Hello! We are planning to build an interior wall with Murblock 150x190x590, we want to have a double door of about 130 cm and therefore need something that can support the blocks above the door. The question is, however, how strong do the square tubes need to be for this? Grateful for an answer if anyone has knowledge on this.
Isn't it better to have a lecabalk?Kieron said:
Hello
I would have taken an I-beam.
Or cast a beam and lifted it up or cast it in place.
Or nailed together 3 studs, it depends on what the wall will be covered with.
Casting in place makes it sturdy.
/W
I would have taken an I-beam.
Or cast a beam and lifted it up or cast it in place.
Or nailed together 3 studs, it depends on what the wall will be covered with.
Casting in place makes it sturdy.
/W
There will be some vibrations during door closures, etc.
If it is only the dead weight and assuming you have more than one course of block above your opening, some possible solutions:
The simplest is probably a Lecabalk, but maybe the most expensive. Given your fairly limited span and no additional load, there is the possibility of finding a cheaper option on Blocket or similar. Alternatively, a slightly damaged beam from a construction store that's too long and can be cut down.
Then there is, of course, the possibility to cast your own Lecabalk using either ready-made U-blocks poured with top and bottom reinforcement or notched blocks.
Wood is otherwise the cheapest if you consider both material and labor, but then you have a material over the opening that moves differently than the rest of the Leca wall and becomes unsuitable if you envision, for example, a plastered surface.
With 2-3 courses above the opening, it is otherwise possible to prop up and simply build up with normal blocks. If one is a novice with masonry, it might not be the first thing to attempt.
The simplest is probably a Lecabalk, but maybe the most expensive. Given your fairly limited span and no additional load, there is the possibility of finding a cheaper option on Blocket or similar. Alternatively, a slightly damaged beam from a construction store that's too long and can be cut down.
Then there is, of course, the possibility to cast your own Lecabalk using either ready-made U-blocks poured with top and bottom reinforcement or notched blocks.
Wood is otherwise the cheapest if you consider both material and labor, but then you have a material over the opening that moves differently than the rest of the Leca wall and becomes unsuitable if you envision, for example, a plastered surface.
With 2-3 courses above the opening, it is otherwise possible to prop up and simply build up with normal blocks. If one is a novice with masonry, it might not be the first thing to attempt.