I'm in total panic... It's taking too long and I'm freaking out.
I just don't have the patience to shim all the studs.
Okay...
I have 3 rooms that I want to level out.
A hallway, a living room, and a kitchen.
I've measured and the hallway is the highest point, so I'm choosing to raise the other 2 rooms for an open plan...
I'm trying to shim up stud after stud but it feels like it's taking too long and it's a shame because the studs don't end up as stable since they are initially anchored in concrete slabs and studs that are cast in the concrete.
Given the condition my back is in, I want a faster solution for this.
Should I glue-screw alongside the studs with 45x95, on both sides?!
I'm planning to use 22mm chipboard on this if it matters... I guess that's the standard way to do it.
Ugh... I'm calling it a night... my back is killing me.
I just don't have the patience to shim all the studs.
Okay...
I have 3 rooms that I want to level out.
A hallway, a living room, and a kitchen.
I've measured and the hallway is the highest point, so I'm choosing to raise the other 2 rooms for an open plan...
I'm trying to shim up stud after stud but it feels like it's taking too long and it's a shame because the studs don't end up as stable since they are initially anchored in concrete slabs and studs that are cast in the concrete.
Given the condition my back is in, I want a faster solution for this.
Should I glue-screw alongside the studs with 45x95, on both sides?!
I'm planning to use 22mm chipboard on this if it matters... I guess that's the standard way to do it.
Ugh... I'm calling it a night... my back is killing me.
I don't understand why you're going for the studs? If they're in a good position, it's enough to nail the desired elevation to the stud, that's what I would have done. With a circular saw, you can split a stud to any distance you want and need. If you're worried about it cracking, there is a risk if the distance is too thin, pre-drill in the floorboards and use screws that are the right length.
Or you can just forget about it and ask someone to level the floor for you. That way it will be leveled and your back will be fine. 
It's easier to replace all the battens and do it right from the start, with a circular saw you ensure the desired height if you buy slightly taller battens.M MattiasT said:
Are you assuming that I place the joists tightly against the floor?L Lenza said:
Yes, if there's something I regret about my subflooring (in the basement) it's that it should be rigid and as stable as possible. No stud should be loose, it only leads to floor creaking. Unfortunately, you can't cut corners with this step. You'll have to live with the mess until you have the energy to redo it again.
The floor is so uneven that it's unfortunately not possible to set it flush against the floor... Otherwise, that would have been the best option.
The studs that are there today are fixed and stable, just not level with each other.
I think the solution will be to install studs next to them, screwed and glued. I will reinforce where it's not completely secure today.
I'm not too worried about squeaking since the nailed down floor is now removed... the studs themselves don't squeak much actually...
But gosh, it's so boring to deal with this!! It will be so nice to lay down the floorboards.
The studs that are there today are fixed and stable, just not level with each other.
I think the solution will be to install studs next to them, screwed and glued. I will reinforce where it's not completely secure today.
I'm not too worried about squeaking since the nailed down floor is now removed... the studs themselves don't squeak much actually...
But gosh, it's so boring to deal with this!! It will be so nice to lay down the floorboards.