http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/715/vgg.gif/I am in the process of installing baseboards and crown moldings. I have a problem where I almost always have to adjust the angles along the corners. I thought cutting at 45 degrees would work, but in some cases, I need to cut the baseboard/molding at a 42-44 degree angle.
The problem is both irritating and not economically sustainable as I sometimes have to cut new pieces and have to throw away lengths when I can't use them elsewhere in the room. So the question is, how should I think when cutting with the miter saw?
As the picture shows, the room does not seem quite rectangular, and some walls are not perfectly straight. If the wall is 45 degrees where I'm laying the baseboard and the opposing baseboard's wall is 41 degrees, should I cut the baseboard 41+41? Or is there some calculation so the angle should be, for example, 43 degrees?
Grateful for tips!
I usually try with a piece of board. I buy a 22x70 plank (which is enough for one room) and make template pieces 30 - 40 cm long, making new small angle changes with the saw until it looks right, even an error of half a degree is noticeable.
When it comes to ceiling moldings, like concave moldings and the like, I learned a trick from a link here on the forum. It's been a few years, so I can't find it again. But in inner corners, you put up one molding straight without mitering it. Then you make a 45-degree miter cut on the other one. It can't be placed as the back side sticks out and touches the first molding. Then you take a coping saw and cut so that you just follow the edge where the saw cut lies. It's surprisingly easy (with a good coping saw, made the mistake of choosing a Chinese variant over a Bacho one initially). And it turns out well. Try with a few scraps the first time.
When it comes to ceiling moldings, like concave moldings and the like, I learned a trick from a link here on the forum. It's been a few years, so I can't find it again. But in inner corners, you put up one molding straight without mitering it. Then you make a 45-degree miter cut on the other one. It can't be placed as the back side sticks out and touches the first molding. Then you take a coping saw and cut so that you just follow the edge where the saw cut lies. It's surprisingly easy (with a good coping saw, made the mistake of choosing a Chinese variant over a Bacho one initially). And it turns out well. Try with a few scraps the first time.
I myself have bought one of these and think it is absolutely excellent http://www.jula.se/geringsvinkel-270-mm-159001
What Hempularen means is called förkroppa lists, you can read here about how to proceed with this when it comes to crown moldings http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html and here a page concerning baseboards http://callerobertsson.blogspot.com/2009/03/forkroppsligen.html
What Hempularen means is called förkroppa lists, you can read here about how to proceed with this when it comes to crown moldings http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html and here a page concerning baseboards http://callerobertsson.blogspot.com/2009/03/forkroppsligen.html
A bevel is included in every carpenter's toolbox... and this is what it actually looks like... http://www.clasohlson.se/Siteseeker/Search_o.aspx?q=smygvinkel
Last edited:
Hemmanisse, I don't even understand what you mean when you say that one wall is 45 and the opposing one is 41. In relation to what?
I usually measure the inner corner with the angle gauge and divide by two - if it's 88 degrees, I cut each piece at 44. But to get it really neat without latex putty and such, the only sure way is to cut test pieces as Hempularen suggests.
Ola - I don't think it's quite correct to call that method "förkroppning" although I've noticed that many do. Förkroppning is something you do to get a neat finish when a piece, for some reason, has to end "open," i.e., not in a corner. The technique is shown in images 19 and 20 on the hvilaro page you linked to.
I usually measure the inner corner with the angle gauge and divide by two - if it's 88 degrees, I cut each piece at 44. But to get it really neat without latex putty and such, the only sure way is to cut test pieces as Hempularen suggests.
Ola - I don't think it's quite correct to call that method "förkroppning" although I've noticed that many do. Förkroppning is something you do to get a neat finish when a piece, for some reason, has to end "open," i.e., not in a corner. The technique is shown in images 19 and 20 on the hvilaro page you linked to.
Well, there you go, I've learned something new today tooFarzan said:
Luckily, I'm not alone in getting it wrong, thanks for the lesson. But what is the other method called, for joining the lists in the corners?I seem to recall that on the American site I read about the method, they referred to the whole process of generating lists, whether it was inner or outer corners, as "cropping". It took a while before I (think) understood what they meant by that.
Hm, wasn't it This Old House that has been linked to in old threads about that technique?
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214981,00.html
There they refer to the step where you cut away the beveled edge as "coping," is that perhaps what you were thinking of?
And I also can't think of any Swedish name for that technique.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214981,00.html
There they refer to the step where you cut away the beveled edge as "coping," is that perhaps what you were thinking of?
And I also can't think of any Swedish name for that technique.
F Farzan said: