead of using noggins you can screw plywood and drywall onto that. Then there's always something to screw into everywhere!
I choose plywood over OSB in the kitchen.
Or if there's space, instead of using noggins you can screw plywood and drywall onto that. Then there's always something to screw into everywhere!
I choose plywood over OSB in the kitchen.
Thanks for the answer! The question is how do you actually go about creating "naggings"? Do you mean that the plywood board completely replaces the noggings? Can they support, for example, the overhead cabinets?verktygsgurun said:Either you create noggings and secure them with screws or nails. No need to use very long or numerous screws as they are also held in place by the gypsum board. Or if there is space, instead of creating noggings, you can screw plywood and gypsum onto it. Then there is always something to screw into! I choose plywood over OSB in the kitchen.
A plywood sheet that is properly fastened and with one (1) wood screw can withstand around 150kg shear load (straight down, typically) as I recall. Two screws attached to the cabinet's fastenings easily handle the load you put into the cabinet.
If you choose plywood, take strips that are at least 50cm high, and fasten with 4 screws in each stud. Otherwise, simply angle-screw two or three screws, or nail when you install.
The videos from this channel might provide some tips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1LFo2D-jss
If you choose plywood, take strips that are at least 50cm high, and fasten with 4 screws in each stud. Otherwise, simply angle-screw two or three screws, or nail when you install.
The videos from this channel might provide some tips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1LFo2D-jss
Didn't mean to cross brace with plywood. I mean you put plywood on the entire wall then plasterboard. There's no point in buying a sheet of plywood to cut it up and put stubs between the studs. Then you might as well use cheap studs instead.corre said:A plywood board that is correctly fastened and with one (1) wood screw can handle around 150kg shear load (straight down) I recall.
Two screws attached to the wall cabinet's fasteners easily handle the load of what you load into the cabinet.
If you choose plywood, take strips that are at least 50cm high, and fasten with 4 screws in each stud.
Otherwise, you can just toe-nail two or three screws, or nail when you cross brace.
The videos from this channel might give some tips.
[link]
I meant unclearly, that one should mount a strip on the kitchen walls at the height that fits for supporting the cabinets, i.e., replace the gypsum as the board there. It might not be possible to change more without damaging the gypsum/tiles or something else.
But my recommendation is just like yours, change everything!
Gypsum over the plywood for tiling later.
But my recommendation is just like yours, change everything!
Gypsum over the plywood for tiling later.
I will be a bit clearer
The idea has been to place noggings between the studs where we need to mount the cabinets. Over that, we would place plywood/osb or something similar and then drywall. But if I understand you correctly, you don't need to place noggings if we use plywood behind the drywall?
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 332 posts
No, inga kortlingar are needed if that is the case. Very practical since you can screw things up everywhere.
Just use the right screw when assembling the kitchen! Make sure the "play" is not too large between the thread and the screw head. For example, a 4 cm long screw generally has more thread and shorter play. So it is better than a 7 cm long screw, where the play is larger more often.
Thomas59
Construction veteran
· Stockholms län
· 3 322 posts
Thomas59
Construction veteran
- Stockholms län
- 3,322 posts
Standard drywall can easily support upper cabinets without any need for noggings/plywood/OSB.
Just use Toggler instead of Molly.
I've tested hanging IKEA upper cabinets (100++ kilos) attached with two Togglers in standard drywall, and the cabinet breaks before the wall mounting fails.
Just use Toggler instead of Molly.
I've tested hanging IKEA upper cabinets (100++ kilos) attached with two Togglers in standard drywall, and the cabinet breaks before the wall mounting fails.
Thanks for all the answers! We went with both suspenders and a belt and placed noggings where the kitchen manufacturer wants them. However, there will also be an OSB board before the plasterboard to be able to put up some shelves, etc.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I read on byggahus about someone who marked on the wall where the upper cabinets would be, cut out a strip of drywall along the entire cabinet row, and inserted a metal strip before putting back the drywall. Then they mounted the upper cabinets with self-drilling mounting screws. I thought it was smart with metal since you don't have to mess with timber in the wall.
Member
· västra götaland
· 212 posts
That's enough. That's how it's usually done on construction sites.